CDI 173-1225 - User Manual

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Installation and Troubleshooting Guide

This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service

Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support

at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.

Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.

CDI Electronics, LLC • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824 USA

Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com • Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371

Rev E • 5/18/2023 Page - 1 of 3 QF-358

CDI P/N: 173-1225

This unit replaces P/N's: 581046, 581225, and 763772.

Warning! This product is designed to be installed by a professional marine mechanic. CDI Electronics cannot be held liable for

injury or damage resulting from improper installation, abuse, neglect, or misuse of this product.

INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the Negative battery cable.

2. Remove the flywheel according to the service manual for your engine.

3. Disconnect the original Stator wires.

4. Remove the original Stator and save the original bolts.

5. Install the new Stator using the original bolts with a good thread-locker applied to the bolts and tightened to the factory torque

specifications.

6. Connect the new Stator to the Power Pack.

7. Connect the new Stator to the Rectifier. Ignore any stripes on the Rectifier as the new Stator does not require the Yellow wires to be

connected to a particular Rectifier wire.

8. Replace the flywheel according to the service manual for your engine.

9. Clean all battery cable connections both on the battery and the engine.

10. Reconnect the Negative battery cable.

TROUBLESHOOTING

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250 RPM may not allow the system to spark properly. This can be caused by a

weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables, or a mechanical problem inside the engine.

2. Perform a visual inspection of all ground wire connections to make sure that they are clean and tight.

3. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire from the Power Pack and retest. If the engine's ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a

fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift switch (if present).

4. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Rectifier and retest. If the engine now sparks, replace the Rectifier.

5. Check the Stator and Timer Base resistance and DVA as given below:

Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected)

Brown (Stator) Brown/Yellow (Stator) 835-985 Ω (1973) 640-785 Ω 150-400 V 150-400 V

Brown (Stator) Brown/Yellow (Stator) 555-705 Ω (1974-77) 640-785 Ω 150-400 V 150-400 V

White/Black (#1 Sensor) Black/White (#3 sensor) 10-20 Ω 35-55 Ω 0.6 V minimum 0.6 V minimum

Black/White (#2 Sensor) White/Black (#4 Sensor) 10-20 Ω 35-55 Ω 0.6 V minimum 0.6 V minimum

Brown (Stator) Engine Gnd Open Open 150-400 V -

Brown/Yellow (Stator) Engine Gnd Open Open 150-400 V -

Black/White (all) Engine Gnd Open Open 0.6 V minimum -

White/Black (all) Engine Gnd Open Open 0.6 V minimum -

6. Check the DVA on the Black/Yellow kill wire on the screw terminal of the Power Pack. You should have a reading of at least 150 DVA

or more. The Stator and Timer Base should be connected to the Power Pack for this test. If you do not, check the DVA on the Stator

and Timer Base. If the DVA on the Stator and Timer Base is good but the DVA on the Black/Yellow Kill wire on the screw terminal of

the Power Pack is low, the Power Pack is likely faulty.

7. If equipped with an OEM Timer Base and the Timer Base DVA is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the Timer Base sensor

and the Timer Base magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge or use the following procedure:

a) Loosen the two mounting screws and the nuts on the Timer Base Sensor located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of

the Timer Base.

b) Slide the Timer Base sensor in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor

mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws.

c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent.

d) Install the flywheel without the woodruff key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn.

e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the Timer Base magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out

approximately 0.005” and repeat steps c, d, and e.

f) If the ignition now has spark, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV.

g) If still no spark, replace the Timer Base.

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Summary

Troubleshooting

No Spark on Any Cylinder

Diagnose and resolve no spark issues on all cylinders by checking RPM, grounds, stop circuit, rectifier, and stator/timer base resistance/DVA.

No Spark or Intermittent Spark

Troubleshoot single or multiple cylinder spark issues by checking rectifier, timer base, primary wires, and ignition coils.

Power Pack or Timer Base Blows

Identify and fix repeated blowing of Power Pack or Timer Base by checking for shorts, SCR faults, or ignition coil issues.

Engine Will Not Stop (Kill)

Resolve engine kill circuit faults by checking the black/yellow wire at the Power Pack and the stop circuit components.

Miss at Any RPM

Address engine misses at any RPM by inspecting stator, rectifier, ignition coils, or potential block cracks.

Battery Charging Issues

Diagnose charging problems, prioritizing battery condition, connections, rectifier, and stator as causes.

Battery Not Charging

Troubleshoot battery not charging by checking connections, charging the battery, and inspecting stator windings.

Maximum Output Test

Perform a maximum output test by measuring amperage between the Red wire and starter solenoid battery post.

Overcharging

Resolve overcharging issues by cleaning terminals, checking voltage at rectifier and battery, and verifying battery type.

Summary

Troubleshooting

No Spark on Any Cylinder

Diagnose and resolve no spark issues on all cylinders by checking RPM, grounds, stop circuit, rectifier, and stator/timer base resistance/DVA.

No Spark or Intermittent Spark

Troubleshoot single or multiple cylinder spark issues by checking rectifier, timer base, primary wires, and ignition coils.

Power Pack or Timer Base Blows

Identify and fix repeated blowing of Power Pack or Timer Base by checking for shorts, SCR faults, or ignition coil issues.

Engine Will Not Stop (Kill)

Resolve engine kill circuit faults by checking the black/yellow wire at the Power Pack and the stop circuit components.

Miss at Any RPM

Address engine misses at any RPM by inspecting stator, rectifier, ignition coils, or potential block cracks.

Battery Charging Issues

Diagnose charging problems, prioritizing battery condition, connections, rectifier, and stator as causes.

Battery Not Charging

Troubleshoot battery not charging by checking connections, charging the battery, and inspecting stator windings.

Maximum Output Test

Perform a maximum output test by measuring amperage between the Red wire and starter solenoid battery post.

Overcharging

Resolve overcharging issues by cleaning terminals, checking voltage at rectifier and battery, and verifying battery type.

Overview

This document provides installation and troubleshooting guidelines for a CDI Electronics product, specifically a Stator with part number 173-1225. This unit replaces OEM part numbers 581046, 581225, and 763772. The manual emphasizes that installation should be performed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service Technician to prevent injury or damage from improper installation, abuse, neglect, or misuse.

Function Description:

The CDI P/N: 173-1225 is a Stator, a crucial component in an outboard engine's ignition and charging system. Its primary functions are to generate electrical current for the ignition system (to create spark) and to charge the battery. The Stator works in conjunction with other components like the Power Pack, Rectifier, Timer Base, and Ignition Coils to ensure proper engine operation and battery maintenance. The installation process involves replacing the original Stator with this new unit, ensuring correct connections to the Power Pack and Rectifier, and proper reinstallation of the flywheel.

Important Technical Specifications:

Stator and Timer Base Resistance and DVA (Connected/Disconnected):

The manual provides specific resistance (Ohms, Ω) and DVA (Diode Voltage Adapter, V) readings for troubleshooting the Stator and Timer Base. These values vary slightly depending on the engine's model year (1973 vs. 1974-77 for OEM Stators).

Brown (Stator) to Brown/Yellow (Stator):
- OEM Ohms (1973): 835-985 Ω
- OEM Ohms (1974-77): 555-705 Ω
- CDI Ohms: 640-785 Ω
- DVA (Connected/Disconnected): 150-400 V
White/Black (#1 Sensor) to Black/White (#3 Sensor):
- OEM Ohms: 10-20 Ω
- CDI Ohms: 35-55 Ω
- DVA (Minimum): 0.6 V
Black/White (#2 Sensor) to White/Black (#4 Sensor):
- OEM Ohms: 10-20 Ω
- CDI Ohms: 35-55 Ω
- DVA (Minimum): 0.6 V
Stator to Engine Ground (Brown, Brown/Yellow):
- Ohms: Open
- DVA: 150-400 V
Timer Base to Engine Ground (Black/White, White/Black):
- Ohms: Open
- DVA (Minimum): 0.6 V

Cranking RPM:

A minimum cranking speed of 250 RPM is required for the system to spark properly.

DVA on Black/Yellow Kill Wire:

At least 150 DVA or more when connected to the Power Pack.

DVA on Orange Primary Wires (to Ignition Coils):

At least 150 V minimum.

Battery Charging Circuit Resistance (Stator):

Less than 2 Ω.

Battery Charging DVA (Stator Yellow Wires to Rectifier):

Connected to Rectifier: 8-25 DVA at idle.
Disconnected from Rectifier: 17-50 DVA at idle.

Maximum Output Test (Ammeter Reading):

Capable of reading at least 10 Amps.

Usage Features:

Installation:

Disconnect the Negative battery cable.
Remove the flywheel (refer to engine service manual).
Disconnect original Stator wires.
Remove original Stator, saving original bolts.
Install new Stator using original bolts with thread-locker, tightened to factory torque specs.
Connect new Stator to the Power Pack.
Connect new Stator to the Rectifier (Yellow wires do not require connection to a particular Rectifier wire, ignoring stripes).
Replace the flywheel (refer to engine service manual).
Clean all battery cable connections (battery and engine).
Reconnect the Negative battery cable.

Troubleshooting (No Spark on Any Cylinder):

Verify cranking RPM is at least 250.
Inspect ground wire connections for cleanliness and tightness.
Disconnect Black/Yellow stop wire from Power Pack; if spark returns, troubleshoot stop circuit (key switch, harness, shift switch).
Disconnect Yellow wires from Rectifier; if spark returns, replace Rectifier.
Check Stator and Timer Base resistance and DVA readings against specifications.
Check DVA on Black/Yellow kill wire (should be 150+ DVA). Low reading with good Stator/Timer Base DVA suggests a faulty Power Pack.
If using an OEM Timer Base with low DVA, reset the air gap between the Timer Base sensor and magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge or a detailed manual procedure involving loosening screws, sliding sensor, coating with bluing, rotating flywheel, checking for contact, backing out if needed, and re-tightening. If no spark, replace the Timer Base.

Troubleshooting (No Spark or Intermittent Spark on One or More Cylinders):

Disconnect Yellow wires from Rectifier; if spark returns, replace Rectifier.
Check Timer Base resistance and DVA.
Swap Timer Base wire sets to see if the problem follows the wires.
Check DVA on Orange Primary wires from Power Pack (150+ V minimum). Low reading on one cylinder suggests a bad Ignition coil (test with Pack Load resistor). Persistent low reading indicates a bad Power Pack.
Visually inspect Ignition coils for damage (burned, discolored, cracks).
Swap Ignition coil with a known good one.
Consider a weak Timer Base magnet; try another flywheel if possible.

Troubleshooting (Power Pack or Timer Base Repeatedly Blows on Same Cylinder):

Check Timer Base wires for shorts to engine ground.
Check Timer Base resistance and DVA.
Replace the Ignition coil on the affected cylinder.

Troubleshooting (Engine Will Not Stop/Kill):

Disconnect Black/Yellow wire at Power Pack. Short a jumper wire from Black/Yellow stop wire to engine ground. If this stops spark, troubleshoot stop circuit (key switch, harness, shift switch). If not, replace Power Pack.

Troubleshooting (Miss at Any RPM):

Disconnect Yellow wires from Stator to Rectifier; if miss clears, replace Rectifier.
Use an inductive tachometer to isolate the problem. High RPM variance on one cylinder suggests Power Pack or Ignition coil issues (occasionally Timer Base). Check Timer Base DVA.
Perform high-speed shutdown and read spark plugs for water (cracked block can cause high-speed miss).
Check Timer Base and Stator coil flywheel magnets for damage.
Disconnect Rectifier; if system has spark, replace Rectifier.

Maintenance Features:

Battery Charging Issues (Overcharging or Not Charging):

Primary Cause: Battery issues (improper style, charging neglect), followed by battery connections, Rectifier, and Stator.
Recommended Battery Type: Single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-maintenance-free battery. These are lead-acid flooded cell batteries with vent caps, heavy/thick plates, and good reserve time, suitable for constant discharging/charging.
Avoid: Maintenance-free batteries (sealed, no vent caps) should NEVER be used in outboard applications as they are prone to premature failure due to constant charging/discharging cycles, leading to Rectifier failure.
Battery Connections: Ensure all battery connections (engine ground, battery terminals) are clean, tight, and corrosion-free. Use stainless hex nuts and lock washers; avoid wing nuts as they can loosen from vibration, causing premature battery and/or Rectifier failure.
Charging System Checks:
- Clean and service battery cable connections.
- Charge and load test the battery.
- Check voltage on the Red wire while engine is running (should match battery voltage).
- Verify Red wire is connected to 12 VDC.
- Inspect heavy battery charge windings on Stator for discoloration (dark color indicates overheating); replace Stator if discolored. Typical resistance should be less than 2 Ω.
- Measure DVA across Stator's Yellow battery charge wires (connected to Rectifier: 8-25 DVA at idle; disconnected from Rectifier: 17-50 DVA at idle). Low DVA suggests a faulty Stator. Visually inspect Stator for browning/varnish dripping (signs of overheating); replace Stator if present.
- If no change, try a known good, fully charged 850+ CCA lead-acid flooded cell battery.

Maximum Output Test (Charging System Performance):

Install an ammeter (10+ Amps) between Red wire and starter solenoid battery post.
Connect a load bank to the battery.
Start engine (in water or on dynamometer), bring RPM to ~4500 in gear.
Turn on load bank switches to increase battery load to 10 Amps.
Check ammeter reading.
If amperage is low:
- Check Red wire for voltage while engine is running (should match battery voltage).
- Connect a jumper wire from Positive battery cable to Red wire; if amperage is now correct, troubleshoot harness or key switch.
If amperage is correct but battery voltage remains low, replace the battery.

Overcharging:

Clean all battery terminals, cables, and mounting bosses.
Check battery voltage with a digital voltmeter and compare to dash meter.
Compare voltage at Rectifier with voltage at battery. If different, clean battery posts and terminals (bad connection).
Replace battery with a known good Maintenance type flooded wet lead acid marine battery. If voltage remains OK, install a new Maintenance type flooded wet lead acid battery.

CDI 173-1225 Specifications

General

Brand	CDI
Model	173-1225
Category	Motorcycle Accessories
Language	English

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