launching or recovering the boat. If you pull on too much tension, then the jib
will not furl or unfurl easily.
10). Furl the jib by pulling the furling line on the starboard side under the aft end of
the foredeck. You will need to ensure that the jib sheet is slack.
11). Thread the mast gate control line around the front of the mast, through the
block, back around the front of the mast, pull it tight enough to limit forward
mast movement and jamb it in the cleat.
How to tune the mast before sailing.
Once the jib is hoisted and the rig tensioned, you should check the rig settings as
rigging lengths can vary and the shroud pin hole settings indicated above only give a
guideline. A good sailing tension is 150 – 180 kg measured on the jib luff wire. This is
a lot of tension and will require quite a strong pull on the tension system rope.
The mast should carry a significant amount of aft rake (approx 8350mm measured
from the mast tip to the top of the rudder gantry), which is determined by the position
of the pins through the main shrouds in the chainplates.
There should be at least 75-100mm of pre bend, which is controlled in the main part
of the mast by the spreader angle (angle the spreaders back to increase the pre
bend). Note, the spreaders are supplied in a “safe” mid range setting.
Alterations are made at the owner’s risk – moving the spreaders to extreme
forward settings may result in rig failure by the mast inverting downwind with
the spinnaker up.
The lower shrouds should allow the lower part of the mast to pre-bend. They should
not carry much tension until the mainsail has been hoisted and the kicker attached.
The lowers shrouds merely prevent excessive bend from the vang in the lower part of
the mast. Reduce tension in the lowers if they stop the mast from assuming a natural
curve from the pre-bend caused by the spreaders. Note that too much tension in
the lowers will encourage the mast to invert downwind, and this can lead to
mast failure.
N.B. The very first time you apply rig tension, you may hear some settlement
noise from the rig and hull (creaks, cracks, groans, etc.!). This is quite natural
and is because all of the separate components are “bedding in” and stretching
or moving “etc to their normal tensioned positions. After the first few sails, so
long as you stay within the parameters described above, this will stop.
Rigging the asymmetric spinnaker
12). Thread the spinnaker halyard in the following order:
From the mast, down through the block on the deck to starboard side of the
mast step, and aft through the halyard cleat on the starboard side at the front
of the keel case capping. (should be done when stepping mast see item 3)
Then, lead the halyard aft, through the block on the keel case capping,
through both holes in the centre console, and through the lead block on the
centre spine, and then through the block on the elastic take up system.
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