Logikey K-3 KEYER
11
TUTORIAL
Logikey K-3
by
Idiom Press
Box 1025
Geyserville, CA 95441-1025
All Contents Copyright 1998
Getting Started
To use your K-3, you will need several cables. The paddle cable and the transmitter cable should be
shielded, with the shield used as ground. The K-3 requires 12 Volts DC. You will need a 2.5 mm power plug.
Be sure the plug is 2.5 mm; 2.1 mm plugs that look identical will not work! Most modern transceivers have a
12 volt DC accessory jack which is ideal. Otherwise an external supply is required. Before hooking up the
keyer, measure the voltage to be sure it is less than 14.5 volts, and is DC! DO NOT use hobby store wall
mounted transformers.
Note that on the dual output connector, the red jack is for solid state rigs, the white for tube rigs. DO NOT
use the K-3 keyer with cathode-keyed rigs without an isolating relay. (This normally applies only to rigs
made before 1970.)
When you apply power to your new keyer for the first time, if everything is working properly the keyer will
send a crisp "OK" in perfect Morse, telling you that it has run a built-in diagnostic routine, and has found
everything to be in order.
If the keyer does not thus respond, and everything is hooked up and powered properly, press buttons 1,3,4
and 6 down simultaneously, then release. This resets the keyer EEPROM. The keyer should now respond
with the "OK", and you can proceed. If not, refer to the trouble shooting section.
One thing the keyer does not know at start-up is the position of the speed control knob. To allow it to cali-
brate itself, turn the speed knob all the way clockwise and send a few dots, then turn it counterclockwise
and send a few more dots. All is now in order. The initial speed range of the keyer is set for 5 - 40 words per
minute. Later we will learn how to change that if we want.
Send some code from your paddle. Are the dot and dash reversed from where you want them? (Most right
handed operators prefer the left paddle for dots and the right paddle for dashes.) No problem! Simply press
buttons #2 and #5 down at the same time, and release. The keyer will send back in Morse a message "RV",
as in ReVerse. Now you will find that what was the dot side is now the dash side, and vice-versa. And it will
stay that way until you reverse it again by pushing those two buttons again. Now, adjust the speed to a
comfortable setting.
You say you are used to a Curtis type "A" timing, or to a keyer with no dot or dash memories, and already
you find you can't send code comfortably? Not to worry! We can fix that right now by using one of the emu-
lations. (if you like the feel of the keyer already, as most do, skip the next couple paragraphs.) To do so, first
look at the "V" function table printed in the Operating Manual printed on the back of this Tutorial. Select the
"V" setting you want to try. Now, follow these directions exactly. Later we will explain them, but right now
let's just do it. Let's suppose you want "V6", the Curtis "A" emulation.
Press buttons #1 and #2 down simultaneously, then release them. The keyer will respond by sending "I".
Now, using your paddle, send "V6". There. Now the keyer should feel comfortable. Easy, wasn't it? If you
made a keying mistake, the keyer sent a raucous "raspberry." No problem - just start over again, by pressing
buttons #1 and #2 again, then the "V6" after the "F" prompt.
If you have used keyers before, you will instantly notice the fluid smooth timing as the CW rolls off. Now, de-
crease the speed of the keyer. See how the speed control is linear? OK, the keyer is hooked up and working,
the dot side is where we want it. Now let's learn how to load a message into memory.
To Next Page
Loading...