spindle (25) and firmly tighten.
(7) Fit the first gear (40).
To complete the assembly. Insert the roller (32) into the quadrant in
position to receive the spindle for the footchange. Examine the gasket
(46) for blemish, locate it and refit the inner cover. Before finally tighten-
ing the clutch body lock ring (80) verify the operating lever (82) is in line
with the clutch cable entry, to ensure a straight pull on the inner wire.
Do not use force, if the cover does not go home easily, take it off and
find out why. Check the position of the pawl spring (88) and refit the
outer cover. Refill one pint of SAE 50 oil.
Replacing the footchange pedal spring. With the outer cover removed,
take out the quadrant (50) and the pawl spring behind it. Tap out the
footchange sleeve (52) and its washer (53), Remove two bolts (73) and lift
away the plate,
The position of the pedal spring assembled is shown in fig. 19.
CLUTCH—HEAVYWEIGHT
Three types of clutches have been used since 1957. The original design
had loose friction inserts in the clutch sprocket, also in the friction
plates. This type of clutch was used on all Heavyweight Models up to
1959, with the exception of the CSR Models, which were equipped with
the bonded type clutch.
All 1960-61 Models, use bonded type clutches.
For the 1962 season a heavy duty five-plate type clutch was introduced
for 650 c.c. CSR Models, which can be used on any earlier model.
The early type clutch can be converted by using the following com-
ponents:
1 Back plate 040584.
1 Clutch sprocket 040359.
4 Steel plates, plain 043191.
4 Friction plates 043192.
1 Friction plate 043193.
Clutch slip. To enable the clutch to function satisfactorily it is essential
to have clearance between the clutch push rod and the thrust stud. The
fact that there is play, or lost motion, at the handlebar lever end does not
guarantee there is clearance between the push rod and thrust stud.
To obtain the correct adjustment run down, as far as possible, the
clutch cable adjuster. Remove the chain case cap for the clutch. Release
the nut using a screwdriver, screw in the thrust stud until it just touches
the clutch push rod.
Unscrew the thrust stud half a turn then retighten the lock nut with
care to avoid the stud moving during this process. Now reset the cable
adjustment by unscrewing the adjuster, leaving
8" to x" free movement
between the outer cable and the adjuster.
If the fault prevails, take down the clutch and check the steel plates
for buckle. Put all these plates together and hold up to the light, which
will indicate if one or more of the plates are buckled, which reduces the
friction area.
New type steel plates are 'dimpled' to prevent buckling.
68
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