First 50 hours- Grease the out drive assembly and swivel points. (see instructions below)
Every 100 hours or once per year- Grease the drive assembly.
The drive tube is filled with grease from the factory. In addition to the above lubrication schedule, every
two years or 200 hours, remove the propeller and lower bearing cap. (Note: the bearing cap is left-hand
threaded. Turn clockwise to loosen.)
Throttle: Lubricate the throttle cable with WD-40 or non-freeze silicone available at most Napa stores. Coat
the throttle cable with grease near the engine and throttle cable and deters freezing. Elevate the throttle
cable near the throttle by securing with two wire ties. The elevated cable will keep water from entering.
This is very important.
Engine oil and filter should be replaced according to the engine manufacture’s instructions. Change the oil
and filter at the end of the season. Acids accumulate in the oil and if not drained, can cause internal pitting
if left in the crankcase for extended periods. Cover the engine when in storage. This keeps the engine,
wiring and mechanical parts dry, and prevents oxidation and corrosion.
IF YOU OPERATE IN SALT WATER; WASH DOWN THE DRIVE AND ENGINE AFTER EVERY
TRIP.
The frame is coated with a marine grade powder coating and easily cleaned with soap and water. If you use
a high-pressure washer, do not direct the spray at any area containing a seal such as the propeller, upper
drive between engine and out drive, throttle or switches. The pressure will drive dirt and grime into the
seals and parts and cause premature failure.
Storage: At the end of the season, and for extended periods of storage beyond one month, the fuel should be
run out of the carburetor, and treated with a gas stabilizer. THE MOST COMMON CARBURETOR
PROBLEMS OCCUR BECAUSE THIS SIMPLE PROCEDURE ISN’T FOLLOWED. NOTE. ALL
ENGINE MANUFACTURERS DO NOT WARRANTY FUEL RELATED PROBLEMS. USE A GOOD
GRADE OF FUEL, 87 OCTANE OR BETTER.
Ensure the vent screw located on the fuel gas cap is open. If closed, pressure can build which causes fuel to
be pushed through the carburetor into the crankcase. Over time, this dilutes the oil and can cause engine
failure. Do not add a fuel tank quick disconnect, which can restrict fuel and cause poor top end
performance. You may add a primer bulb but turn the ignition switch on before pumping to avoid damaging
the carburetor electronic shut off valve.
PROPELLER INSPECTION AND REMOVAL
Notice: The hex prop can be at times difficult to remove. Do not use excessive force to remove the
propeller. Tap slightly with a block of wood or hammer, and you can heat to 200 degrees with propane
torch. Do not pry with a screw driver because this can cause drive damage. If it does not budge, call us for
a hex prop removal tool.
CAUTION- PROPELLER CONDITION: The most common reason for drive failure is a damaged
propeller. Worn or bent props will decrease performance, and can also damage the drive unit. Your prop is
12.25” new. If 11 ½ or smaller, replace the propeller for best performance. Replace and or repair the
propeller when it shows signs of damage or excessive wear. Lack of power or reduced thrust in mud is an
indication of prop wear. We do not straighten or rebuild props. Some shops do, we suggest you use factory
fresh new propellers.
-Check the prop by first warming the engine, then run the engine at full speed out of water and observe the
skeg. BE SAFE AND CAREFUL. If it vibrates excessively, or turns into a blur, replace the prop
immediately to prevent drive and frame damage. If the problem persists with a new propeller, you may
have a bent drive shaft. Do not run without further service. Check the shaft when you remove the
propeller. Again, BE CAREFUL. Run the engine at an idle checking the shaft for straightness. notice the
small gap between the bearing cap and drive shaft. Watch the shaft as it rotates. If the shaft is bent, it will
wobble from side to side. If bent, have the drive inspected by a service center and replaced immediately.
NOTE: BENT DRIVE SHAFTS ARE CAUSED BY SEVERE IMPACTS AND NOT COVERED BY
WARRANTY.
-Be careful when removing a worn prop, the edges can be very sharp.
-Clean the hex shaft or threads with a wire brush and coat with marine grease or never seize prior to
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