This document is an Owner's Manual for 1946 Model Chevrolet Passenger Cars, published by the Chevrolet Motor Division of General Motors Corporation, Detroit 2, Michigan. It is the Third Edition of the manual. The manual provides comprehensive information on the operation, maintenance, and care of the vehicle, aiming to ensure maximum performance, economy, and longevity.
Understanding the Vehicle
The manual begins by emphasizing the relationship between the owner, the Chevrolet dealer, and Chevrolet itself, highlighting the company's commitment to customer satisfaction and building lasting relationships. It encourages owners to read the manual carefully for a better understanding of their vehicle.
The manual includes a Manufacturer's Warranty, stating that Chevrolet warrants each new motor vehicle (excluding tires) to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service for ninety days after delivery or 4,000 miles, whichever comes first. The warranty is limited to making good on defective parts at the factory, with transportation charges prepaid. It explicitly states that no other warranties, expressed or implied, are made, and the manufacturer does not assume or authorize any other liability. The warranty is void if the vehicle has been repaired or altered outside an authorized Chevrolet Service Station in a way that affects its stability and reliability, or if it has been subject to misuse, negligence, or accident. The manufacturer reserves the right to make design changes or add improvements without obligation to install them on previously purchased vehicles.
Tire Warranty
Tires are covered by the tire manufacturer's warranty, or their agent, according to standard terms.
Owner Service Policy
The Chevrolet dealer agrees to fulfill all terms and conditions of the "Owner Service Policy" provided at the time of vehicle delivery.
Repair Parts
Genuine Chevrolet parts, manufactured to the same rigid specifications as original assembly parts, are stocked by Authorized Chevrolet Service Stations. The manual recommends using only genuine parts for replacements due to their superior quality. These parts are sold at uniform prices across the United States, and price lists are available for inspection at any Authorized Chevrolet Dealer.
Service Charges
Service charges at Authorized Chevrolet Service Stations are based on Flat Rate schedules provided by the Chevrolet Motor Division. These rates reflect methods and tools approved by Chevrolet, ensuring high-quality work at competitive prices. Owners are advised to have replacement repair and maintenance work done by an Authorized Chevrolet Service Station to protect their investment.
Genuine Chevrolet Accessories
Chevrolet offers genuine accessories made from high-quality materials, allowing owners to personalize their vehicles with touches of refinement and luxury. These accessories are available at all Chevrolet Dealers.
Breaking-In Period
To ensure thousands of miles of motoring pleasure and maintain high performance and efficiency, special care is required during the first two thousand miles of driving. The manual specifies speed limits for the breaking-in period:
- 40 Miles per hour for the first 100 Miles
- 50 Miles per hour for the next 200 Miles
- 60 Miles per hour for the next 200 Miles
Continuous high-speed driving should be avoided until the car has been driven 2000 miles. Regular lubrication according to "General Lubrication" recommendations is also crucial.
Ways to Save Gas and Oil
The manual provides tips for improving fuel economy:
- Quick Get-Aways: Avoid sudden acceleration or pumping the accelerator, as this wastes gasoline. Get away smoothly and shift into high gear at 20 to 25 miles per hour.
- Sudden Stops: Gradual stopping using engine braking saves gas and brake lining.
- High Speeds: Driving at 70 MPH uses almost twice as much gasoline as driving at 20 MPH. Economical cruising speeds are 30 to 45 MPH.
- Soft Tires: Under-inflated tires increase road friction and waste gas. Maintain recommended tire pressures.
- Parking in the Sun: Park in the shade to prevent gasoline evaporation.
- An Idling Motor: Turn off the engine when waiting.
- An Inefficient Carburetor: Have the carburetor checked and adjusted at least twice a year, ensuring the octane selector is properly set and the sediment bulb is clean.
- Cheap Lubrication: Use good quality oil of the specified grade and have the car greased every thousand miles.
- One Faulty or Dirty Spark Plug: Can waste a significant amount of gasoline.
- An Over-Full Crankcase: Does not improve lubrication and wastes oil. Keep the oil level within the marked limits on the oil gauge rod.
- Maximum Efficiency: Perform a complete motor tune-up every 5,000 miles or at least twice a year.
Maintenance Schedule
A table outlines regular mileage intervals for various maintenance tasks:
- Every 500 miles: Lubricate Chassis.
- Every 1000 miles: Lubricate Chassis, Change Oil (with recommendations on pages 45-52), Clean Air Cleaner.
- Every 2000 miles: Lubricate Chassis, Clean Air Cleaner.
- Every 3000 miles: Lubricate Chassis, Clean Spark Plugs.
- Every 4000 miles: Lubricate Chassis, Clean Air Cleaner.
- Every 5000 miles: Lubricate Chassis, Change Oil, Clean Air Cleaner, Cross Change Tires, Check Shock Absorbers, Tune Engine, Complete Inspection By Dealer, Pack Front Wheel Bearings.
- This pattern repeats, with specific tasks at different intervals up to 15,000 miles.
Additional operations are recommended based on time periods:
- Weekly: Check Battery, Check Air In Tires.
- Spring: Change Rear Axle Lub., Change Trans. Lub.
- Fall: Add Anti-Freeze, Flush Cooling System.
Safety Built In Your Car
Chevrolet cars are designed for driving pleasure and comfort, with safety features including:
- All-steel construction, insulated against heat and sound.
- Comfortable and safe interior appointments, adjustable front seat, safety glass, controlled ventilation, and recessed control knobs.
- Headlights controlled by a left foot switch for changing between upper and lower beams, leaving hands and right foot free. Always use the low beam when approaching and passing other cars.
- Hydraulic brakes, providing equal brake pressure on all four wheels for dependable stopping.
- Easily accessible hand brake lever under the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel.
Highway Safety
The manual emphasizes motoring safety and the driver's primary responsibility. It advises:
- Obeying road markers and driving courteously, especially at night or on strange roads.
- Signaling intentions (stopping, turning, pulling away from curb) to other drivers.
- Downhill: Shift into second or first gear to use the engine as a brake, reducing wear on brake shoes.
- Uphill: Shift into second gear to avoid straining the motor and clutch, and for better fuel economy.
- Overtaking and Passing: Dangerous on hills or curves where visibility is limited.
- Starting on a Hill: Set the hand brake, engage first gear, gradually release the clutch while pressing the accelerator, and then slowly release the hand brake.
- Curves: Slow down to a safe speed before entering a curve and stay to the extreme right side. Do not cross the center line to pass.
- Slippery Roads: Use second or high gear to reduce wheel spin when starting on ice or slippery pavement. Use first gear and accelerate slowly in deep snow.
- Tire Blow-Out: Do not jam on brakes. Hold the car steady until it slows, then gradually apply brakes.
- Skidding: Turn front wheels in the direction of the skid and gradually release the accelerator.
- Sand and Gravel: Use extra caution on sandy or gravel roads, as sudden shifting of gravel can cause loss of steering control.
- Practice the three "C's" of safety: CARE, COURTESY, COMMON SENSE.
Controls and Instruments
The manual provides a detailed diagram and description of the dashboard controls and instruments for Fleetmaster and Fleetline models. Drivers are encouraged to familiarize themselves with all controls before driving a new or different make of car.
- Keys and Locks: Two types of keys are provided. One set for front doors and ignition, and another for the rear compartment and glove compartment. The lock number is stamped on a knockout plug in the key's center, which should be recorded and destroyed for security. Replacement keys can be ordered through the Theft Bureau of Chevrolet Motor Division.
- Locking Doors (Inside): Push down the locking knob on the bottom of the window opening.
- Locking Doors (Outside): With the door open, push down the inside locking knob and hold the outside handle down while closing the door; or, with the door closed, insert the key in the front door lock and turn a quarter turn.
- Unlocking Doors: Insert the door key and turn a quarter turn.
- Ignition Lock: Illuminated and theft-resisting. The door keys also unlock and lock the ignition switch.
- Glove Compartment Lock: Has a different key number than the ignition and door locks. To open, press inward on the lock cylinder when unlocked. Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models have an automatic light in the glove compartment.
- Throttle Control: Controls the carburetor throttle valve. The accelerator pedal is the primary control, but a throttle knob on the instrument panel can also be used to open the throttle.
- Choke Control: Used for starting a cold engine by providing a richer fuel mixture. Improper use can thin lubricating oil. Avoid using the choke if the engine is warm. If the engine fails to start due to excessive choke use, open the throttle to admit more air.
- Spark Control: Controlled by two engineering features:
- Manually (Octane Selector): The Octane Selector (Fig. 8) allows adjustment for maximum economy and performance. It should be advanced as far as possible without causing engine knock at wide open throttle. For lower octane fuels, it should be retarded. Higher octane fuels allow more advance, improving economy and performance.
- Automatic: Engine speed and vacuum control influence spark timing through governor weights in the distributor.
- Starting Button: Engages the starter pinion with the flywheel teeth and closes the electric starter motor switch. Depressing the button automatically opens the carburetor throttle valve by about one-third, setting the engine speed to approximately 30 MPH when it starts, then slowing to idle speed when released. Release the button as soon as the engine starts.
- Clutch Pedal: Gradually and smoothly applies power to the drive system. When in normal position, the clutch is engaged. Depressing the pedal releases the clutch, disconnecting the engine from the transmission for gear shifting. A 3/4 to 1 inch free pedal travel is needed for maximum clutch efficiency and long life.
- Brake Pedal: Applies the four-wheel service brakes.
- Vacuum Power Shift: Uses both manual control and vacuum power for gear changes.
- Gear Shift Lever: Mounted on the steering column. It has five positions: neutral, reverse, first, second, and third.
- Neutral: Horizontal position.
- First Speed: Depress clutch, raise lever toward steering wheel, push to rear until fully engaged. Release clutch.
- Second Speed: Depress clutch, push lever toward front of car (through neutral) until engaged. Release clutch.
- Third Speed: Depress clutch, pull lever toward rear until it reaches the end of its travel.
- Reverse: At a standstill, depress clutch, raise lever, and push forward.
- Hand Brake Lever: Interconnected with rear service brakes, used for parking or starting on steep grades.
- Hood Control: Alligator jaw type, opening at the front. A concealed lock under the forepart of the hood is released by pulling out a control knob under the left side of the instrument panel. This raises the hood one inch, allowing access to the safety catch.
- Lighting Control: A single knob on the left side of the instrument panel controls headlamps, parking lamps, and tail lamps.
- Pulled out halfway: Parking lights, tail lamps, dash lamps, ignition switch lamp, and license lamp are lit.
- Pulled out all the way: Headlamps, tail lamps, dash lamps, license lamp, and ignition switch lamp are lit.
- Turning the knob adjusts instrument cluster and ignition lock lighting, or turns them off.
- Dimmer Switch: A foot switch on the left side of the toe board changes the headlamp beam direction. For city driving, the light is thrown nearest the car. For open road driving, depress the switch again to throw light farther ahead. A red light in the speedometer indicates when country beams are on.
- Fuse: 30 ampere capacity, located on the back of the lighting switch.
- Dome Light Switch: On the right-hand door lock pillar of all models. Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models also have an automatic dome light switch on the left-hand front body hinge pillar.
- Gasoline Gauge: Electrically operated, indicates fuel supply when ignition is on.
- Water Temperature Indicator: Functions as a thermometer, showing cylinder head water temperature.
- Ammeter: Registers current flow to and from the battery (except starting motor). Indicates charging or discharging, but not battery condition. Generator output is controlled by voltage and current regulators.
- Speedometer: Circular type, located to the right of the instrument cluster. A red light at the 50-mile mark indicates when headlamps are on upper beam.
- Clock: Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models have an illuminated stem wind clock to the left of the glove compartment door. Set by pulling out and turning the stem wind knob. Illuminated when headlights or parking lights are on.
- Windshield Wiper Control: Lever to the left of the center dividing strip of the windshield. Moving it right starts the wiper. Speed can be controlled by positioning the lever between "on" and "off."
- Cigarette Lighter: Press-in-to-light type. Pushing it in and releasing causes it to eject automatically in 8-10 seconds.
- Cowl Ventilator: Opened and closed by a handle below the center of the instrument panel. Three open positions for air regulation.
- Horn Button: Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models have a horn blowing ring. Stylemaster Models have the button in the center of the steering wheel.
- Sun Visor: Designed to move in and out and revolve to the side to block glare. Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models have right and left-hand visors; Stylemaster Models have one on the driver's side.
- Ash Receivers: All Fleetmaster and Fleetline Models have one on the instrument panel. Sport Sedan and 4-Door Sedan models have one in the back of the front seat. Town Sedan and 5-Passenger Coupe Models and Aerosedan models have one in the rear seat arm rests. All have a cigarette snuffer and hinged cover. To empty, press down on the snuffer and lift out the container.
- Front Seat Adjuster: Finger lever at the left-hand end of the front seat releases the mechanism, allowing the seat to move forward or backward.
- Front Ventipane Control: Operated by a crank handle. Locked by a sliding bolt on the lower frame; slide knob rearward to lock, pull out to unlock.
- Quarter Window Regulator: Fleetmaster Sport Sedans, 5-Passenger Coupes, and Fleetline 4-Door Sedans have sliding rear quarter windows. Handle in forward position "A" closes the window. Pulling handle to rear position "B" opens it up to 4 inches. The window locks automatically. Fleetmaster and Stylemaster Model Town Sedans and Fleetline Aerosedan have conventional raising/lowering rear quarter windows.
Tires
Chevrolet cars are equipped with synthetic rubber tires.
- Tire Inflation: Maintaining correct tire pressure is crucial for synthetic tires to prevent heat, under-inflation, overload, and excessive speed, which are major enemies. Check pressures at least twice a week when tires are cold. Avoid under-inflation (pinched tubes, rim bruises, excessive heat, irregular/rapid wear) and over-inflation (tire ruptures, hard riding, irregular/rapid wear, reduced skid resistance).
- Front Tires: 26 POUNDS PRESSURE
- Rear Tires: 28 POUNDS PRESSURE
- Tire Life: Additional tire life can be obtained by interchanging tires every 3000 to 5000 miles, depending on tread-wear severity. To utilize the spare tire and prevent disintegration, interchange tires as follows:
- Right front tire to spare compartment.
- Spare tire to right rear.
- Right rear to left front.
- Left front to left rear.
- Left rear to right front.
- Tube Repair: Cold patch methods are unsatisfactory for synthetic tubes. They should be vulcanized according to specific procedures for synthetic tubes.
- Mounting Synthetic Tires and Tubes:
- Clean inside of casing thoroughly.
- Insert tube and inflate until nearly rounded.
- Inspect wheel rim for rust, roughness, or bent flanges; clean and straighten if necessary.
- Apply a film of neutral vegetable oil soap to tire beads and rim side of tube. Do not allow soap into tire.
- Place tire and tube on wheel, centering so beads are out of rim well before inflating.
- Center tire valve and pull firmly against wheel. Hold valve and inflate to recommended pressure, ensuring beads are forced out evenly against wheel flanges.
- Completely deflate tire by removing valve core, then reinstall core and reinflate to recommended pressure.
- NOTE: Lubrication of tire beads and tube, and inflation/deflation/reinflation are important. Failure to do so can cause tube stretching and premature failure.
- Valve Caps: Act as a positive seal when properly tightened, not just to keep out dust and dirt.
Brakes
- Service Brakes: Applied by hydraulic pressure from the main cylinder to each wheel cylinder.
- Hand Brake: Mechanically operated through linkage and cables to actuate rear brake shoes.
- Hydraulic Brake Fluid: Use only "GM" hydraulic brake fluid for long, efficient brake life. Check fluid level in the main cylinder periodically.
- Brake Maintenance Suggestions:
- Avoid sudden stopping to prevent unnecessary strain.
- Adjust brakes promptly to avoid repair bills.
- When slowing down, use engine compression by not de-clutching until the last moment.
- Re-line brakes only with genuine "GM" linings, precision ground to fit the brake drum.
- Ensure only genuine "GM" hydraulic brake fluid is used to prevent damage from inferior fluids.
- Brake adjustment is needed when the pedal goes almost to the floor pan. Chevrolet dealers offer trained mechanics and equipment for this service.
Carburetor
- Carefully tested and adjusted at the factory. Avoid unnecessary adjustments if the engine is running unevenly or not fully warmed up.
- Adjustments: Two adjustments: idling mixture and idling speed.
- Idling Mixture: Open idle adjusting screw "A" (Fig. 27) 1 to 2 turns. With engine idling, turn screw both ways to find the best setting.
- Idling Speed: With hand throttle closed, set throttle lever stop screw "B" (Fig. 27) for approximately 400 RPM. Adjust if too fast or too slow.
Air Cleaner and Intake Silencer
- Cleans air entering the carburetor. A gauze element deposits dust and grit on oil-covered edges and quenches backfire flames.
- Maintenance (Normal Conditions): Remove air cleaner every 2,000 miles. Slush element in gasoline, drain, dry, then dip in engine oil and drain again. Reassemble.
- Maintenance (Extreme Conditions): Clean more frequently on gravel or dusty roads.
- Heavy Duty Air Cleaner (Optional): Available for dusty conditions. Uses S.A.E. 50 viscosity oil in summer and lighter grades in winter. Fill with one pint of oil.
- Servicing Heavy Duty Cleaner: Remove from carburetor, remove wing nut and cover, remove filter element (do not pry). Empty oil, clean dirt, wash body with gasoline, wipe dry. Wash filter element by slushing in gasoline, dry thoroughly. Fill body with one pint of S.A.E. 50 oil (summer) or lighter grade (winter). Reassemble, ensuring flange is flat against top flange for a tight seal.
Cooling System
- Keeps the engine at its most efficient operating temperature.
- Chevrolet's design provides large water passages around cylinder walls, spark plugs, and exhaust valves, preventing "hot spots."
- Thermostat: Maintains efficient operating temperature; should not be removed in summer.
- Water Pump: Circulates water, self-adjusting centrifugal type, requires no lubrication.
- Maintenance: Flush the entire circulating system regularly using radiator flushers, preferably reverse flushing.
- Draining: Open drain cock at the bottom of the radiator and at the lower left side of the cylinder block.
Anti-Freezing Solutions
- Selection: Consider local conditions and service type.
- Unsuitable Materials: Kerosene, other oils, solutions with calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium silicate, other inorganic salts, honey, glucose, or sugar are not satisfactory.
- Alcohol (Denatured Alcohol and Methanol): Widely used, affordable, and widely available.
- Disadvantages: Evaporates, especially on warm days or hard driving, requiring periodic testing and refilling. Can damage radiator and car finish if spilled.
- Overflow Tank: Recommended to condense and trap vapor, returning liquid to the radiator.
- Proportions (Denatured Alcohol 94% / 188° proof):
- +10° F: 2½ pints alcohol, 5½ pints water per gallon.
- 0° F: 3 pints alcohol, 5 pints water per gallon.
- -10° F: 3½ pints alcohol, 4½ pints water per gallon.
- -20° F: 4 pints alcohol, 4 pints water per gallon.
- -30° F: 5 pints alcohol, 3 pints water per gallon.
- Proportions ("GM Anti-Freeze" / Methanol):
- +10° F: 2 pints "GM Anti-Freeze," 6 pints water per gallon.
- 0° F: 2½ pints "GM Anti-Freeze," 5½ pints water per gallon.
- -10° F: 3 pints "GM Anti-Freeze," 5 pints water per gallon.
- -20° F: 3½ pints "GM Anti-Freeze," 4½ pints water per gallon.
- -30° F: 4 pints "GM Anti-Freeze," 4 pints water per gallon.
- Ethylene Glycol: More expensive than alcohol. Higher boiling point, more effective car heater performance. In a tight system, only water is needed to replace evaporation losses.
- "GM Ethylene Glycol" is specially treated to prevent corrosion. Other ethylene glycol preparations must contain suitable corrosion inhibitors.
- Proportions ("GM Ethylene Glycol"):
- +10° F: 2 pints "GM Ethylene Glycol," 6 pints water per gallon.
- 0° F: 2½ pints "GM Ethylene Glycol," 5½ pints water per gallon.
- -10° F: 3 pints "GM Ethylene Glycol," 5 pints water per gallon.
- -20° F: 3½ pints "GM Ethylene Glycol," 4½ pints water per gallon.
- -30° F: 4 pints "GM Ethylene Glycol," 4 pints water per gallon.
- Glycerine: Chemically treated radiator glycerine (approved by Glycerine Producers' Association) is satisfactory for corrosion prevention.
- Servicing Cooling System (Winter): Inspect and service before installing anti-freeze. Clean system, remove scale and rust. Tighten or replace cylinder head gaskets to prevent leaks. Anti-freeze or water mixed with engine oil can form sludge, interfering with lubrication.
- Hose: Install new radiator and heater hose, especially with ethylene glycol or glycerine, as they can shrink rubber.
- Water Pump Seal: Must be leaktight to prevent liquid loss and air entry, which can cause foaming and corrosion.
- Inspection: Regularly inspect the entire system for leaks after anti-freeze installation.
- Rust Preventives/Inhibitors: Not recommended with "GM Anti-Freeze," "GM Ethylene Glycol," or other chemically treated anti-freeze preparations.
- Loss of Anti-Freezing Solutions: Can occur due to leaks, evaporation, boiling, or foaming. Overfilling causes loss by expansion.
- Testing: Use a hydrometer to check freezing point and determine if anti-freeze or water is needed. Be aware that some testers require specific temperatures or are designed for only one type of anti-freeze.
Electrical System
The double-unit system with ground return includes: Generator, voltage and current regulator, starting motor, distributor, ignition coil, wiring harness, storage battery, ammeter, gasoline gauge, two horns, ignition lock, lighting, and foot control switch.
- Spark Plugs: "AC" Spark Plugs with 10 mm threads. Warm up fast, operate cooler at full throttle, reducing oxide deposits from leaded gasolines.
- Maintenance: Clean every 3000-4000 miles to remove oxide deposits.
- Gap Setting: .040".
- Installation: Use thumb and finger pressure on the wrench to prevent thread stripping or insulator breakage.
- Battery: Located on the right side of the engine compartment.
- Solution Level: Maintain 1/4" above plates with distilled water. Add water just before using the car in freezing weather to allow mixing.
- Maintenance: Add water weekly in summer, every two weeks in winter. Clean and tighten terminals.
- Charge: A discharged battery freezes easily. A fully charged battery resists freezing down to -30° F. Have your Chevrolet Dealer check battery condition.
- "Sealed Beam" Headlamps: Light source, reflector, lens, and gasket are a securely sealed unit. When filament burns out or lens breaks, the entire unit is replaced.
- Country (Upper) Beam (Fig. 34): Illuminates the road evenly for a considerable distance, for use on open highways with no other vehicles.
- Traffic (Lower) Beam (Fig. 35): Low enough on the left side to prevent glare for oncoming drivers, for use on heavily traveled highways or when meeting other vehicles.
- Operation: Pull light button to second or last position, then use foot switch to alternate between beams. A red pilot bulb indicates when country beams are on.
- Replacement: Two types of "Sealed Beam" units are available (hard glass or composite metal reflector/glass lens), both interchangeable. They are sealed against dust and moisture, requiring only exterior cleaning.
- Remove headlamp door rim (Fig. 37).
- Loosen (but do not remove) three retaining ring screws (Fig. 38). Do not disturb aiming screws.
- Remove retaining ring by rotating left (Fig. 39).
- Remove reflector plug (Fig. 40).
- Install new unit by reversing steps.
- Lamp Bulbs: A table lists bulb types, candlepower (C.P.), and bulb numbers for various locations (Headlamp, Parking Lamp, Tail and Stop Lamp, License Plate Lamp, Ignition Lock Lamp, Headlamp Beam Indicator, Instrument Cluster, Speedometer, Clock, Glove Compartment, Dome Lamp).
Care of the Finish
- Chrome: Chrome-plated parts are protected against corrosion, but salt, calcium chloride, and corrosive atmospheres can cause rust. Clean affected spots with scouring powder and apply a thin film of oil or wax.
- Paint, Enamel, and Lacquer: Designed to last the life of the car with reasonable care.
- Strong Sunlight: Causes dulling. Park in shade if possible. Polish occasionally.
- Dirt and Road Film: Frequent dusting and washing maintain appearance and value. Use a sponge and plenty of water, avoiding scratching. Dry with a clean chamois.
- Tar: Remove fresh tar with gasoline. For older tar, use a commercial tar remover.
- Bug Spots: Wash off with a solution of two quarts of water and 1/2 pound of baking soda, then rinse with clean water.
Care of the Upholstery
Keeping upholstery clean is important for longevity, comfort, and hygiene.
- Cleaning Solvents: Use carefully to minimize "finish" removal and cleaning rings. Apply outside the spot and rub inward.
- Removal of Dust: Dust and dirt should be removed every few weeks with a whisk broom, carpet beater, or vacuum cleaner. Remove seats for thorough cleaning.
- Washing (Mohair Velvet): Use lukewarm water and neutral soap. Apply suds with a damp cloth, sponge, or soft brush, rubbing with the pile. Remove suds with a clean damp cloth, wipe with a dry cloth. Brush lightly when damp and again when dry.
- Steaming (Mohair Velvet): Spread a damp cloth over the surface and touch with a hot flatiron, or apply a steaming hot towel for ten minutes. This restores fibers to an erect position.
- Removal of Stains: Remove stains as soon as possible.
- Use clean cloths, using a clean portion for each application.
- A neutral (non-alkaline) soap is recommended for soapsuds.
- Avoid hot water unless absolutely necessary; wipe off immediately.
- Do not use colored gasoline or gasoline with tetraethyl lead as a cleaning solvent.
- Do not use bleaches or reducing agents (e.g., chloride of lime, Javelle water, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydrosulphite, sulphurous acid, sodium thiosulphate) as they weaken fabric or change color.
- Carbon tetrachloride is non-inflammable; other solvents may be flammable.
- Avoid skin contact with cleaning solvents.
- Do not breathe fumes of cleaning solvents.
- Keep oxalic acid out of reach of children.
- Water spots can be removed as outlined under "Water Spots."
- Brush mohair velvets against the pile or lengthwise.
- For grease spots, start rubbing outside the spot and move inward to lessen cleaning rings.
- Apply reagents to a clean cloth or brush, not directly to the fabric.
- Specific Stain Removal:
- Blood: Rub with a clean cloth wet with cold water. If persistent, apply a little household ammonia water, then rub with a clean wet cloth. Do not use hot water or soap.
- Candy (non-chocolate): Rub with a cloth wet with very hot water. If persistent, sponge with carbon tetrachloride after drying.
- Candy (cream/fruit-filled chocolate): Rub with a cloth soaked in lukewarm soapsuds, scrape with a dull knife, then rinse with a cold wet cloth.
- Chocolate: Rub with a cloth wet with lukewarm water. After drying, sponge with carbon tetrachloride.
- Chewing Gum: Moisten with carbon tetrachloride, work off with a dull knife.
- Fruits: Rub with a cloth wet with very hot water, scrape pulp. If persistent, sponge with carbon tetrachloride after drying. Avoid soap and water or heat.
- Grease and Oil: Scrape off excess. Rub with a clean cloth wet with carbon tetrachloride, benzene, ether, or motor gasoline. Start outside the spot and rub inward. If dirt remains, rub with a clean rag saturated with lukewarm suds, then rinse with cold water.
- Ice Cream: Same procedure as fruit stains. If persistent, rub with warm soapsuds, then rinse with cold water.
- Ink (Writing): Varies by ink type. No ink spot can be completely removed from velvets and flat fabrics without injury. Recommended methods:
- Gartside's Iron Rust Soap: Rub into stain, wipe with dry cloth, rinse with cold water.
- Ink Eradicator No. 1 Solution: Apply with glass dropper, blot with blotting paper, rinse with cold water.
- Saturated solution of oxalic acid: Use as above.
- Two percent solution of sodium acid fluoride: Use as above.
- Iron Rust: Rub with a clean cloth saturated with warm soapsuds, rinse with cold water. Treat remaining stain as an ink spot.
- Lipstick: Apply carbon tetrachloride to a saturated cloth, press blotter firmly on spot. Repeat with new blotting paper.
- Liquor: Same as fruit stains.
- Mildew (fresh): Rub vigorously with a cloth soaked in warm soapsuds, rinse with cold water.
- Mildew (old): Soap and water may not remove discoloration. Oxalic acid treatment: Pour 10% solution on cloth, cover stain, allow to stand, then remove acid by blotting and pouring cold/hot water.
- Shoe Polish: Allow to dry, brush vigorously. If persistent, moisten with cold water, dry, and repeat brushing. For wax-based polish, rub with carbon tetrachloride.
- Tar: Moisten with carbon tetrachloride, benzene, or gasoline, remove with dull knife. Rub with a cloth wet with one of the solvents.
- Urine: Sponge with a clean cloth wet with lukewarm soapsuds, rinse with cold water. Apply a saturated cloth with one part household ammonia water to five parts water, allow to remain, then rinse with clean wet cloth.
- Water Spots: Sponge entire panel with a clean cloth wet with cold water, allow to dry, then sponge spot with carbon tetrachloride.
General Lubrication
- Chevrolet dealers offer specialized lubrication service.
- Lubricants are cheaper than repair bills and should be applied regularly.
- Use proper grade of lubricants according to schedule.
- Choose reputable refiners/marketers.
Engine Lubrication
- Importance: Crucial for performance and satisfaction.
- Breaking-in Period: Use recommended light oils for easy starting, prompt oil flow, less friction, and less wear.
- Types of Oil:
- Regular Motor Oil: Straight mineral oil, suitable for moderate operating conditions (low/medium speed, occasional long runs).
- Premium Motor Oil: Proved oxidation stability and bearing corrosion preventive properties, suitable for severe operating conditions (mountain climbing, sustained high speed).
- S.A.E. Viscosity Numbers: Classify lubricants by viscosity/fluidity, not other properties. Adopted by oil companies to meet seasonal requirements.
- Recommended Viscosity Grades:
- Crankcase Oil Classification (Saybolt Universal):
- 10-W (*Sub-zero pour test): Min 5,000, Max 10,000 at 0°F.
- 20-W (**Zero pour test): Min 10,000, Max 40,000 at 0°F.
- S.A.E. 20: 120-185 at 130°F.
- S.A.E. 30: 185-255 at 130°F.
- Lower S.A.E. numbers are lighter and flow more readily.
- Lubrication-First 500 Miles: Crankcase is filled with 10-W oil. Use this oil for the first 500 miles.
- Lubrication-After 500 Miles: Drain hot crankcase, refill with recommended oil based on individual climatic and driving conditions.
- Fall-Winter-Spring: Select oil for easy starting at the lowest anticipated atmospheric temperature.
- Lowest Atmospheric Temperature:
- Not lower than 32° F: 20-W or S.A.E. 20
- As low as +10° F: 20-W
- As low as -10° F: 10-W
- Below -10° F: 10-W plus 10% Kerosene (only for protracted periods below -10° F)
- When in doubt, use lighter grade. 20-W is recommended over S.A.E. 20 if temperatures may drop to freezing.
- Summer: Use 20-W or S.A.E. 20 oils. S.A.E. 30 can be used if average daylight temperature consistently above 90° F.
- Maintaining Oil Level: Oil Gauge Rod (Fig. 42) marked "Full" and "Add Oil." Maintain level between these lines. Check frequently.
- Oil Gauge Pressure: High when cold, drops as engine warms up. Abnormally high pressure after warm-up indicates plugged oil lines.
- When to Change Crankcase Oil: Change every 2000 to 3000 miles under normal driving conditions to remove harmful foreign materials.
- Frequent Long Runs/High Speed: More frequent changes due to oxidation, sludge, and varnish.
- Dusty Roads/Dust Storms: More frequent changes due to abrasive material.
- Short Runs/Cold Weather/Excessive Idling: More frequent changes due to water accumulation from condensation, which can freeze, interfere with oil circulation, cause rusting, and clog passages. Drain when engine is at normal operating temperature.
- Crankcase Dilution: Thinning of oil by fuel vapors leaking past pistons and rings. Occurs mostly during warming-up period.
- Automatic Control Devices: Thermostatic water temperature control, thermostatic heat control on exhaust manifold, downdraft carburetor, and efficient crankcase ventilating system minimize dilution.
- Control by Car Owner Under Abnormal Conditions:
- Change oil more often during short runs in cold weather or excessive idling.
- Maintain good mechanical condition (cylinders, rings, pistons, valves, ignition).
- Use good fuel.
- Water in Crankcase: Serious lubrication troubles in cold weather. Caused by condensation of water vapor from exhaust gases. Short runs in cold weather aggravate this.
- Corrosion: Sulphur in fuel forms corrosive acids when mixed with water in the crankcase, causing wear on piston pins, camshaft bearings, etc. Proper engine care reduces this.
Water Pump
- Permanently sealed ball-bearing water pump requires no lubrication.
Carburetor Accelerating Pump
- Every 5,000 miles, remove dust cover and saturate felt ring on pump lever shaft with light oil or engine oil.
Starting Motor
- Every 1,000 miles, add a few drops of light oil or engine oil to the oil cup.
Generator
- Every 1,000 miles, add a few drops of light oil or engine oil to the two oil cups. Do not "over-oil" to prevent gumming or sticking of the commutator.
Distributor
- Equipped with a lubricant cup. Fill with chassis lubricant or equivalent, turn down every 1,000 miles.
Rear Axle and Transmission
- Rear Axle: Hypoid Rear Axle requires Hypoid Lubricant for severe conditions.
- Recommended Lubricant: S.A.E. 90 "All-Purpose" Gear Lubricant for year-around service. S.A.E. 80 may be used in extremely low temperatures.
- CAUTION: Straight Mineral Oil Gear Lubricant must not be used in Hypoid Rear Axles.
- Transmission:
- Recommended Lubricant: S.A.E. 90 Transmission or Mineral Oil Gear Lubricant, or S.A.E. 90 "All-Purpose" Gear Lubricant.
- "All-Purpose" Gear Lubricants: Lubricate both passenger car and truck hypoid rear axles. Must be manufactured under controlled conditions.
- Lubricant Additions: Check level periodically. Use the same type of lubricant for additions.
- Lubricant Changes: Not required seasonally, but recommended to drain and refill every 6,000 to 10,000 miles.
- CAUTION: Use light flushing oil when draining. Do not use water, steam, kerosene, gasoline, alcohol, etc.
Universal Joint
- Receives lubrication from the transmission.
Steering Gear
- Filled at the factory with all-season gear lubricant. No seasonal change or draining needed. Add "All Purpose gear lubricant or chassis lubricant" as required.
- A pipe plug prevents over-lubrication. Over-lubrication can force lubricant up the steering gear tube to the horn button and steering wheel.
Passenger Car Lubrication Points (Fig. 43-Chassis Lubrication Chart)
A detailed chart (Fig. 43) illustrates lubrication points and intervals:
- Lubricate Every 1000 Miles:
- Lower Control Arm-Front (2 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Lower Control Arm-Rear (1 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Upper Control Arm-Front (1 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Upper Control Arm-Rear (1 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- King Pin (2 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Tie Rod (2 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Steering Gear - Chassis Lubricant (SG)
- Rear Spring Shackle-Rear (2 each side) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Generator (2 oil cups) - Light Engine Oil (EO)
- Distributor (1 cup) - Chassis Lubricant (CL)
- Starting Motor (1 oil cup) - Light Engine Oil (EO)
- Throttle Bell Crank - Light Engine Oil (EO)
- Lubricate Every 2000 Miles:
- Lubricate Every 5000 Miles:
- Shock Absorber-Front - Genuine Shock Insulating Fluid (SA)
- Shock Absorber-Rear - Genuine Shock Insulating Fluid (SA)
- Carburetor Accelerating Pump Shaft - Light Engine Oil (EO)
- Lubricate Every 10,000 Miles:
- Front Wheel Bearings - High Melting Point Front Wheel Bearing Lubricant (WB)
Brake and Clutch Pedal
- Lubricated at the factory, should not require further lubrication. If "sticky," remove plug and fill reservoir with chassis lubricant.
- CAUTION: Avoid getting lubricant on rubber parts.
Front Wheel Bearings
- Remove front wheels, clean ball bearings, and pack with high melting point front wheel bearing lubricant. Do not pack the hub or hub cap excessively.
- Adjustment:
- Use an 8" wrench, apply steady force, and rotate wheel to seat parts.
- Back off adjusting nut 1/2 castellation or 1/12 turn.
- Insert cotter pin if slot aligns. If not, back off until alignment.
- This allows for settling. Never set up on the loose side. Slight friction from a new felt retainer assembly is normal.
Rear Wheel Bearings
- Lubricated from the rear axle.
Spring Shackles
- Equipped with pressure gun fittings, lubricate with recommended "Chassis" lubricant.
- CAUTION: Rubber bushings (front of rear spring, spring seats, rear of rear springs on some cars) must not be lubricated or sprayed with oil.
Shock Absorbers
- Keep filled with low viscosity (light body) shock absorber fluid with a pour test not higher than 30° below zero. Viscosity 70-80 seconds at 100° F, not exceeding 975-1000 seconds at 20° F.
- Do not use heavier fluids, as they are detrimental.
Chassis
- Consult Fig. 43 for lubrication points and intervals.
- "Chassis lubricant" is a semi-fluid lubricant (mineral oil, 300-500 seconds Sayboldt Universal Viscosity at 100° F, with ~8% insoluble soap) for pressure gun application.
Hydraulic Brake Fluid
- Your Chevrolet dealer has the proper fluid for the brake system.
Vacuum Power Gearshift Mechanism
- Lubricated at the factory, requires no further lubrication under 15,000 miles.
- If shifting becomes "sticky," inspect protective boot for leaks. Lubricate levers with graphite lubricant or chassis lubricant, and properly assemble the boot.
Rear Springs
- Enclosed in metal covers, coated and filled with a special graphite lubricant at assembly.
- If necessary, lubricate spring leaves or refill covers with a soft, smooth lubricant containing 8-10% graphite, or chassis lubricant.
Data
- Car Serial Number: Stamped on plate on right front side of floor pan in front of front seat.
- Engine Number: Stamped on boss on right center side of engine block to the rear of ignition distributor.
- Wheelbase: 116"
- Tire Sizes: 6.00 x 16"
- Tire Pressures: 26 lbs. Front, 28 lbs. Rear
- Engine:
- Number Cylinders: 6
- Bore: 3 1/2"
- Stroke: 3 3/4"
- Horsepower (A.M.A.): 29.4
- Piston Displacement: 216.5 Cu. In.
- Compression Ratio: 6.5 to 1
- Engine Adjustments:
- Spark Plug Gap: .040"
- Breaker Point Gap: .018"
- Initial Ignition Setting: Distributor points should break when steel ball on flywheel is opposite pointer on flywheel housing.
- Octane Selector: Set for fuel grade to produce slight "ping" on acceleration.
- Carburetor Idle Adjustment: 1 to 2 turns open
- Engine Idling Speed: 450 to 500 RPM
- Intake Valve Clearance: .006" to .008" - hot
- Exhaust Valve Clearance: .013" to .015" - hot
- Air Cleaner: Remove at least once every 2,000 miles, wash filter element in gasoline, dip in fresh engine oil. More frequent cleaning for dusty roads.
- Unit Capacities:
- Crankcase-Oil Capacity-Refill: 5 qts.
- Transmission-Lubricant Capacity: 1 1/2 pts.
- Rear Axle-Hypoid Lubricant Capacity: 3 1/2 pts.
- Cooling System-Fluid Capacity (2 drain cocks): 15 qts.
- Gasoline Tank Capacity: 16 gals.
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