Build Tips.
The X10 and XRS Manuals are both very thorough publications, but everyone
needs a little help sometimes. So this guide will try and cover some of those areas
that owners have experienced problems. This area of the guide may well be a lit-
tle late for some people who have purchased and built their cars already.
However, for those of you that have done your research, then this may well save
you some time and reduce your stress levels a little!
Where do we beign then?
The transmission seems as good a place as any, as that is where the build of the
car starts, and it is arguably the most difficult part of the build and the most
crucial part of the build.
There are a number of different suggestions of which is the best way to assemble
the Predator differentials, but the procedures described below are the best, I feel.
(and not just because one of them way Richard Weatherley, the cars designer
builds the transmission!)
The Differential.
OK, the differential is a vital part of the car, and it deserves a booklet all for itself!
We all know T.Tech are so confident in the strength of the transmission for the
X10 and XRS, that they have actually guaranteed it.
But, unsurprisingly, their are some limitations to that guarantee. So to ensure that
you build the perfect differential the first time, follow these directions and you
will have the smoothest, most reliable differential in any 1/10th scale off-road
model car. I built my differentials 12 months ago, and since setting them up I have
never had to adjust them since...
The description in Item 1 below is of the differential assembly, as written by
Richard Weatherley, so it’s worth following.
1) “...When I build a car I don't threadlock the screw, or degrease it. I build
the diff and adjust it, as described in the manual, then assemble it in to the
car and secure the gearbox tops. Place a drip of thin CA (tyre glue) onto a
1.5mm driver, and with the car on its side, carefully place the glue droplet
into the centre of short diff half. Effectively into the M2 hole where the diff
screw is, NOT THE THRUST RACE SIDE.
Enough glue gets around the threads of the M2 screw to stop it
from rattling loose, but it does not permanently bond it. Be careful with
the glue though, and after a few seconds to allow the glue to penetrate the
threads, remove any excess glue with tissue, before turning the car the
right way up again...”
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