11 Before refitting the bearings to the hub,
pack them thoroughly with a high melting-
point grease. Do not fill the space between
the bearings in the swivel hub with grease.
12 Place one of the bearings in position on
the hub with the word THRUST or the
markings stamped on the outer race facing
toward the centre of the hub. Note: Certain
later models are fitted with bearings having
lengthened inner races which butt against
each other. On these assemblies the bearing
spacer is omitted and the bearings are fitted
with the identification markings facing away
from the centre of the hub. Using a tube of
suitable diameter or a drift, press the outer
race into the hub between the vice jaws or
very carefully tap it into position. Ensure that
the outer race does not tip slightly and bind as
it is being fitted. If this happens, the outer race
will crack so take great care to keep it square.
Ensure that the bearing seats firmly against
the shoulder in the centre of the hub when
fitted.
13 Now place the bearing spacer in position
and repeat the previous paragraph for the
second bearing. Note: Some makes of
bearing have lengthened inner races which
butt against each other. In this case the
bearing spacer is no longer needed.
14 Tap a new oil seal into place over the
outer bearing using a block of wood to keep it
square. Note that both oil seals are fitted with
their sealing lips inwards and that the inner
seal has a second lip on its inner
circumference.
15 Refit the split spacer against the inner
bearing and tap in the inner oil seal using a
tube of suitable diameter.
16 Refit the brake backplate to the swivel
hub and secure with the four retaining bolts,
tightened to the specified torque (see Chap-
ter 9).
17 Place the distance piece over the driving
flange with the chamfer towards the flange.
With the inner race of the inner bearing
suitably supported, tap the driving flange into
the bearings. Ensure that the flange enters the
distance piece between the two bearings
squarely, otherwise the bearing inner race will
be dislodged with possible damage to the oil
seal.
18 The brake drum and its retaining screws
can now be refitted and the complete swivel
hub assembly refitted to the car as described
in the Section 3. When refitting the hub
assembly, ensure that the water shield on the
driveshaft is packed with grease around its
sealing face and positioned 6.35 mm from the
end of the shaft. Adjust the brakes as
described in Chapter 1 before lowering the
car to the ground.
Disc brake models
19 Remove the swivel hub assembly as
described in Section 3.
20 With the assembly on the bench, lift off
the tapered collar (fitted to certain models)
from the front of the outer bearing and then
prise out the two oil seals using a screwdriver.
Now lift out the inner bearing spacer, the two
taper roller bearings and the distance piece.
21 Using a suitable drift, tap out the two
bearing outer races from each side of the hub.
22 Thoroughly clean the bearings and swivel
hub using paraffin or a suitable solvent and
dry with a lint-free rag. Remove any burrs or
score marks from the hub bore with a fine file
or scraper.
23 Carefully examine the bearing outer races,
the rollers and roller cages for pitting, scoring,
or cracks, and if at all suspect renew the
bearings. It will also be necessary to renew
the oil seals as they will have been damaged
during removal.
24 Begin reassembly by refitting the bearing
outer races to the hub, with their smaller
diameter toward the hub centre. Press the
outer races into the hub using a tube of
suitable diameter and a vice, or very carefully
tap them into place using a brass drift. Ensure
that the race does not tip slightly and bind as
it is being installed. If this happens, the outer
race will crack so take great care to keep it
square. The outer race must seat firmly
against the shoulder in the centre of the hub
when fitted.
25 Pack the two roller bearings with a high
melting-point grease and position them in
their outer races with the distance piece in
between.
26 Install the two new oil seals with their
sealing lips inwards and use a tube of suitable
diameter to tap them fully home. Note that
there is a spacer fitted behind the inner oil
seal and that the inner seal also has a second
lip on its inner circumference.
27 Position the tapered collar over the outer
bearing (where fitted), and refit the swivel hub
assembly to the car as described in Section 3.
When refitting the swivel hub, ensure that the
water shield on the driveshaft is packed with
grease around its sealing face and positioned
6.35 mm from the end of the shaft.
5 Front swivel hub balljoints -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the swivel hub assembly as
described in Section 3 and mount it firmly in a
vice, with the balljoint requiring attention
uppermost.
2 Remove the rubber dust cover, tap back
the lockwasher, and using a large socket or
box spanner, undo and remove the domed
retaining nut.
3 Lift off the ball-pin, ball-pin seat, and if
working on the lower balljoint assembly, the
ball-pin seat tension spring.
4 Lift off the shims located over the
lockwasher, then remove the grease nipple
and lift away the lockwasher.
5 Clean all the components thoroughly and
then carefully inspect the ball-pin, ball-pin
seat and domed nut for pitting, score marks
or corrosion.
6 If the components are worn, a balljoint
repair kit, consisting of new ball-pin, ball-pin
seat, spring, shims, lockwasher and retaining
nut should be obtained from your dealer. If the
old parts are in a satisfactory condition they
may be re-used and any slackness that may
have been previously felt in the joint can be
taken up by adjustment of the shim sizes.
Refitting
7 Before final reassembly of the balljoint, it is
necessary to determine the correct number
and size of shims required to provide a snug
fit of the ball-pin with the domed retaining nut
fully tightened. This is done in the following
way.
8 Place the lockwasher in position and refit
the grease nipple. Now place all the available
shims over the lockwasher and then refit the
ball-pin seat, the ball-pin and domed retaining
nut. Assemble all the parts without grease at
this stage, and if working on the lower balljoint
do not fit the ball-pin seat tension spring.
9 Fully tighten the retaining nut and then check
the movement of the ball-pin. With all the
available shims fitted, it should be quite slack
with considerable up-and-down movement.
10 Using a trial and error process, remove
the retaining nut, take out a shim and then
refit the nut and recheck the movement of the
ballpin. Continue doing this until it is possible
to move the ball-pin in all directions, without
binding, but with slight resistance to
movement being felt.
11 Dismantle the joint again, lubricate all the
parts with general purpose grease and finally
reassemble the joint. If working on the lower
assembly, the ball-pin seat tension spring
should now be fitted (see illustrations).
12 Tighten the retaining nut fully, check that
the ball-pin still moves freely with only slight
resistance, and if satisfactory bend up the
lockwasher to secure the retaining nut (see
illustrations).
13 Refit the rubber dust cover to the balljoint
(see illustration) and then refit the swivel hub
as described in Section 3.
6 Front lower suspension arm
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Working under the wheel arch, undo and
remove the single retaining screw and lift out
the upper suspension arm rebound rubber.
Position a solid packing piece of
approximately the same thickness in its place
(see illustration 3.1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheel.
10•6 Suspension and steering
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