Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.
Our advice regarding spare part sources is
as follows.
Officially-appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death.
Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.
When ordering spare parts it is essential to
provide the full details of your car. It will be
necessary to quote the commission and car
numbers on early models, or the vehicle
identification (VIN) number on later models.
When ordering parts for the engine,
transmission unit or body it will also be
necessary to supply these numbers.
The commission number (early models) is
stamped on a plate fixed to the bonnet
locking platform.
The car number (early models) is located on
a plate mounted adjacent to the commission
number.
The vehicle identification number (later
models) is stamped on a plate attached to the
right-hand inner wing valance.
The engine number is stamped on the
cylinder block or on a metal plate fixed to the
right-hand side of the cylinder block.
The transmission casing assembly number
is stamped on a facing provided on the
casting just below the starter motor.
The body number is stamped on a metal
plate fixed to the bonnet locking platform.
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands.
The reinforced side members of the front
and rear subframes should be used as jacking
points for raising one side of the car at the
front or rear. A beam may be placed
transversely under the front and rear
subframes, with the jack head positioned
centrally under it, if it is wished to raise the
complete front or rear of the car. Take care
not to damage the exhaust system or any
pipes or hoses if this method is being used.
The side-members of the subframes should
also be used as axle stand support points.
Never work under, around, or near a raised
vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or
optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette
unit will not function until the correct security
code has been entered. Therefore, if you do
not know the correct security code for the
radio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of
the battery terminals, or remove the
radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.
To enter the correct security code, follow
the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.
If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will
become locked, and cannot be operated.
If this happens, or if the security code is lost
or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover
dealer.
On later models equipped with a factory
fitted anti-theft alarm system, the radio signal
code is electronically changed each time the
alarm handset is used. If the handset battery
is replaced or the car battery disconnected,
the signal sequence will be lost. To restore
synchronisation, hold the handset close to the
car and press the handset LOCK button four
times in quick succession.
Buying spare parts REF•3
REF
Vehicle identification
Jacking and vehicle support
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
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