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Rogers TredSled - Page 15

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14
Adjusting the Brake
Adjusting the BrakeAdjusting the Brake
Adjusting the Brake
If you are experiencing problems with the TredSled’s brake system (not being able to tighten or loosen the
brake to allow free running or a standing belt), follow these instructions.
1) Check gap between roller and side frame.
a) The inner and outer positioning spacers should hold the roller in place during shipping and
installation, but sometimes when the machine is being transported through doorways it is put on its side
which in turn puts a large amount of force on the roller (models made before January 2012 do not have
positioning spacers). If the roller is centered, skip to step 2 (see Section B). If not continue to part b.
b) If the roller has moved, the brake rotor can rub on the brake caliper causing the brake to not function
properly. If the roller is not centered you must take the cover off the opposite side. Here you will see the
bearing that holds the roller. On the bearing there is an adjustment screw. Loosen up the screw until
you can slide the roller. From here you will adjust the roller so there is approximately ¼ inch on both
sides between the roller and the side frames. After moving the roller you must then re-tighten the
adjustment screw.
2) Check caliper for binding.
a) The brake caliper lever arm should be bolted on so that the two allen bolts are at the top and bottom
holes with the lever arm pointing straight down (see Detail A). When the lever arm is pointing straight
down the brake is at minimum resistance. The brake caliper should float in the mounting bracket when
at minimum resistance (there should be a slight side to side movement). If there is slight movement,
skip to step 3. If there isn’t movement continue to part b.
b) If there is no free movement, please verify that the outer brake pad (movable) is not against the
brake rotor by pressing on the outer face of the brake caliper lever arm. There is a light spring behind
the lever arm assembly and you should be able to compress it slightly if the brake pad is not against the
rotor. If you cannot compress the spring slightly then the outer pad is against the rotor and you must try
to reduce the brake sensitivity. Remove the cotter pin from the brake caliper assembly and rotate the
castle nut one turn counter clockwise to loosen it. Recheck to see if the caliper assembly is now
floating. This can be repeated again but you must keep track of how many turns it has been adjusted
so you can return it later. If one turn or less corrects the problem reinstall the cotter pin and verify both
minimum and maximum brake resistance settings. If there is still no brake caliper movement and the
lever arm can be compressed slightly then the brake caliper may be rubbing against the back (fixed)
brake pad. To correct this proceed to step 3.
3) Correct position of Brake Rotor
Before beginning this step make sure roller is not contacting either of the side frames.
a) IMPORTANT: Using a sharpie marker make a line around the shaft at the face or inside the
bore of the taper lock bushing to provide a reference mark.
Locate the three bolts that retain the brake rotor taper lock bushing and remove them (see Detail A).
Now take three 1/4in-20 bolts into the threaded holes adjacent to the original bolt positions and tighten
them slightly until you feel the taper lock bushing release. If you use the same bolts that you removed
from the taper lock be sure to not crank on them to the point that they mushroom or strip the threads.
Move the brake rotor assembly towards you 1/8 inch (this will just about cover the reference mark if it
was made with a new “sharp” marker). Recheck for movement in the caliper assembly, it should now be
loose. If it is still not loose then move the rotor another 1/8 inch towards the outside of the machine.
Recheck for movement in the caliper assembly, it should now be loose. Remove the bolts from the taper
lock bushing and thread them into the original mounting holes. Lightly and evenly tighten the bolts until
they are all against the front surface and then start using a pattern moving from one bolt to the next as
you evenly tighten the taper lock bushing. This is important because you need to keep the brake rotor
running true so the brake system doesn’t pulsate when applied. The brake rotor will move outward
slightly as it is tightened so you may possibly need to repeat this process if it was moved too far the first
time. Recheck for movement in the caliper assembly, it should still be loose.