Refitting
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the
specified torque.
(b) Use a new O-ring on the high pressure
pipe connector.
(c) Refit and tension the drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
(c) Bleed the power steering gear as
described in Section 25.
27 Power steering fluid cooler -
removal and refitting
1
4-cylinder engine models
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the
engine, below the power steering fluid
reservoir and place absorbent rags under the
reservoir.
4 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
fluid cooler hose at the reservoir. Plug the
disconnected unions quickly to minimise fluid
spillage.
5 Locate the remaining hose-to-pipe
connectors and release the hose clips or
disconnect the pipe connectors as applicable.
6 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nuts and
remove the cooler.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed the
power steering gear as described in Sec-
tion 25 on completion.
V6 engine models
Removal
8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
9 Remove the side lights and the right-hand
headlight as described in Chapter 12. On early
models, remove the radiator grille as
described in Chapter 11.
10 Position a suitable container beneath the
front of the car, below the fluid cooler unions.
11 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
four fluid cooler hose connections, two at
each end of the cooler. Plug the disconnected
unions quickly to minimise fluid spillage.
12 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nuts
and remove the cooler.
Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the power steering gear as described in
Section 25 on completion.
28 Wheel alignment and
steering angles - general
information
4
1 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide positive steering and prevent
excessive tyre wear. Before considering the
steering/suspension geometry, check that the
tyres are correctly inflated, that the front
wheels are not buckled, and that the steering
linkage and suspension joints are in good
order, without slackness or wear.
2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors
(see illustration):
Camber is the angle at which the front
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front of the vehicle. “Positive
camber” is the amount (in degrees) that the
wheels are tilted outward at the top from the
vertical.
Castor is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the car. “Positive castor” is when the
steering axis is inclined rearward at the top.
Steering axis inclination is the angle (when
viewed from the front of the vehicle) between
the vertical and an imaginary line drawn
through the steering knuckle upper and lower
balljoints.
Toe setting is the amount by which the
distance between the front inside edges of the
roadwheels (measured at hub height) differs
from the diametrically opposite distance
measured between the rear inside edges of
the front roadwheels.
3 With the exception of the front and rear toe
setting, all other suspension and steering
angles are set during manufacture and no
adjustment is possible. It can be assumed,
therefore, that unless the vehicle has suffered
accident damage all the preset angles will be
correct. Should there be some doubt about
their accuracy it will be necessary to seek the
help of a Rover dealer, as special gauges are
needed to accurately check the suspension
and steering angles.
4 The front and rear toe settings are
adjustable, and two methods are available to
the home mechanic for doing this. One
method is to use a gauge to measure the
distance between the front and rear inside
Suspension and steering systems 10•19
28.2 Wheel alignment and steering angle
measurements
26.32b . . . and mounting bolt (arrowed)26.32a Power steering pump adjusting nut
(arrowed) . . .
10
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
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