This document is the owner's manual for Intrepid Yachts, specifically covering the Intrepid 9M and 35 models. It provides comprehensive information on commissioning, operation, maintenance, safety, and winterizing procedures for these sailboats.
The commissioning section outlines the steps required to prepare the yacht for its first launch. Intrepid dealers are responsible for a thorough and professional commissioning. The manual includes a detailed checklist to ensure all items are received in good order, and to identify any shortages or damaged goods. This checklist also serves as a warranty registration form, which must be returned to Intrepid Yachts.
Dealer's Commissioning Checklist
The checklist is divided into "Receiving Record," "Pre-Launch Checklist," "Post-Launch Checklist," "Engine Start-Up Checklist," "Rigging Checklist," and "Miscellaneous Checklist."
- Receiving Record: Verifies that all items on the receiving checklist were received in good order. Dealers must notify the factory within 10 days of receipt if there are any shortages or damaged goods.
- Pre-Launch Checklist:
- Visually inspect the underwater hull surface for damage from trucking or handling.
- Ensure through-hulls are tight and clear of foreign objects.
- Confirm all seacocks and valves are closed, and hose clamps are tight.
- Check propeller retaining nuts for tightness and cotter pin placement.
- Record propeller information: diameter (inches), pitch (inches), rotation (left or right hand), and number of blades (2, 3, or folding).
- Verify rudder swings freely.
- Adjust stuffing box packing.
- Post-Launch Checklist:
- Immediately after launching, check the bilge for water and inspect through-hulls and the stuffing box if water is present.
- Open seacocks one at a time and check for leaks.
- Check the stuffing box for a slow drip (approx. one drop every 10 seconds while running) to ensure lubrication.
- Verify battery switch and electrical system operation.
- Check battery electrolyte and charge level.
- Check head and bilge pump operation.
- Engine Start-Up Checklist: (Supplements the engine manufacturer's manual)
- Check engine and transmission oil levels and condition.
- Check belt tension on all belt-driven components.
- Ensure the cooling water intake seacock is open.
- Verify all clamps on the exhaust hose are tight (especially where it enters the water lock on Yanmar engines).
- Check engine mount nuts for tightness.
- Check shift and throttle cable connections and operation.
- With the coupling disconnected, check prop shaft alignment using feeler gauges (refer to manual for instructions and tolerances).
- Check prop shaft set screws and ensure they are wired in place.
- Start the engine according to manufacturer recommendations. If it fails to start, check for air in fuel lines and refer to the manual for bleeding directions.
- Immediately after starting, check for water coming out of the transom exhaust port.
- Check gauges and/or warning lights.
- Inspect the entire system for water, oil, fuel, or exhaust leaks. Note: sealers and paints may burn off, causing odor.
- Recheck the stuffing box.
- Report any unusual noises or vibrations to the factory immediately and do not continue to run the engine if present.
- Rigging Checklist:
- Check all fasteners on spars for tightness.
- Reeve halyards.
- Attach stays, shrouds, spreaders, and topping lifts.
- Check all clevis pins and cotter pins for security, and tape potential chafe points.
- Check wiring of combination deck and bow light, ensuring bulbs work.
- Step mast and rigging.
- Check rigging for length.
- Recheck all clevis and cotter pins for security, ensure turnbuckle locking nuts are secure, and tape potential chafe points.
- Tune rigging to proper tensions.
- Attach boom, sheets, blocks, oars, reefing lines, topping lifts, etc.
- Wire bow and deck lights.
- Miscellaneous Checklist:
- Fill water tank(s) and check all pumps and drains.
- Fill alcohol tank, check for leaks, and test stove operation.
- Water test ports and hatches.
- Recheck all through-hulls, valves, seacocks, hose clamps, hoses, and stuffing box.
- Final Steps:
- Bend on sails.
- Ensure interior appointments are complete.
- Verify optional equipment is installed and operational.
- Owner's packet, ship's papers, and ignition key given to owner.
- Checklist (warranty registration) ready for mailing to factory.
Warranty Notification Procedures
Owners should contact their Intrepid dealer for any problems or assistance after commissioning. Dealers are knowledgeable professionals familiar with the boat and can address most questions. They will communicate problems to Intrepid Yachts for an expeditious solution. Dealers are not authorized to approve repairs or parts replacement without express written approval from Intrepid Yachts.
Operation and Maintenance
This section provides instructions for the structural and functional systems of the yacht, serving as a guide for operation and maintenance.
Hull and Deck
- 2.1-1 Construction: Intrepid Yachts are built using glass-reinforced-plastic (fiberglass) with polyester resins, known for strength and low maintenance. The hull, deck, bunkliner, and headliner are the four main fiberglass components. Hulls are fabricated in layers of gel coat, mat, and woven roving, with varying ply numbers. Decks use a similar system but incorporate end-grain balsa core for stiffness. The bunkliner is securely bonded to the hull along the keel cavity.
- 2.1-2 Maintenance: Fiberglass gel coat requires proper care to maintain its new appearance. Regular washing with mild soap and fresh water, followed by a good quality fiberglass cleaner (paste form) and marine wax/polish, is recommended. Gentle abrasives can remove minor scratches. Stubborn stains may be removed with fiberglass cleaner or mild abrasive powder like Bon Ami, or carefully with acetone for tar/petroleum stains.
- "Spider cracks" are common gel coat occurrences, usually not structural. Consult a dealer for serious cracks. Minor gel coat repairs can be done by a handy person; structural repairs require experts.
- For painting areas other than the bottom or boot top, seek advice from qualified boatyard personnel on chemically-based paints and surface preparation.
- 2.1-3 Bottom Paints: Intrepid Yachts are factory-painted with Dolphinite #9303 Dark Blue anti-fouling bottom paint. Areas under cradle bulkheads and keel supports may need additional painting after sanding with 50-grit paper and solvent washing. When repainting, consult a dealer or local boat owners for effective brands, and ensure chemical compatibility with the existing vinyl-resin based Dolphinite paint.
- 2.1-4 Hardware: Deck hardware is engineered for its purpose and bolted through the deck with back-up reinforcement. Fasteners should be checked frequently for tightness, avoiding overtightening. Silicone-type products keep tracks running free. Sheaves should be disassembled, washed, and lubricated with thin oil occasionally. Stainless steel hardware (turnbuckles, stanchions, rails) will discolor in salt air; regular cleaning and polishing with marine wax prevents rust stains. Winches require regular lubrication (light grease every three months) and annual dismantling, cleaning, and inspection. Winches should be covered when not in use.
- 2.1-5 Mast Step: Mast step areas are engineered to transmit rigging loads evenly to the hull. Deck-stepped masts use a compression member to transmit load to the keel. Keel-stepped masts have localized reinforcement. Mast step castings are drilled and tapped into a metal plate bedded in the glass laminate.
Spars and Rigging
- 2.2-1 Spars: Masts, booms, and optional spinnaker poles are made of high-grade extruded aluminum, anodized for protection. Anodizing is semi-permanent and may diminish over years, allowing for protective paint or film application. Aluminum masts require minimal care. When removed for winter, wash thoroughly with fresh water. Inspect for tangles, fouling, and corrosion. Clear mast step drain holes. Waxing helps preserve anodizing. Check cleats and fittings for tightness and corrosion. Avoid iron fastenings on aluminum to prevent electrolytic decomposition. Examine tang fittings for shrouds and spreaders, and all fittings at the masthead. Check main and jib halyard sheaves for wear or jamming. Inspect the boom, gooseneck fittings, sheet blocks, and bales. Check the combination bow and deck light; change bulbs annually and carry spares. Inspect spreaders for damage; they should angle slightly upward and be covered with chafe tape or boots. DO NOT sail with defective spreaders or spars.
- 2.2-2 Rigging: Standing rigging (shrouds and stays) supports the mast; running rigging hoists/trims sails. Standing rigging failures are often due to lack of attention, poor tuning, or improper maintenance.
- Before stepping the mast each season, inspect all standing rigging. Check upper shroud and stay tangs, ensuring clevis pins are secured with cotter pins. Clean shrouds and stays with bronze wool dipped in water/detergent to catch broken wires, then apply a water-dispersing agent.
- Ensure spreaders are firmly fastened and upper shrouds are locked in place on the grooved end of the spreader with stainless steel wire. Use chafe gear on spreader tips. Check mast tangs, clevis pins, and cotter pins for lower shrouds and stays. Lower shroud tangs allow movement, so do not overtighten.
- Reeve halyards properly before stepping the mast (main halyard to starboard, jib halyard to port).
- Inspect standing rigging for broken wires, rust spots, and secure clevis/cotter pins. Examine swaged terminal fittings with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks. Sealing swages with beeswax is common in southern latitudes, but Intrepid Yachts does not recommend oiling/greasing as it covers turnbuckles that need frequent inspection.
- Report defective fittings to your dealer. Replace kinked wire, wire with broken strands, cracked swage fittings, bent turnbuckles, stripped threads, worn clevis pins, or distorted tangs. Investigate reasons for defects.
- After inspection, step the mast and secure standing rigging to chainplates. Upper shrouds attach directly athwart from the mast step; lower shrouds attach fore and aft of the upper.
- Running rigging (Dacron) requires protection from chafe and UV rays. Stow in neat coils. Rinse with fresh water at season end.
- 2.2-3 Turnbuckles:
- Intrepid 9 Meter: Equipped with closed-body integral-toggle stainless steel turnbuckles. Before every sail, check proper adjustment (see Tuning section) and ensure they are locked with tight lock nuts. Tape threaded sections to indicate loosening. Some skippers use stainless steel seizing wire as backup. Threads on studs and barrels are left and right handed. Carry spare locking nuts. Disassemble and inspect turnbuckles completely during the season (not under strain). Shroud turnbuckles can be inspected one at a time.
- Intrepid 35: Equipped with open body integral turnbuckles. Insert and spread cotter pins. Tape threaded sections and cotter pins after final adjustments.
- For headstay and backstay turnbuckle inspection, use halyards as temporary stays.
- Disassemble turnbuckles: back off locknut, remove hexagonal end plate, pull shaft from housing (do not use force). Clean old grease, replace with new, reassemble, tightening end plate until mechanism does not turn. Apply thin lubricant between end plate and locknut. Perform this out of water.
- Inspect all threads for breakage, wear, rust, or metal breakdown. Locking nuts should rotate freely. Lubricate ends, barrel, and locking nuts with waterproof grease before assembly.
- Refer to Spartan Marine Products insert for maximum turnbuckle opening ("Y" dimensions). Center turnbuckle barrels by measuring exposed threads.
- 2.2-4 Tuning: The goal is to adjust the sail plan's center of effort for a slight weather helm in moderate winds and to keep the mast straight. This should only be attempted by qualified personnel.
- Check fore and aft mast alignment against a vertical structure when the boat is on its design waterline. Adjust turnbuckles by easing the side the mast is leaning towards and taking up on the opposite side. Never use excessive force. Prevent the upper threaded turnbuckle stud from turning. Headstays and backstays should "give" an inch or so with moderate force.
- Upper shrouds should be equally tightened with about an inch of "give." Forward lower shrouds should have 1-2 inches of "give," and aft lowers slightly more.
- Crucially, never over-tighten rigging to "bar tight" tension, as this can severely damage the mast and boat.
- Fine-tune rigging after sailing, especially after strong winds. While sailing close-hauled, sight up the mast track to check for curve (falling off to leeward or windward). Repeat on opposite tack.
- If the masthead falls off on both tacks, forward lower shrouds are too tight, and upper shrouds are too loose. If the masthead hooks to windward, the upper shroud is too tight relative to the lower on the same side.
- Forward lower shrouds bear more load to windward, but aft lower shrouds should never be loose. All shroud tuning should be done from the leeward side, duplicating adjustments on both sides if the rig is initially balanced.
- Ensure all locknuts are tightened and cotter pins/rings are in place, with sharp edges taped.
- 2.2-5 Sheets: Swapping sheets end-for-end extends their life by distributing wear from sheaves or cam cleats.
Sails
- 2.3-1 Sail Attachment: Mainsail luff has plastic slugs inserted into the mast track; close the gate and install the cotter pin. Insert plastic slugs at the foot into the boom sail track.
- Adjustable Outhaul System (9 Meter only): A single block with a becket is attached to the boom end. The outhaul line attaches to the becket, runs through the clew grommet, and back through the single block, providing stronger, tighter outhaul. Use to trim the foot of the sail.
- Intrepid 35 Outhaul System: A four-part internal outhaul system installed at the factory. Servicing requires removing a 3/8" bolt through the boom and the outhaul casting.
- Adjustable Boom Topping Lift (9 Meter only): A 1/4" bolt runs through the eyesplice attaching the topping lift to the masthead. The adjuster is knotted/spliced to the boom end, runs through a single block, and leads to a cheek block on the starboard side of the boom, cleating fast.
- Intrepid 35 Topping Lift: Similar to the 9 Meter, but the becket block is attached to the topping lift, and both a single block and a cheek block are attached to the boom for greater mechanical advantage.
- 2.3-2 Reefing Mainsail: "Jiffy Reefing" (also known as California Reefing, Slab Reefing, or Jiffy Reefing) is used. The manual emphasizes: "IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT WHETHER OR NOT TO REEF, IT'S TIME TO DO IT." Being over-canvassed is hard on crew and boat, potentially dangerous, and doesn't increase speed.
- Jiffy Reefing is a traditional method of shortening sail. It's easier if the main is raised to full height first.
- Reeve reefing lines through luff and leech cringles. Pull the tack down to the boom and make fast to the mast cleat. Haul on the clew line, pulling the clew down aft and making fast to the boom cleat. The key is sufficient tension on the sail's foot.
- Use 18" lengths of 1/4" line through reef "points" in the mainsail, under the foot, and tie in a reef knot to keep unused sail out of the way and reduce windage.
- To shake out the reef: release lines through reef points, stow them, release reef lines from clew and tack cringles, then hoist the mainsail until the luff is tight.
- The topping lift may need adjustment during reefing. It should have some play normally, but can be taken up before reefing, then slacked when complete.
- Reefing is desirable when heeling over 20° or needing to slow the boat in heavy airs. When going off-wind, the boat may sail well under headsails alone, as a reefed main can blanket them.
- The manual includes an explanation of "Quick Reefing" from Schaefer Marine Products, detailing methods A and B with diagrams. Method A involves releasing the halyard, tightening the reef tack downhaul, then tightening the main halyard and reef clew outhaul. Method B simplifies this with a gooseneck hook for the reef tack and a sliding loop for the clew.
- 2.3-3 Sailcare: Protect sails from chafe by padding spreaders/gear or installing chafe patches. Inspect frequently for chafed stitching or small tears. Carry a ditty bag with sail maker's tools. Protect from sunlight to prevent dacron and stitching breakdown. Dry sails before folding to prevent mildew. Fold sails after each use to retain shape; relieve outhaul tension on mainsail before folding. After the season, inspect, service, remove stains, and gently wash with mild soap.
- 2.3-4 Battens: Thin wooden or fiberglass stiffeners support the outward curved leach of boomed sails. Insert the thin edge first into the batten pocket. Store battens flat to prevent twisting/warping. Remove battens when the mainsail is furled.
- 2.3-5 Optional Sails: A 150% genoa is recommended as the first addition for more power and speed in lighter winds, especially upwind. Intrepid Yachts offers genoa and genoa gear packages. Carefully select spinnakers or other sails and equipment with dealer assistance.
Bilge Pump
Intrepid Yachts are equipped with a permanently installed diaphragm-type bilge pump, located in the cockpit, operated by a removable handle inserted into a through-deck fitting. This allows pumping with hatches closed. Water is carried from the bilge to the pump via a reinforced plastic hose with a strainer, which should be checked and cleaned frequently. The pump discharges overboard near the transom.
- The pump is designed for debris but can clog with excessive solid matter. If it fails to prime, check the pick-up hose position, then the pump body for debris. The rubber diaphragm can be removed by loosening the stainless steel clamp to inspect flapper valves. Reassemble and continue pumping.
- Pump the bilge before casting off and upon returning to check for unusual water intake.
- If installing an electric bilge pump, consult an expert on wiring and plumbing.
Plumbing Systems
The yacht's plumbing systems are simple.
- 2.5-1 Fresh Water Tanks:
- Intrepid 9 Meter: One 30-gallon tank under the port main cabin berth. Water fill is amidships outboard of the hanging locker on deck.
- Intrepid 35: Two 30-gallon polypropylene tanks under the main cabin berths (port and starboard). Water fills are deck-mounted.
- All Intrepid water tanks have a vent hose that also serves as an overflow to the bilge. Water is fed to manual pumps at sinks via PVC hose.
- If water stands for extended periods, it may develop odor. If flushing doesn't work, use a mild baking soda solution for several hours, then flush thoroughly.
- 2.5-2 Pumps: Foot-operated fresh water pumps in the galley and head are self-priming. If a pump fails, check for water in the tank, then for kinks or constrictions in the hose. If the hose is clear, disassemble the pump to inspect the internal check valve.
- 2.5-3 Head: Both models come standard with a marine head and a 24-gallon bow holding tank with dockside discharge provisions (overboard discharge is optional). Refer to the manufacturer's operating and maintenance instructions.
Through-Hulls, Valves and Seacocks
Intrepid yachts have bronze, flanged through-hull fittings with valves immediately adjacent to shut off water flow if a hose fails.
- Before each launching and every time leaving mooring/dock, check through-hull nuts for tightness, seacocks for proper operation, and hose clamps for tightness/condition. Seacocks provide a positive means to stop water flow into the hull.
- Check that seacock handles move through their full arc and that sinks, toilets, and cockpits drain easily.
- 2.6-1 Seacocks: Seacocks are designed to reliably open and close holes below the waterline. They are essentially round tapered bronze shafts with a hole, rotating 90° to open/close. They are less prone to jamming with seaweed.
- Routine maintenance involves disassembling them when the boat is out of water, applying waterproof grease to friction-bearing parts, and reassembling. Disassemble one at a time.
- To disassemble: back off locknut, remove hexagonal end plate, pull shaft from housing (do not force). Clean old grease, apply new, reassemble, tightening end plate until mechanism does not turn. Apply thin lubricant between end plate and locknut.
- Work seacocks frequently to prevent corrosion and jamming.
- Leave seacocks for head, galley sink, and engine intake closed when leaving the boat. Establish a routine for opening/closing to prevent engine overheating or burst hoses.
- If water enters and a seacock is inoperable, use a wooden plug, rags, or clothing to slow/stop the flow.
Steering Gear
- Tiller Steered Intrepid Yachts: Maintenance is simple. Lubricate the rudder post bearing with waterproof grease. Check the condition of the key and keyway on the rudder shaft and the tiller cap. If the tiller cap is removed, ensure the key is in the keyway and the cap slides on with light pressure. Do not hit the cap with a hammer or metal object to avoid damage.
- Wheel Steered Boats: Refer to the steerer manufacturer's maintenance and usage information.
Electrical System
- 2.8-1 Battery:
- Intrepid 9 Meter: One 65 amp-hour 12-volt marine battery in the engine compartment.
- Intrepid 35: Two 65 amp-hour 12-volt marine batteries in the engine compartment.
- Batteries are enclosed in break-resistant non-conductive cases. All Intrepid Yachts are negative ground.
- Batteries are relatively maintenance-free. Keep terminals clean and corrosion-free, and electrolyte at the proper level for trouble-free service.
- Caution: Avoid spilling battery electrolyte into the bilge or getting salt water in the battery. If this occurs, ventilate well due to poisonous gas.
- 2.8-2 Battery Switch: Intrepid Yachts have a battery switch to accommodate dual batteries, common for cruising auxiliaries. One battery is reserved for engine starting. After starting, the alternator charges the starting battery, then the switch is thrown to the other battery for charging. NEVER TURN THE BATTERY SWITCH TO THE OFF POSITION WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, as this can seriously damage the alternator or regulator.
- 2.8-3 Instrument Panel: Every Intrepid Yacht has an electrical distribution panel with toggle switches and circuit breakers. If a breaker trips (protruding with a red band), turn off the circuit, push the breaker back in until the red band is not visible.
- A sensitive voltmeter monitors battery condition, activated by a toggle switch. The scale is clearly marked to prevent running the battery down.
- A red pilot light is wired directly to the battery switch, always on when the switch is not in the off position. It helps confirm the switch is off before leaving and provides illumination for reading circuit labels at night. Its drain on the battery is negligible.
- Panels attach to the wiring harness via a multi-prong plug. To remove the panel, remove screws, disconnect battery wires, common, ground, and the multi-pronged connector.
- Activate only necessary circuits to conserve battery charge. Turn off all circuits when leaving the boat, unless an electric bilge pump needs to remain on.
- Wiring for lighting circuits is twisted AWG #16. Engine starter motor wiring and ground wire are AWG #3 (ground) and #4 (positive).
- 2.8-4 Lightning Ground: The Intrepid has a lightning ground system connecting shroud and stay chainplates to an underwater metal plate using AWG #8 wire. Exercise caution during lightning storms; refrain from touching large metal objects.
Engine and Propulsion System
Refer to the engine instructional manual.
- Suggestions:
- Familiarize yourself with starting, running, and stopping procedures.
- Use clean, water-free fuel and keep filters clean.
- Treat diesel fuel with respect as it is flammable.
- Do not put gasoline in the fuel tank; use only marine, water-free diesel fuel oil.
- Ensure fuel is in the fuel tank and water in the water tank.
- Verify cooling water exits the transom exhaust port, the cooling water seacock is open, and the screen is free of growth/debris.
- Follow engine manufacturer's winterization procedure.
- Refer to section 3.3 for fueling practice.
- Read the engine owner's manual carefully.
- 2.9-1 Propeller Shaft Alignment: Extremely important for diesel auxiliary performance. Engines are factory-aligned but may shift during transport or launching. Dealers must recheck alignment after launching and before starting the engine. Alignment should be checked and adjusted annually or if vibration occurs.
- To check: Place propeller shaft flange and reverse gear flange together, ensuring the guide locates properly. With flanges pressed together, check parallelism with a .002” feeler gauge. The gauge must not enter between flanges at any point. Turn flanges 360° while checking. If a gap of more than .002” exists, the engine must be repositioned.
- When reassembling, ensure the key is properly inserted and set screws are wired in place.
Interior Maintenance
Periodic cleaning is essential. Choose sunny, breezy days for cleaning to air cushions.
- 2.10-1 Cushions: Cloth-covered nylon fabric cushions can be cleaned with a 50/50 Lestoil/water solution, sponged in, rinsed with clear water, and blotted dry. Ensure thorough drying, ideally outside in the sun.
- 2.10-2 Ice Box: Designed to drain melted ice through scuppers into the bilge. Use a name-brand bilge cleaner every 3-4 weeks to address food particles/juices. Alternatively, fit a plastic jug to the drain hose and periodically empty it.
- Do not leave food in a closed ice box without ice to prevent spoilage/odors. Clean out the ice box after each sail/cruise. Remove the cover for drying. Clean fiberglass interior with water and bleach solution to prevent mildew/odors.
- 2.10-3 Ports: Clean with household window cleaner and a soft cloth. Do not use strong solvents on Plexiglas.
- 2.10-4 Stainless Steel Sinks: Clean with stainless steel cleaner or a non-abrasive cleaner and soft cloth/sponge.
- 2.10-5 Head: Clean plastic seat and vitreous china bowl with a non-abrasive cleanser and sponge/soft cloth.
- 2.10-6 Interior Wood Surfaces: Oil interior wood trim and paneling periodically with a good quality teak oil.
- 2.10-7 General: Do not wash dirt/hair into the bilge to avoid clogging the bilge pump strainer. Use a dust pan. Raise locker covers when leaving to permit ventilation and prevent mildew. Ensure locker scuppers are not clogged and remove excess moisture.
- 2.10-8 Stoves: Intrepid yachts come with a galley stove. Read the manufacturer's manual and ensure all users understand operation. Alcohol fires can be extinguished with water or Type B extinguishers.
- Precautions (for all stove types):
- Never leave lighted stove unattended.
- Never leave a hot stove unattended; alcohol can burn with an invisible flame.
- Always release fuel tank pressure when leaving.
- Close fuel valve in emergencies.
- Exercise caution when priming burners; improper priming is a common cause of galley fires.
Maintaining Teak
Teak above deck is sanded and oiled at the factory. Exposure to sunlight and drying causes it to grey and eventually split/lift. Teak is not maintenance-free but is easy to maintain. Use good quality teak cleaning and sealing preparations. Teak can also be varnished (3-6 initial coats, then reapply mid-season and before winter layup). Follow manufacturer's directions for marine varnish.
Safety and Equipment
Federal regulations require specific safety equipment (personal and throwable flotation devices, fire extinguishers, horn, whistle, etc.). Know what is required and have it properly stowed. The U.S. Coast Guard provides additional information.
- Recommended additional items (not required):
- Appropriate anchor and rode.
- First-aid kit.
- Compass.
- Paddle.
- Flashlight.
- Up-to-date charts.
- 3.1 Fire Extinguishers: Not standard equipment; provided by owner. Fire is a serious hazard. Install U.S.C.G. approved fire extinguishers of appropriate type and size immediately. Locate them in easily accessible areas (engine, fuel tanks, galley). At least one in a cockpit locker (reachable from outside) is recommended.
- 3.2 Fueling: Follow safety precautions before, during, and after fueling. Refer to engine manufacturer's instructions.
- Approach fuel docks at reasonable speed without wake. Observe posted limits. Maintain control and have dock lines ready.
- Secure boat with bow, stern, and spring lines.
- Close and secure all hatches and ports.
- FORBID SMOKING on or near fuel docks. Extinguish all smoking materials well in advance.
- Extinguish all open flames aboard and turn off all equipment (engine, stove, heater, radios, lights). Turn off all branch circuit switches. Main switch should be turned off AFTER engine is stopped (to prevent alternator damage).
- Crew not involved in fueling should leave the boat.
- Have an adequate (U.S.C.G. approved Class B) fire extinguisher readily available.
- Remove fill fitting. Confirm fuel is going into the fuel tank. Note approximate amount needed via gauge or stick.
- Double-check that the correct fuel is being taken on to prevent engine damage.
- Maintain contact between fuel hose nozzle and fill pipe rim to prevent static electricity sparks.
- Fill slowly to about 85% capacity (allowance for thermal expansion). Do not overfill.
- Replace and secure fill fitting. Clean any spillage. Check fuel tank vents for overflow. Check below decks and in bilge for fumes/leakage. Ventilate and clean areas completely before proceeding.
- Open all ports and hatches fully for ventilation.
- Do not fuel during electrical storms. Avoid fueling at night or in rough water, except in emergencies with extreme caution.
- Diesel fuel is flammable; handle cautiously.
- 3.3 Weather Forecasts: U.S. Coast Guard is discontinuing weather signals, favoring NOAA weather broadcasts (WX-1: 162.40 MHz, WX-2: 162.55 MHz). Good seamanship requires checking VHF weather forecasts regularly.
- 3.4 Boating Safety Organizations: Several non-profit organizations teach seamanship and piloting, including the United States Power Squadron (U.S.P.S.) and United States Coast Guard Auxiliary.
- 3.5 Charts: Complete and up-to-date charts are essential. The Coast Guard constantly updates aids to navigation. Check NOAA Chart Distributors for latest editions and corrections before any trip outside home port.
Winterizing
Winterizing is a relatively simple procedure, assuming dry storage. If wet storing, take precautions against water freezing in engine and plumbing systems.
- 4.1 Blocking the Hull: Boatyard should properly support the hull, with weight resting on the keel. Cradle bulkheads balance the boat, not bear its weight. Show the boatyard the hull profile for proper crane/hoist strap positioning.
- 4.2 Ice Box: Clean thoroughly and leave open.
- 4.3 Stove: Clean thoroughly, including burners. Release pressure in fuel tank and leave tank empty.
- 4.4 Electrical System: Remove battery(s) and store in a warm, dry location off concrete/stone. Fully charge before storing or leave on trickle charge.
- The electrical system requires little maintenance. Remove bulbs and spray light fixtures with water dispersant (WD40, CRC). Treat main switch and fuse panel similarly to minimize corrosion.
- 4.5 Propeller and Shaft: Examine propeller for damage/nicks. If found, remove and true.
- Separate the shaft coupling from the engine and store it to prevent strain on the shaft due to hull shape changes in the cradle. This also serves as a reminder to re-align the shaft in spring.
- 4.6 Head: Follow manufacturer's directions. Remove all water to prevent freezing.
- 4.7 Water Tanks: Pump tank(s) as dry as possible. Add a non-toxic water system winterizer (from a marine hardware store). Caution: Do not use anti-freeze or other poisonous substances. Pump this solution through the entire fresh water and drain system.
- 4.8 Engine: Follow engine owner's manual instructions. Disconnect engine cooling water intake and reconnect after ensuring no water remains in the line.
- 4.9 Fuel Tanks: Best to store empty to prevent condensation. Completely filled tanks leave old fuel and possible gum deposits in spring. Consult dealer/shipyard for recommendations on preventing gum deposits.
- 4.10 Covering: Store the boat under cover to protect teak trim and prevent gel coat stress cracks from freezing water. If using a durable boat cover, open ports for air circulation below decks.
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