Ford 1956 - Page 8

Chapter
1
General
Engine
Overhaul,
Inspection,
and
Repair
insert
a
piece of
proper
sized
metal
rod
so it
protrudes
from
the
insulator.
With
the
ignition
on
and
the starter
turning
the
engine
over,
hold
the
end
of
the
rod
approximately
3/16
inch
from
the
block.
CAUTION:
On
Fordomatic
equipped
cars,
make
sure
the
selector
lever
is
in
"N."
Ii
there
is
no
spark,
or
if
there
is
a
weak
spark,
follow
steps
"a"
or
"b"
whichever
is
applicable.
If
there
is
a
good
spark,
proceed with
step
"c."
(a)
No
Spark.
Follow the
steps
below
to
determine
the
cause,
and
make
the
necessary
repairs or
replace
ments.
(
1
)
Pull
the
coil
wire from
the
top
of
the
distributor.
Hold
the wire
316
inch
from
the
cylinder
head,
and
with
the
ignition
on
and
the
engine
turning
over,
check
for
a
spark.
CAUTION: On
Fordomatic
equipped
cars,
make
sure
the
selector
lever
is in
"/V."
If
a
good
spark
is
obtained,
the
trouble
lies
in
either
the
distributor
cap,
rotor,
or spark
plug
wires.
Make
sure
these
components
are
clean,
dry,
and not
defective.
Make repairs
or
replacements
as
necessary.
(2)
If
there
was
no
spark in
(1),
clean
the coil
tower
socket,
or
replace
the
high tension
wire
between
the
coil
and
distributor,
then
repeat
the
check.
If
a
weak
spark
exists,
the
points
are
probably
arcing.
Test the
condenser
and
replace it
if
necessary. Adjust
the
points.
If
a weak
spark
persists,
test the
coil,
and replace it
if
necessary.
(3)
If
there was
no
spark in
(2),
remove
the dis
tributor
cap,
and
see
if
the
points
are
"breaking"
and
if an
electrical spark
occurs
at the points.
Adjust or
replace
the
points as
necessary.
If there
is a
spark
at
the
points;
install a
"jumper"
between
the
"DIST"
terminal
of
the
coil and the
distributor,
then
check for
a
spark
at the points.
If
there
is
a
spark,
replace
the
coil
to
distributor
primary
wire.
If there
is
no
spark,
crank
the
engine
until
the
points are
closed,
then
install
a
"jumper"
on
one
of
the
primary
coil
terminals and
check
for a
spark at
the
other
terminal. Replace
the coil
if
there
is
now a
spark.
If there
is
no
spark,
install
a
"jumper"
between
the
battery
and
the
battery
terminal
of the
coil,
then
check
for a
spark
at
the
points.
If
a
spark
exists,
the
ignition
switch or
switch
to
coil
wiring
is
defective
and
must
be
repaired
or replaced.
(b)
Weak
Spark.
Perform
the
following
checks
in
the
order
listed:
(
1
)
The
battery
may
be
weak.
Test the
battery,
then
charge,
or
replace
it
if
necessary.
(2)
Remove the
distributor
cap,
and
adjust, clean,
or
replace
the
points
as
necessary.
Severely
pitted points
usually
indicate
that
the voltage
regulator
is
improperly
set
or
the
condenser is
faulty.
(3)
Check
the
condition
of the
rotor,
distributor
cap,
and
plug
wires.
The
wires
must
be
clean,
dry,
and
fully
seated
in
the terminals.
Replace
any
damaged
or
cor
roded
wires.
(4)
If the
weak
spark
persists,
test
the
coil,
and re
place it
if necessary.
(c)
Good Spark.
If there is a good
spark,
perform
the
following
fuel
system checks
in the
order given.
(1)
Check
the
fuel
supply
at the
fuel
tank.
(2)
Check
to see
if fuel
is
reaching
the carburetor.
Remove
the
air
cleaner,
and
look
down
the
carburetor
throat
while
working
the throttle
by
hand
several
times.
Each time the throttle
is
actuated,
fuel
should
spurt
from
the
accelerator
pump
discharge
nozzle.
If
there is
fuel
at
this
point,
the engine
is
probably
flooded
or
there
is
water in
the
fuel
system.
If
no
fuel
is
observed
at
this
point,
disconnect the
carburetor
inlet
line
at the
carburetor.
Using
a suitable
container
to
catch
the
fuel,
crank
the engine to
see
if fuel is
reaching
the inlet
fitting.
If
fuel is
reaching
the inlet
fitting,
the
trouble
is in the
carburetor.
Repair
the
carburetor as necessary.
If no
fuel is
reaching
the
inlet
fitting,
the
trouble is
in
the
fuel
pump
or
the fuel
pump
inlet
line
is
clogged.
NOTE:
Check
the flexible
fuel
pump
inlet line
for a
collapsed
condition.
Remove the fuel tank
filler
cap,
then
disconnect the
fuel
pump
inlet
line at
the pump. Blow air
into the
line
to remove
any
obstructions. Connect
the
line and
try
to
start the engine.
If
the
engine does
not
start,
check
the
fuel
pump
pressure,
then
repair or replace the
pump
as necessary.
(3)
ENGINE
STARTS BUT
FAILS
TO KEEP RUN
NING.
Check
the
fuel system
first.
The
ignition system
sometimes
can
cause
trouble,
but it is
usually
after the
engine
has
run
for
some
time
and
is at
operating
temperature.
(a)
Check
the fuel
supply
at the tank.
(b)
Try
to start
the
engine. If
the engine will oper
ate
with
constant
foot
throttle,
adjust
the
idle
speed
and check
the choke
adjustment.
If
it will not
operate
with
constant foot
throttle,
check
the fuel
system
as
outlined
in
(2)
(c).
(c)
If
the fuel system
is
operating correctly
and
the
engine still
stalls,
it
may
be
due
to
the coil or
condenser
breaking
down
under
operating
temperature.
Check
these
components,
and
replace
them
as necessary.
(4)
ENGINE
CONTINUALLY
MISSES
AT
IDLE.
When the
engine
continually
misses
on
the
same
cylin
ders,
the
fault
generally
lies in
the ignition
system.
(a)
Isolate
the
miss
by
pulling
one
spark
plug
cable
at
a
time
from
the
plugs.
Remove
the
plugs,
then
clean,
inspect,
and adjust them.
Replace those
that
are
badly
fouled or burned.
(b)
Check
the
spark
plug
wires
for
signs of
deteriora
tion
and
corrosion
and
replace them
as
necessary.
(c)
Remove the distributor
cap
and
rotor,
then
clean,
inspect,
and replace
them
as
necessary.