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MULTIPLEX modell DG 300 Elan - Page 32

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using a
tape with absolutely
straight
edges.
Lightly sand
the edge
t0
be
painted,
again using
400
grade
abrasive
paper.
Paint
the edge' and
remove
the tape when
the
paint
is
dry.
The same
procedure
is followed
l0r all other
painted
areas of decoration
on lhe
m0del.
The
wings and
tail surfaces can
either be
tissue-covered
or covered
with iron-on
film. Before
covering,
rub down
the wings and
tail
surtaces
completely
smooth, and
fill any
irregularities.
Use
400-
grade
abrasive
paper
lor final rubbing down.
Remove
all traces
ol
sanding
dust
with a brush.
Film covefing
lf the
wings and tail surfaces
are to be covered
with iron-on
film, then
the wooden surfaces
must not be
primed
or sealed
beforehand.
AII
surfaces
to come
into
contact
with the
film
should
be
rubbed down
with 400-grade abrasive
paper,
and
all traces ol sanding
dust
removed.
Apply the
lilm following the instructions
supplied
with the
material.
The
pronounced
undercamber'ol
the wing section
means
that special attention
must be
paid
to the underside
0f the
wings.
Warm up
the film with a
heat
gun,
and
rub the lilm down on
the wo0d
while still
hot, using
a
soft
woollen cloth.
Start in the
middle of the
undercambered
portion
and
work outwards.
When applying lilm, bear
in mind
that the
foam core under
the
skin
can be damaged
if the
lemDerature
rises
above
about 60'C,
so do not
leave the iron in one
position
for too long.
Attaching the
ailelons and elevalol
When
the wings, ailerons, elevator
and tailplane
have been completed
and covered,
the ailerons
and elevator can
be
permanently
attached
using
adhesive
tape.
Ailerons:
Fold the aileron
right up,
with the
pushrod
disconnected
lrom
the
horn. In
this
position
the aileron
will rest
inverted llat 0n
the top
surface
0l
the wing. Check
that the aileron
is exactly central
in its
recess, and
apply a strip
of hinge tape along
the
inside of the
wing/aileron
joint.
Cut oll
lhe excess. Take care
that there
is no
gap
between
aileron
and wing.
Now swing
the aileron down
into its
normal
position,
and check
that it
moves
freely up and
down. lilove
the aileron down
to its bottom
position,
taking
care not to unstick
the tape on
the inside of
the hinge
line. Now apply
a second strip
ol tape along
the top of
the wing, taking
care
that the dividing
line between
wing and aileron
is exactly central
along
the length of
the tape.
lf the aileron
is
now moved right up
and down several
times,
the two
strips
0f tape
\l\,ill
join
in the
middle, torming a
perfectly
sealed ailer0n
hinge. The one
pre-requisite
for this,
however, is that
you
have
followed
the building
instructions
religiously, and
that the mating
edges
ol wing and aileron
are
perfectly
sharp and straight.
Connect
the
threaded
pushrod
and
glue
the
pushrod
guide
46 into
the
slot
in the
wing. Apply one
small drop of
5-minute epoxy
t0 the bent
end of the
aileron
0ushrod
t0 secure
it.
Attach
the elevator
to the tailolane
in a similar
manner, using adhesive
tape
as the
hinge.
Applying
lhe tlanslets
Please
follow the instructions
su0olied
with the transfers.
Installing
the conllol
system
The bowden
cable outers
already in
place
in the fuselage
usually
have
to be shortened
at
the cockpit end.
ll
you
reler
to the
plan,
you
will see
that they
have t0 reach as
far as the
main former
10.
Cut
through
the
bowden
cables
with a sharp
knile.
Drill 3
m.m. 0 holes
where marked
in the bowden cable
supports
11
and
thread the suoDorts
onto
the bowden cable
outers.
Fix the servos
in
the fuselage.
Screw the
quicklinks
20
about
half-way
0nt0 the
threaded
portion
of
the threaded couplers
21. Connect
the
quicklinks
to
the servo output
discs,
relerring t0 the drawing
for
the correct
take-ofl
points.
The
rudder linkage
is completed
tirst. Set
the
rudder and
the rudder
servo
to neutral.
Mark the correct
length
0f the
rudder
pushrod
with a
felt-tip
pen;
snip off
the steel
rod, and de-burr
the cut
end.
Roughen
up the end
of the steel
wire, bend
it
into a slight
"S"
shape
and oush
it into
the threaded
coupler.
Check again
that
the rod is the
correct
length.
Disconnect
the
quicklink,
unscrew
the
threaded coup-
ler and solder
it to
the steel
rod. When soldering,
cover
the servos
with
a cloth
or
paper
to
protect
them.
Fit the
quicklink
again,
and connect
it to the servo
output
disc The
bowden
cable
support
11 can now be
glued
to the mdn
former
'10.
Check
that the bowden
cable has as
straight
a run as
possible
Add
a
further scrap
wood support
between
the outer
tube and
the
fuselage
side.
The elevator
linkage
is made up
next.
Repeat the
procedure
used
lor
the rudder,
not forgetting
the additional
scrap
wood support.
Check
the neutral
position
ol
the control surfaces,
the control surface
throws,
and
their lreedom
ot
movement. Check
that the surtaces
move
in the
correct
sense.
The connections
t0 the aileron
and airbrake
servos are
completed
in a
similar
manner.
Check again
that the
control surface
movements
are
as stated.
The linkages
to all
the control surlaces,
and
especially
that to the
airbrakes.
should
now be checked
and adjusted
to ensure
that
in
each
case the servo
is able
to move
to its
tull
extent
without being
mechanically
obstructed
at either end-poinl
Stalled
servos
consume
a very
high current,
and thus
flatten the
receiver battery
very
quickly.
The receiver battery
is fitted
into the extreme
nose, and
packed
round
with loam
rubber. The battery
should
have a capacity
of around
1200
mAh.
The receiver
is lixed
to the servo
plate
9
with double-sided
foam tape
(servo
tape).
The receiver
aerial can
be routed outside
the fuselage
(not
forgelting
some
form of strain
relief), or alternatively
stretched
out inside
the
luselage.
In the latter
case slide
the aerial
into a
plastic
tube
(such
as
a
bowden
cable oute0,
and
leave this
tube l00se
in the fuselage 0n
no
account
use a
metal
tube. The aerial
tube is
not included
in the kit
Mount
the 0N/0FF
switch
inside the fuselage
0n
the
servo
plate
9. The
canopy
is removed
to switch
the system
0n or off.
Balancing
Before
the lirst
llight of the
DG 300
the Centre of
Gravity must
be
checked
and
corrected. Slight
constructional
inaccuracies,
which are
unavoidable
in
model building, can
lead
to the Centre
of Gravity
marked on
the
plan
not being exactly
correct.
For
this reason the
model
is initially balanced
at an average
CG
position,
which
will
always
be adequate
for test-flying
the model.
The optimum
CG
position
for
your
particular
model
is then established
during
the
test-flying
procedure.
Even a
very
slight
variation in
the wing sweep
angle
will alter
the CG
position.
The average
CG
position
lor
the DG
300 coincides
with
the wing
ioiner
blade
location.
Mark the CG
Dosition
on the underside
of
the wing
root, using a
felt-tip
pen.
The
model must be
fully equipped
with
its R/C equipment
prior
to balanc-
ing; do not
for-get the canopy.
The model
can simply
be balanced
on
the fingertips;
this is
quite
accurate
enough
initially.
Add lead ballast
to the
nose of the
luselage
until the
model
hangs horizontal,
with
the nose
inclined slightly
downward.
Depending on construction
and B/C equipment
used,
you
may
need to add
100 to 300
g.
of
lead. Secure
the ballast
with foam
rubber, but do
not
glue
it in
place yet.
Flying wilh ballast
Two ballast
chambers
are
incorporated
into the
wings,
which can
accept ballast
in the
form of lead
rods
(Order
N0.71
2760)