Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, LLC., is prohibited.
Rev D • 5/18/2023 Page - 2 of 2 QF-358
7. Measure the DVA across the Stator’s Yellow battery charge wires, while connected to the Rectifier. At idle the DVA will normally
between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Rectifier and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50 DVA at idle. If the
voltage is low, the Stator is possibly faulty. Perform a visual of the Stator for browning and varnish dripping. These are signs that the
Stator has overheated. If the visual inspection shows any of these signs, replace the Stator.
BATTERY NOT CHARGING:
1. Clean and service the battery cable connections (both on the engine and on the battery). Stainless hex nuts and lock washers are
recommended to connect the cables to the battery.
2. Charge and load test the battery.
3. Check the voltage on the Red wire while the engine is running, you should see the same voltage as the battery.
4. Verify that the Red wire is connected to 12 VDC from the battery.
5. Remove the flywheel and inspect the heavy battery charge windings for discoloration. If the windings are a dark color, replace the
Stator. Typical resistance readings of the Stator’s battery charging circuit should measure less than 2 Ω.
MAXIMUM OUTPUT TEST:
1. Install an ammeter capable of reading at least 10 Amps between the Red wire and the starter solenoid battery post.
2. Connect a load bank to the battery.
3. In the water or on a Dynamometer, start the engine and bring the RPM up to approximately 4500 RPM in gear.
4. Turn on the load bank switches to increase the battery load to equal 10 Amps.
5. Check the ammeter.
6. If the amperage is low,
(a) Check the Red wire for voltage while the engine is running. You should see the same voltage as the battery.
(b) Connect a jumper wire from the Positive battery cable to the Red wire and recheck the ammeter. If the amperage is now correct,
there is a problem in the harness or key switch.
7. If the amperage is correct, but the battery voltage remains low, replace the battery.
OVERCHARGING:
1. Clean all battery terminals, cables, and mounting bosses.
2. Check the voltage on the battery with a digital voltmeter and compare it to the dash meter.
3. Compare the voltage at the Rectifier with the voltage at the battery. If the voltage is ok at the Rectifier and not good at the battery, you
have a bad connection somewhere. Clean the battery posts and terminals.
4. Replace the battery with a known good Maintenance type flooded wet lead acid marine battery. If the battery voltage remains ok, install
a new Maintenance type flooded wet lead acid battery.
RECTIFIER BENCH TEST:
1. Using a digital multi meter, check the resistance and diodes of the Rectifier as follows:
Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading
Engine Gnd AC 1 (Stator) M Ω
Engine Gnd AC 2 (Stator) M Ω
AC 1 (Stator) + Bat (Red wire to starter solenoid) Reading*
AC 2 (Stator) + Bat (Red wire to starter solenoid) Reading*
AC 1 (Stator) Engine Gnd Open*
AC 2 (Stator) Engine Gnd Open*
+ Bat (Red wire to starter solenoid) AC 1 (Stator) Open*
+ Bat (Red wire to starter solenoid) AC 2 (Stator) Open*
* This Measurement is with the meter set to the diode scale. Where you see the term “Reading” represents a reading on the
meter. Where you see the term “Open” represents no value showing on the meter.
To Previous Page
Loading...