4
◊ Glue the three piece upper F13a, F13b, F13C and F16 lower 2.5 mm balsa
sheeting to the fuselage.
◊ Sand the entire fuselage (with the F11 hatch in place) so the tail end inc-
luding the F21 ring ts smoothly the tail boom.
Wing
◊ The wing is to be built directly on the building plan protected by a sheet of
thin clear plastic lm. The wing ribs and riblets are supplied with jig tabs
on the bottom side to allow building the wing with undercambered pro-
le on a at surface; in the same time producing the washout (the wing
trailing edge is higher by 3 mm at the tips than at the root) necessary for
stable ight of the model. DO NOT CUT the mounting jigs; they will
be removed only after the entire wing has been built. There is also
the rib spacing jig to set the leading edge ends of rib and riblet mounting
jigs correctly. (Fig. 12)
◊ Epoxy together the wing central ribs W5 and W6; insert 3 mm beech
dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match. Note: Make a
left and right pair of assemblies. (Fig. 9)
◊ Glue the plywood reinforcement plate W39 (for the W64 DLG pin) into
the wing tip W35 and then the wing tip to the trailing edge W30 on a at
working surface; glue the W36 and W37 reinforcement plates in place
creating a notch for the plywood wing tip spar W38. (Fig. 10 + 11)
◊ Thread all the wing ribs and riblets W3 to W32 onto the main spar carbon
tube W60; use a round le to trim the openings in the ribs to set the ribs in
the required angle. Thread the auxiliary carbon rod spar W61 through the
respective holes in W3 to W12 ribs. (Fig. 12)
◊ Put the main spar with ribs onto the building plan and insert the ends of
ribs into the corresponding notches in the trailing edge W44 (W45 for
the right wing half). Insert the front ends of the rib jig tabs into the corre-
sponding notches of the rib spacing jig. Align all the parts to the correct
position over the building plan; pin down where necessary and then glue
the ribs W4 to W31 to the W60 main spar tube, W61 auxiliary spar and
the trailing edge. Epoxy the wing tip spar W38 into the main spar tube
and to the wing tip into the notch between the W36 and W37 reinforce-
ment plates. Glue the wing tip to the W32 rib and nally the W32 rib to
the main spar and trailing edge. Glue the balsa gusset W33 between the
W32 rib and W31 riblet.
◊ Glue the root rib W3 using the root rib dihedral jig in place. (Fig. 13)
◊ Trim the notches for the leading edge W46 (3 mm beech dowel) in the
ribs and riblets as necessary. Glue the leading edge (starting from the
wing tip and then rib by rib towards the wing root). (Fig. 14)
◊ Insert the W47 rear spar and the W48 aileron leading edge into the co-
rresponding notches in ribs W4 to W32. Align them both ush with the
upper edge of the ribs but do not glue yet.
◊ Glue the W51 aileron servo frame together with the W52 upper cover
plate between the W12 and W14 ribs from above (the opening in the
frame ts KAVAN GO-06MG servos; you might have to trim it if other ser-
vos are used). Glue the aileron W62 root and W63 tip ribs in place - to
the W48 aileron leading edge and W44(45) trailing edge ONLY. Glue the
W50 aileron horn block between the W12 and W14 ribs; ush with the
upper edge of the ribs and the W48 aileron leading edge. (Fig. 15+16)
◊ Glue the W34 reinforcement plate between W30 and W32 ribs, glue the
W40 and W41 reinforcements to the wing tip, and glue the two W49 gu-
ssets in place. (Fig. 17)
◊ Epoxy the plywood wing joiner bay plates W43 into the W3, W4 and W5/
W6 ribs - be sure the bay will accommodate the W42 wing joiner nicely.
(Fig. 20)
◊ Thoroughly check the entire wing, you are almost there; the wing sports
the required 3 mm washout at the tip due to the rib mounting tabs now.
Once satised, apply cyano to all joints. Note: The W47 rear spar and the
W48 aileron leading edge are supposed to be glued to the ribs ONLY, not
to each other!
◊ Now you can carefully cut the rib jig tabs using a sharp modeller’s knife.
◊ Soak the W51 aileron servo frame and W52 plate with thin cyano or
thinned epoxy from the inside. Glue the W53 bottom aileron servo cover
between the W12 and W14 ribs. (Fig. 18)
◊ Sand the bottom side of all ribs and riblets to shape with No. 120 sand
paper.
◊ Glue the bottom wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W57 (with a rectan-
gular opening for the aileron servo cable) and W58 in place; glue the ply-
wood reinforcement plate W54 on the top of W58 along the area of the
wing xing bolt. (Fig. 19+20)
◊ Thread a thick sewing thread through rectangular openings for the ai-
leron servo cable in the W4 to W12 ribs and W57 bottom sheeting and
secure it with pieces of sticky tape - it will help you to navigate the aileron
servo cable through later.
◊ Glue the top wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting W56 and W55 in place.
Sand the wing root ush with the W3 rib - the slanted position set with
the root rib dihedral jig ensures the correct wing dihedral. (Fig. 21)
◊ Use a ne razor saw and modeller’s knife blade to cut through the ribs
and trailing edge in order to separate the aileron from the wing. Bevel
the aileron leading edge by 30° following the Det. A-A; nally, sand the
entire aileron smooth using No. 180 sand paper. (Fig. 23+24)
◊ Assemble the other wing half in the same way.
◊ Sand both two wing halves with No. 120 sand paper. Trial t - no glue yet
- the wing halves and the W42 wing joiner; insert the riblets W1 and W2
between the root ribs. Once satised with the t, epoxy the W42 wing
joiner, W1 and W2 riblets to one wing half aligned to match the wing
root rib. (Fig. 25)
◊ Put the wing half with the wing joiner glued in on your workbench (pro-
tected by a sheet of plastic lm) so the alignment pin of the W1 riblet
protrudes over the edge of the table; then epoxy the other wing panel.
Be sure the trailing edges of both wing panels match perfectly. Double
check the correct wing halves alignment and let the epoxy set. (Fig. 26)
◊ Epoxy the wing bolt plate W59 to the top of the wing centre; once the glue
has cured drill 4.2 mm hole for the wing bolt through the W59. (Fig. 26)
◊ Now it is the time to decide which tip of the wing the discus launch pin
is to be glued into - the left tip for a right-handed pilot, the right tip for a
left-handed pilot. Laminate a strip of the breglass cloth around the hole
for the discus launch pin on top and bottom of the wing tip. You can use
a special low-viscosity laminating/nishing epoxy or you can use regular
epoxy glue thinned slightly by an epoxy paint/dope thinner. Once the
resin has cured, sand the entire wing smooth with No. 180 sand paper.
Covering
◊ Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360-400 sandpaper and
carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on lm does not stick well to a
dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released o the sand-
paper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).
◊ Use as light iron-on lm as you can get (transparent KAVAN iron-on lm,
Oracover®, Oralilight® etc. – not supplied in the kit). Follow the instructi-
on manual supplied with the covering lm of your choice please.
Final Assembly
Hinging the Control Surfaces
◊ Use strips of a high quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or stri-
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