It is recommended to mark on the mainsail halyard where "reef 1" and where "reef 2" has
to be locked by the halyard stopper.
When reefing the mainsail, the mainsail halyard school be released so when the reefing
process is done, the reefing blocks by the luff are approx. 15 cm = 6" above the boom.
Check that the reefing block at the luff is not chafing the sail. Normally, it does not, but
sometimes you have to go up and "arrange" the sail at the luff.
For long distance sailing, we recommend preparing a reefing line from the third optional
reef down to second reef, so you easier can control the third reef by hand. When using the
third reef, the conditions are of course not the easiest. Third reef position is not standard.
Avoid reefing downwind, as the mainsail can be blown past and behind the side stays, and
brake the battens. Of course, if there is no other way out, you can do it.
MAIN SAIL:
The main needs much more trimming than a monohull, especially on the main sheet as the
boat has many speed potentials within few wind forces. This calls for concentrated trimming
if you want maximum speed and fun with your boat. Generally the leach seen from the boom
end to the mast top must be almost straight: the roach must absolutely not ”fall out” or
twist, unless the boat is overpowered. Trimming the main in a breeze takes great effort.
This DF28 model has no kicker and no traveller, instead there is a “preventer or boom wang”
available, one on each side and this is normally not used sailing upwind. BUT – as soon as
you bear off the wind it is always recommended to use the preventer system to better
control the top of the sail – very important for speed.
The preventer also helps preventing that the mainsail battens are chafing too hard on the
leeward side stay.
When jibing in stronger winds – ALWAYS remember to remove the leeward preventer first
before jibing.
When jibing in stronger winds, always pull in the slack in the mainsheet quickly to prevent
damaging the mainsail and battens on the side stays.
TACKING
When tacking the boat, it sometimes helps to ease off the main sheet a little (especially in
strong winds and waves). If you stall the boat after a tack it also helps to ease the main sail
until the boat builds up speed again. If the boat starts to go backwards after a tack, then
immediately turn the tiller reverse to lee, this helps the bow to bear off the wind and get
wind into the sails again. Do not turn the rudder to ”normal” again until the boat starts
moving forward again.
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