This document is a service manual for a refrigerator, model WHS-185C1, providing comprehensive information for its maintenance and troubleshooting.
Function Description
The refrigerator is designed for household use, providing cooling and preservation of food items. Its core function relies on a refrigerating system that circulates refrigerant to cool the interior. Key components of this system include a compressor, condenser, dry filter, capillary tube, and evaporator, working in a sequence to achieve refrigeration. The compressor initiates the cycle, followed by the condenser, dry filter, capillary tube, and finally the evaporator, before returning to the compressor. An electrical control system, including a thermostat and control board, manages the operation of the refrigerating system to maintain desired temperatures.
Usage Features
The refrigerator is equipped with several features aimed at enhancing its performance and user experience:
- Energy efficiency: Designed to consume less power, contributing to lower operating costs.
- Micro foam technology: This likely refers to advanced insulation techniques that use micro-foams to improve thermal retention.
- Low noise operation: Engineered to run quietly, minimizing disturbance in the home environment.
- Thick insulation: Provides superior thermal insulation, further contributing to energy efficiency by reducing heat transfer.
- Latest No. 2 microbiological technology: This suggests the incorporation of features to inhibit microbial growth, helping to keep food fresher for longer and maintain a hygienic interior.
For safe operation, the appliance requires a 220-240V~/50Hz AC power supply. It is crucial to use an appropriate outlet with secure grounding, and the three-prong plug should never be altered. Users are advised not to damage the power cord, ensuring it is unplugged by grasping the plug firmly and not allowing the appliance to press against or tread on the cord. If the power cord or plug is worn, it must be replaced by a factory-authorized service shop. In case of a flammable gas leak, the gas valve should be closed, doors and windows opened, and no electrical units, including the refrigerator, should be plugged in. The appliance should be unplugged before cleaning, repairing, or replacing a damaged light bulb.
Users are strictly prohibited from placing hazardous, flammable, explosive, strong corrosive acid, or alkali articles inside the refrigerator. It is not intended for storing medicine, vaccines, or chemical reagents that require strict temperature control. Electrical plugs, regulators, or microwaves should not be placed on top of the refrigerator, and electric appliances (unless manufacturer-approved) should not be used inside. Playing in or around the appliance is discouraged to prevent damage or injury. Heavy or unstable articles, or water containers, should not be placed on top. When the freezer is running, direct contact with cold surfaces, especially when wet, should be avoided. Water should not be sprayed onto the unit, nor should it be placed in wet areas, to prevent damage to electrical insulation. Glass bottles should not be placed in the freezer compartment to prevent them from cracking. The appliance should not be dismantled or modified by unauthorized personnel. If the unit is to be discarded, the door and door gasket should be removed to prevent children from getting trapped.
Maintenance Features
The service manual provides detailed guidance for diagnosing and resolving various issues, emphasizing a systematic approach to troubleshooting.
General Checkup Essentials:
- Look:
- Inspect refrigerating system tubing for cracks and welded parts for leaks, noting any oil stains.
- Check compressor suction and exhaust pressure values.
- Examine frost conditions on the evaporator and gas return tube; abnormal conditions include no frost or frost on only one part.
- Assess the speed of temperature drop in the freezer compartment.
- Verify the suitability of the refrigerator's placement area.
- Inspect door seal, casing, surface, and thermal insulation layer.
- Observe the main control panel for normal indicator readings.
- Listen:
- Pay attention to compressor noises: rumbling after stopping (normal refrigerant flow), clicking at startup (deadweight start relay), slight uniform hum during operation (normal), hum due to overload (motor not starting), clattering (start contacts not releasing), whistling (high-pressure gas escaping), striking clunks (broken suspended spring).
- Listen for gas flow sounds in the evaporator when the door is open: gentle whistling with water-flowing sound (normal refrigerant circulation), only gas flowing sound (refrigerant percolated), no sound (filter or capillary clogged).
- Touch and Feel:
- After 5-10 minutes of compressor operation, feel the condenser: upper part hotter than lower part (or right hotter than left) indicates proper refrigerant circulation. A cold condenser suggests refrigerant leakage. A hot condenser that cools quickly indicates a clogged filter/capillary. Hot air blowing from a forced air-cooling condenser indicates a system fault.
- Feel the filter's temperature: slightly higher than ambient is normal. Condensation indicates a clogged screen due to throttling.
- Feel exhaust gas temperature: should be extremely hot during normal operation. No frost or condensation on the gas suction tube is normal for enclosed compressor systems (except for a short period at startup).
Troubleshooting Specific Problems:
- No Cooling: If the compressor runs after a power cycle, check for refrigerant leaks. If leaks are present, repair and recharge. If the compressor runs but the condenser cools slowly, it may be blocked by ice or debris; change the filter and refrigerant. If the compressor does not run, refer to the "Compressor does not work" chart.
- Compressor Does Not Stop: If the refrigerator refrigerates, but the cooling capacity is insufficient, check the thermostat setting, ambient temperature, proximity to heat sources, door opening frequency, and amount of food inside. If these are normal, check the main control panel. If the refrigerator does not refrigerate, refer to the "No cooling" chart.
- Cooling Capacity Insufficient: If the ambient temperature is below 60.8°F, check the thermostat. If the thermostat is correct, adjust usage. If the ambient temperature is not below 60.8°F, check for refrigerant leaks. If leaking, repair.
- Compressor Does Not Work: Check if the refrigerator light turns on when the door is opened. If not, check if the appliance is connected to a power source and repair if necessary. If the light turns on, check if the ambient temperature is below 60.8°F. If it is, adjust usage. If not, check if the control panel has a 220V power output. If it does, check if the compressor has a 220V power output. If both have power, check and repair the compressor and accessories. If the control panel lacks power, check and repair the control panel. If the ambient temperature is not below 60.8°F but the thermostat is incorrect, adjust usage.
Normal Refrigerator Functions (Sounds and Temperatures):
- Rumbling sound: After compressor stops, normal refrigerant flow in evaporator tubing.
- Clicking sound: At compressor startup, from deadweight start relay.
- Compressor motor sound: Slight, uniform hum during operation.
- Compressor temperature: Stator core and windings 212-230°F, piston/cylinder up to 212°F, casing 185-194°F (especially hot in summer).
- Cracking sound: In direct cool refrigerators, due to expansion/contraction from temperature changes; normal.
Common Problems and Remedies:
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Poor Refrigerating Effect:
- Refrigerant Leaks: Insufficient refrigerating capacity, lower gas suction/exhaust pressures, higher exhaust gas temperature, loud gas-flowing sound, little/no frost on evaporator. Solution: Locate and repair leaks, then recharge refrigerant.
- Too Much Refrigerant: Surplus refrigerant reduces heat-dissipation area, higher gas suction/exhaust pressures, hot condenser, rising compressor current, loose frost, slow temperature drop, frost on gas return tube, "liquid striking" in compressor. Solution: Release excess refrigerant, replace dry filter, evacuate, and recharge.
- Air Left in System: Reduced refrigerating efficiency, higher temperature from compressor outlet to condenser inlet, increased gas suction/exhaust pressures, intermittent/louder gas-flowing sound. Solution: Open tubing, evacuate, and recharge with refrigerant.
- Low Efficiency of Compressor: Reduced gas discharge/refrigerating capacity due to worn parts, increased clearance fits, deteriorated gas valve sealing. Solution: Measure high/low pressures. If abnormal sound or high temperature, check discharge port pressure.
- Thick Frost Layer on Evaporator: Reduced heat conduction, inability to reach ideal temperature. Solution: Defrost regularly by turning off, opening door, or using a fan. Avoid sharp tools.
- Refrigerating Oil in Evaporator Tubing: Reduced heat conduction, poor refrigeration effect. Solution: Examine frost; little/no frost suggests oil residue. Disassemble, purge, dry evaporator, or wash with refrigerant.
- Obstructed Flow in System: Clogged filter screen meshes, decreased flow rate, poor refrigerating effect, decreased gas discharge pressure, lower discharged gas temperature, condensation/frosting in clogged area. Solution: Purge tubing, replace/clean dry filter, recharge.
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No Refrigerating (Compressor Runs, but No Cooling):
- Entire Refrigerant Leaked Out: Easy compressor start, decreased operating current, increased gas suction pressure, decreased discharge pressure, cold gas discharge tube, no gas flow sound, no gas escapes from process tube. Solution: Locate and repair leaks, replace parts, evacuate, and recharge.
- Refrigerating System Clogged with Ice: Irregular refrigeration, frost at clogged area, evaporation temperature drops below 32°F, water accumulation in capillary, frost melts at evaporator, no gas flow sound, gas suction pressure becomes vacuum. Solution: Release refrigerant, purge with nitrogen, recharge with filtered refrigerant, or connect a filter with moisture absorbers.
- Refrigeration System Clogged with Dirt: Similar to ice clogging, but tapping suspicious points may cause partial flow, while heating does not. Solution: Dismantle, remove dry filter, purge with nitrogen, install new filter, evacuate, and charge.
- Clogged Filter: Buildup of paste-like matter, dust, or dirt; filter cooler than normal. Solution: Same as "Refrigerating system clogged with dirt."
- Broken Gas Suction and Discharge Valve Blocks: Compressor works but no discharge, abnormal sound (pieces striking cylinder), hot compressor casing, extremely high suction/discharge pressure with violently swinging gauge pointer. Solution: Stop compressor, check/repair/replace valve block.
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Compressor Suddenly Stops:
- Excessively High Gas Discharge Pressure:
- Excess Refrigerant: Loose frost, poor refrigerating effect, condensation on gas return tube, high gas discharge pressure activating protective relay. Solution: Open tubing, evacuate, and charge correct quantity of refrigerant.
- Air Left in System: Poor refrigerating effect, higher gas discharge pressure/temperature, protective relay activation. Solution: Determine how air entered (careless repair, incomplete purging, low-pressure leaks), open tubing, evacuate, and recharge.
- Broken Due to Electrical Issues:
- Thermostat Out of Order: Frequent stopping. Solution: Adjust temperature sensor position; if issue persists, disassemble, check, and repair thermostat.
- Overload of Electric Motor: Too many items, low power supply voltage causing high current, thermal protector activation, blown fuse, burned windings. Solution: Reduce thermal load, monitor power supply voltage.
- Abnormal Thermal Protection: Compressor current normal, but thermal protector activates repeatedly. Solution: Replace thermal protector.
- Blockage Due to Other Causes:
- Normal Stoppage: Thermostat shuts down compressor when desired temperature is reached. This is normal operation.
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Compressor Will Not Start:
- Power Supply Circuit: Power failure, poor switch contact, blown fuse. Solution: Check circuit input voltage with voltmeter/test pencil. If fuse blown, determine and remove cause, replace.
- Compressor Accessories: Damaged thermal protector (no power), faulty relay (motor hums but doesn't run, windings may burn out). Solution: Replace thermal protector/relay.
- Relay Contacts/Plugs: Poor contact causes motor to stop or hum. Solution: Check for perfect order and working condition.
- Circuit Voltage Abnormal: Voltage lower than rated value, motor difficult to start, humming. Solution: Measure voltage; if low, advise owner to use a stabilizer.
- Thermal Relay Contacts Open: Due to leakage of temperature-sensing agent. Solution: Remove relay cover, check contacts. Adjust temperature sensor, or replace thermostat if agent leaked.
- Motor Problems/Electrical Failings:
- Motor Windings Burned/Short-Circuited: Repeated fuse blowing, especially when light switch closed. Solution: Check terminals/casing for short circuits, measure resistance (low resistance or below 2 mega ohms indicates damage). Repair or replace motor.
- Faulty Control Relay: Overheating, burnouts, wear of contacts, poor electrical contact. Solution: Dismantle, repair, or replace control relay.
- Defective Electric Contactor in Thermostat: Damaged contactor, leaked temperature-sensing agent. Solution: Replace contactor.
- Loose Connections/Abnormal Electrical Circuits: Check terminals.
- Mechanical Problems in Compressor:
- Shaft Seizure: Poor lubrication, clogged oil line, impurities, copper plating.
- Piston Seizure: Small fit clearance, heat expansion.
- Symptoms: Compressor hums but doesn't start, thermal protective relay activates repeatedly. Solution: Replace compressor.
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Compressor Will Not Stop:
- Common Causes: Too much/densely packed food (poor ventilation, inadequate temperature sensing), high ambient temperature (poor ventilation/heat dissipation), control system out of order, refrigeration system issue.
- Temperature Set Incorrectly: Knob set to "coldest" for fast freezing, causing continuous running. Solution: Check/adjust temperature control knob.
- Thermostat Malfunctioning: Contacts cannot be released, causing continuous running. Solution: Dismantle, examine, replace thermostat.
- Evaporation Temperature Too High: Refrigerant leakage/clogging, insufficient refrigerating capacity, thermostat malfunction, continuous running. Solution: Recharge refrigerant if insufficient, disassemble clogged part, resolve high evaporation temperature.
- Damaged Thermal Insulation Layer/Door Seal: Deteriorated insulation, door seal not touching doorframe, rising temperature, continuous running. Solution: Check/repair damaged insulation. Repair/replace door seal/gasket if deformed or not closing tightly.
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Leakage Current:
- Slight Leakage Current: Tingling sensation when touching metal parts, test pencil lights up faintly. Caused by deteriorated electrical insulator due to dampness. Solution: Check grounding. If grounded, turn off, check insulation with voltmeter.
- Serious Leakage Current: Refrigerator electrically charged, test pencil lights up brightly, zero ohms resistance between power cord and casing. Caused by electrical problem, faulty wiring, or inverted live/neutral wires. Solution: Do not touch. Measure resistance. Check for blown fuse. Verify live/neutral wire connections.
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Strong Vibrations and Loud Noises:
- Refrigerator Placed Improperly: Uneven ground (unsteady, large vibrations/noises), improperly adjusted leveling screws. Solution: Level the refrigerator, adjust screws.
- Abnormal Noise from Compressor: Suspended springs out of balance/striking casing, worn parts. Solution: Hit casing with hammer/wooden block to identify source.
- Echo in Tubing and Loose Parts: Improperly laid/packed tubes, loose parts. Solution: Identify and secure.
The manual emphasizes that troubleshooting requires comprehensive analysis, as several issues may share common symptoms or occur simultaneously. It advises against hasty conclusions and encourages the aid of instruments for accurate diagnosis.
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