Hammarlund FM50A - Page 11

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head

lining

away

from

welded

in

ribs).

The

small

hole

in

the

upholstry

may

be

disguised

by

using

a

whisk

broom

after

removing

the

tool

from

the

upholstry.

3.

Attach

the

transmission

line

of

the

antenna

to

the

end

of

the

snake

protruding

through

the

roof.

The

recommended

procedure

for

attaching

the

cable

to

the

snake

is

as

follows.

(a)

Drill

a

small

hole

in

the

end

of

the

snake

(to

clear

#18

wire).

(b) Skin

the

transmission

line

for

approximately

one

inch,

separate

the

braid

and

remove

3/4"

of

the

inner

conductor

insulation.

(c)

Run

the

inner

conductor

through

the

small

hole

in

the

end

of

the

snake

and

twist

together

with

the

braid.

(d)

Tape

about

three

inches

of

this

area

with

thin

plastic

electrical

tape

(such

as

Scotch

Number

33

or

equivalent).

NOTE:

Before

attempting

to

install

the

antenna

in

the

vehicle,

it

is

a good

idea

to

try

all

pieces

for

fit

to

make

sure

that

possible

burrs

or

foreign

matter

might

cause

mating

pieces

to

bind

during

final

assembly.

Routing

of

Antenna

Transmission

Line:

Always

route

the

transmission

line

through

the

area

which

provides

maximum

clearance.

AVOID SHARP BENDS. As

the

cable

may

go

under

up-

holstry,

metal

fittings,

etc.,

be

sure

to

place

it

in

such

a way

that

it

will

not

be

squeezed

when

the

fittings,

frames,

etc.,

are

put

back

in

place.

Mter

replacing

all

trim

and

metal

work,

the

co-axial

cable

and

roof

top

antenna

should

be

checked

for

continuity

between

the

center

conduc-

tor

and

the

whip.

The

co-axial

cable

should

next

be

checked

for

lack

of

continuity

between

its

inner

and

outer

conductors.

Attaching

Co-Axial

Cable

Connector:

(a) Cut

cable

off

square

at

the

proper

length.

(b)

Cut

off

one

and

one-eight

inches

of

outside

plastic

insulation

jacket.

(c)

Comb

out

copper

shield.

(d)

Cut

inner

insulation

off

to

expose

five-eights

inches

of

inner

conductor.

(e)

Trim

stranded

shielding

so

it.is

about

one-sixteenth

inch

shorter

than

the

inner

insulation.

Slide

coupling

through

and

adapter

on

cable,

folding

the

combed

strands

over

the

adapter.

(f)

Tin

center

conductor

and

screw

plug

on

cable

and

adapter.

(g)

Solder

shield

strands

through

holes

in

plug

and

solder

center

conductor

of

the

cable

to

the

plug

end.

Use

enough

heat

to

get

a good

solder

joint.

Avoid

using

so

much

heat

that

the

solder

will

flow

the

shell

to

the

center

conductor

inside

the

plug.

Avoid

handling

the

cable

and

plug

until

the

softened

insulation

between

the

center

conductor

and

shield

has

had

a

chance

to

cool

off

and

return

to

it's

firm

state.

(h)

Recheck

for

continuity.

NOTE:

The

antenna

should

be

cut

to

it's

proper

operating

frequency.

First,

determine

the

frequency

being

used

then

using

the

chart

furnished

with

the

antenna,

cut

the

whip

to

the

proper

length.

The

steel

used

in

the

manufacture

of

the

antenna

whip

is

usually

very

tough,

and

could

easily

damage

diagonal

cutters.

Therefore,

diagonal

pliers

should

be

used

only

to

lightly

scar

the

whip

at

the

correct

point,

and

then

break

it

by

bending

back

and

forth

at

that

point.

Mter

the

installation

is

complete,

insert

a

"thru-line"

RF

watt

meter

between

the

FM-50-

A

antenna

output

connector

and

the

PL259

plug

of

the

antenna.

Tune

the

output

stage

for

-11-

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