•
Press the up arrow again will show r2. This is the differential for SP2. This can be used for
your cooling devices, for example; a water solenoid that controls cold water flow into your
chilling coil or plate chiller. Change the settings in the same way as above.
•
Press the up arrow repeatedly until you see A6 on the display. This is the Alarm probe
selector. I’m not a fan of using this feature and I shut it off. Change this setting to Ano. Press
the up arrow again and you see A7. This is the Alarm probe 2 selector. I also shut this off.
•
Press the up arrow a few more times and you’ll see C1 on the display. This changes the
operational direction of relay 1. I change this to inv.
•
And finally, press up arrow some more times until you see PO on the display. This is the
temperature units selector. Change as you please. Leave the controller for around 30
seconds and it will return to the main display.
Now your controller is ready for you to begin brewing. You just need to input your mash
temperature, and your fermentation temperature, if this applies to you.
Set Temperature:
press set once and out 1 will be flashing. Use the arrows to set your temperature and either
leave the controller for 30 seconds, or press set. When you press set, Out 2 begins flashing.
This is for you to set your fermentation or yeast pitching temperature. Or your fridge
temperature!
Now all you need to do is insert the probe into your thermowell, and get started.
Because of power limitations using a 120V brewing element, it isn’t advised
to brew and ferment at the same time. You can however, use a heater and
control a refrigeration device device at the same time, as long as you aren’t
exceeding the circuit limitations. The maximum amperage permitted on the
cooling output is 8A. The maximum for the heating output is 15A or 1650W.
Do not exceed this value as the internal contact isn’t designed for a heavier
load and you will damage your device.
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