IMPORTANT: Ifill!Y wear or sign of broken strands is found on the running or standing
rigging, it is time to replace that part. Using your boat when the rigging
is worn could cause the rigging to fail when you least expect it.
FITTINGS:
Marine fittings today need minimal maintenance. Deck hardware should be hosed down with
freshwater after each sail in salt water. Stainless steel fittings such as pulpits and lifeline
stanchions should be cleaned and waxed periodically to maintain their appearance. Winches
require occasional cleaning and lubrication. Where possible, a maintenance brochure for your
winches has been included in this manual. Masthead fittings, halyard sheaves, etc., should be
inspected, cleaned and lubricated periodically. Keep your equipment clean of dirt and salt.
SPARS:
Like all other fittings, the mast and boom suffer from salt water, air and spray. These should be
kept waxed where possible, and at least always hosed down with fresh water. Always see that the
halyards are tied off away from the mast. This will eliminate slapping in the wind, and
subsequent marking of the mast. Find a high pressure nozzle and shoot fresh water to the top of
the mast and spreaders. This will help keep your sails clean, too, as they rub on the mast and
spreaders.
SAIL MAINTENACE:
Your sails should be protected from chafmg. This can be done by either padding the areas that
touch the sail or by having your sailmaker attach chafe patches to the sails themselves.
You should check your sails frequently for any signs of wear and have any tears or frayed stitches
repaired immediately.
Sails should never be stored in the sun because they are susceptible to decay through exposure to
too much ultraviolet light. Always keep your sails covered when they are not is use.
Sails should never be put away wet. If they are wet after sailing, leave them in loose bundles and
dry them at your first opportunity.
For most problems, such as common dirt, dried or caked salt, etc., try scrubbing the surface with
a soft bristled brush and liquid detergent. Avoid harsh powder detergents and stiff brushes, as
they may damage the finish or stitching. This approach should work nicely for most
applications. More severe stains can be taken care of by the following:
BLOOD:
IMPORTANT: FOR WHITE SAILS ONLY
Soak the stained portion for 10 to 20 minutes in a solution of bleach (Clorox)
and warm water. Generally 10 parts water to 1 part bleach. Scrub and repeat
if necessary. Rinse thoroughly, particularly nylon, and dry thoroughly.
OIL. GREASE TAR. WAX: Warm water, soap and elbow grease seem to be effective. On hard
stains, proprietary stain remover and dry cleaning fluids should do the trick.
Be careful to remove all fluids, as they can soften the various resinated coatings.
RUST AND METALLIC STAINS: These types of stains are very often the most frustrating and
difficult to remove. First scrub with soap and water, and apply acetone,
M.E.K., or alcohol. As a last resort, you might try a diluted mixture (5%) of
Oxalic soaked for 10 to 15 minutes. Hydrochloric Acid, 2 parts to 100 in
warm water, will also work.
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