DeWalt DWS779 - Environmental Protection

15
ENGLISH
2. Align the pencil line with the edge of the blade’s shadow. You may
have to adjust the mitre or bevel angles in order to match the pencil
line exactly.
Basic Saw Cuts (Fig. A1, A2, P, Q)
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far
as possible and the rail lock knob
7
is tightened. This will prevent the saw
from sliding along its rails as the workpiece is engaged.
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by
ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence.
Straight Vertical Crosscut
1. Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, and hold the wood firmly on the
table
17
and against the fence
14
.
2. With the rail lock knob
7
tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the
trigger switch
24
.
3. When the saw comes up to speed, lower the arm smoothly and slowly
to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before
raising arm.
Sliding Crosscut (Fig. P)
When cutting anything larger than a 51 x 150mm (51 x 105mm at
45° mitre) workpiece, use an out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob
7
loosened.
Pull the saw out toward you, lower the saw head down toward the
workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out.
The saw may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage
to the workpiece.
Mitre Crosscut (Fig. Q)
The mitre angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere
from zero to 50° left or 60° right. Proceed as for a straight vertical crosscut.
When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51 x 105mm that
are shorter in length, always place the longer side against the fence.
Bevel Cut (Fig. A1, A2)
Bevel angles can be set from 49° right to 49° left and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between 50° left or 60° right. Refer to the Features and
Controls section for detailed instructions on the bevel system.
1. Loosen the bevel lock
31
, and move the saw to the left or right as
desired. It is necessary to move the fence
14
to allow clearance.
Tighten the fence adjustment knob
13
after positioning the fences.
2. Tighten the bevel lock firmly.
At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be
removed. Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Adjustments section for
important information on adjusting the fences for certain bevel cuts.
To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob
13
several turns and slide the fence out.
Grooving (Fig. A2)
Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop
28
, depth adjustment screw
27
and wing nut
26
to allow for groove cutting.
• Flip the grooving stop
28
towards the front of the saw.
• Adjust the wing nut
26
and depth adjustment screw
27
to set the
depth of the groove cut.
• Place a piece of scrap material of approx. 5 cm between fence and
workpiece in order to perform a straight groove cut.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, such as the
material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a
sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce
the desired results.

WARNING: Ensure that the material does not move or creep while
cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full
stop before raising arm. If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear
of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where
the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. B)

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An
unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to,
such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of
the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to
the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure
the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce
the risk of personal injury and workpiece damage.
Use the material clamp
35
provided with your saw. The left or right fence
will slide from side to side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring
clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and
shapes of material.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing
toward the back of the mitre saw. The groove on the clamp rod should
be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into
the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not
besecure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitre saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine
adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK
THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH
THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces (Fig. D)
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033 leg stands
37
to extend the
table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient
means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other
Four-Sided Projects (Fig. R, S)
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in FigureR.
Sketch 1 in FigureS shows a joint made with the bevel adjustment method.
The joint shown can be made using either method.
• Using bevel adjustment:
- The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90° corner.
- The mitre arm is locked in the zero position and the bevel
adjustment is locked at 45°.
- The wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table
and the narrow edge against the fence.
• Using mitre adjustment:
- The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surface against the fence.