2/8
5. Solder capacitors C3 and C4.
Both of these capacitors are very small. C4 goes next to U2 and is marked 104. It is the very tiny capacitor with
narrowly spaced leads (2.5mm). C3 is marked 102 and has wider leads (5mm spacing).
6. Solder the variable resistor (VR1).
This part is easy to find – it's the square blue part with 3 leads and an adjustment screw. Solder one lead, then
make sure the component sits flat against the PCB before soldering the rest.
7. Solder the transistors.
First, solder Q1. It is marked J3303. It is very important to solder the correct transistors in the correct locations!
Make sure the flat spot of the transistor lines up with the markings on the PCB. You will need to bend the leads
slightly to get them into the holes. Don't push the transistors all the way down against the PCB – leave a few mm
gap.
Then solder Q2 and Q3, marked 3904. Make sure you put them in the right way!
8. Optional: If you want to log data or hack the kit, install the headers J5, J6, and J7.
J5 is the double-row header (2 rows x 3 pins).
J6 and J7 are a single row – you can break the supplied header strip into 1 strip of 3 and 1 strip of 6 pins.
You can break off the strips with pliers or use your wire cutters – be careful.
Make sure to install the headers with the shorter pins going into the PCB. When soldering the headers, it's a good
idea to solder one pin and then make sure the header is straight, then solder the rest of the pins.
You don’t need to clip the leads.
9. Solder capacitor C2 and the ceramic resonator X1.
C2 is marked 221K and sits up above the PCB a little bit.
X1 has three leads, is orange or blue and marked 8.00Y, 8.00M, 8.0MC, or 8.00S.
Both of these can be installed in either direction – they are non-polarized.
10. Solder the IC sockets for U1 and U2.
These pop into place and are easy to solder. Make sure the notch in the socket aligns with the notch in the
silkscreen on the PCB. You don't need to clip the leads, they are already very short.
11. Solder the inductor (L1).
L1 is the black cylinder marked 103. It can go in either way.
12. Solder the piezo (LS1).
This is the large, short cylinder with a hole in the middle. It can go in either way.
13. Solder the electrolytic capacitor C5.
C5 is the large, black capacitor with a white stripe on one side – that side is negative and goes away from the +
symbol on the PCB. Make sure you install this one in the right direction – it's polarized. Push it all the way down
against the PCB – you might have to wiggle the leads a little bit.
To Next Page
Loading...