The degree of tension in #33 Belt is determined by the location of #27 Idler Pulley
in 3/8" wide slot of #1H Segment. Sliding the Idler Pulley forward will decrease tension;
sliding it rearward will increase tension. When you have arrived at the position which
properly releases #33 Belt, you may then tighten the 3/8-16 x 1-3/4 Cap Screw holding #27
Pulley. (NOTE: When tightening this Cap Screw, hold #23 Handle to resist rotation and
check that when Cap Screw is "tight" the #23 Handle is parallel to bottom of Tractor.
In addition, we recommend that the "tension" on #33 Drive Belt be kept somewhat "loose"
initially as the Belt being new and not broken in, may be "sticky" and not willing to re-
lease its "wrap" on #32 Engine Pulley quite as quickly as it will later. NOTE: After
a few hours of use, you will notice the #33 Belt getting somewhat shiny and "broken-in";
at that time, you may reset the tension of #27 Idler Pulley to a finer degree and elimi-
nate any chance of the #33 Belt inadvertently jumping off its pulleys.
B. With #1K "Auxiliary Clutch" Handle released from its position in front of #1R Clip,
it will (under #41 Spring's tension) go rearward and thereby tighten #27 Idler Pulley
within #33 Drive Belt. With #33 Belt under tension, rotate the two #17 Belt Guides rear-
ward such that they are approximately 1/8" away from outside (or backside) of #33 Belt.
Tighten the two Cap Screws to hold the #17 Guides in this position. Similarly with #33
Belt under tension, align #32 Engine Pulley with #30 and 27 Pulleys; then tighten all
set screws.
Rotating the Crankshaft of Engine should now operate the #33 Main Drive Belt and cause
the top #21 Power Shaft to rotate clockwise (as viewed from right side of Body) and both
#15R and 15L Control Handles pushed forward, you should now have both left and Right
Tracks going forward. Also, conversely, when you pull back on both #15R and 15L Handles,
the Tracks should go rearward.
C. Following Manufacturer's instruction booklet, fill Engine with proper grade of oil
and Gas Tank with proper gasoline. Check that you have greased the "Zerk" fittings on
both #10 Bearings, #22 Rear Drive Wheels, and #25 Front Idler Wheels. Replace Engine's
Spark Plug and ignition wire. Mount #4 Rear Cover over the rear set of four 5/16-18
"studs" sticking out of the top of #1AL and 1AR Body Walls. In a similar manner, mount
the #3 Hood (square "cut-out" around #15 Handles) over its set of four forward 5/16-18
"studs". Secure Rear Cover and forward Hood with 5/16-18 "wide-flange" Wing Nuts -
hand tighten. Slip #35 Handgrips over end of each #15 Control Handle.
Operation:
A. Operator should now mount the Tractor and assume a comfortable sitting position.
At this time, he should familiarize himself with the controls: #42 Throttle Control,
#43 Choke Control, #lK "Auxiliary Clutch" Handle, #1R Clip and #15R and 15L Clutch
Control. Handles. (On electric start models, note the #6D Ammeter, #6E Ignition Switch
(Stop, Run and Start positions) and #6F Light Switch.)
B. Before starting, move Tractor away from people and immediate obstructions. Move #1K
"Auxiliary Clutch" Handle forward and behind #1R Clip to release the #27 Idler Pulley's
pressure on #33 Main Drive Belt. Pull up all the way on #42 Throttle Control. You must
in addition, pull up on #43 Choke Control for starting when cold.
C. To start 7 hp recoil start Engine: Turn #51 Ignition Switch to "on" position, grasp
"pull handle" firmly in right hand and pull up to start Engine. On 12 hp insert "key"
in #6E Ignition Switch and turn clockwise to start Engine; when Engine starts, release
Key (similar to starting a car.) With Engine running, set the respective Throttle and
Choke controls for smooth Engine operation at the particular temperature you are working
at.
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