Fit rubber sleeves, spaced over fork spring length.
Fit main spring, leather washer and top tube (16).
Fit the tube assembled into the two top members, as far as it will go,
tighten the clamp screw lightly to hold the tube in position.
Fit the draw bolt, well engaged in the tube and pull the tube home.
Firmly tighten the clamp screw to stop the tube from moving and take
away the tool.
Fit damper rod (see 'Changing fork springs') to tap bolt and firmly
tighten. Fill each tube with 6½ ozs. (186 c.c.) SAE 20 oil.
Changing the fork springs. The fork springs can be examined, or ex-
changed, without entirely dismantling the forks. The draw bolt, as illus-
trated, is necessary for this operation.
First detach the front brake cable at the handlebar end.
Take out the two fork tube nuts (49), disconnect damper rods.
Release the two Allen screws (38), clamping the fork tubes.
As the front wheel spindle is attached to the forks, it is obvious that
the fork tubes are extracted simultaneously. To do so, engage the fork
tool in the tube (a fair way down) and drive the tube downwards a small
amount.
Transfer the tool to the other fork tube and treat it likewise,
Repeat the operation, transferring the tool from one tube to the other,
until they are clear as depicted.
To reassemble. Refit the assembly and enter the tubes as far as they will
go. The tubes should be parallel with the covers. Run back the large nut
on the tool and engage it in one of the tubes. Run down the tool nut and
tighten, to pull the tube back a slight amount, thus reversing the method
used for extracting the tubes.
An old engine push rod, with the adjuster cup taken out can be used to
bring up the damper rods. Alternatively, use a loop of copper wire. As-
semble the damper rods to the top anchorage and firmly tighten the lock
nuts. Refit the tube top bolts, firmly retighten the two clamping screws.
1964-1966 Front Forks
Lubrication. Use one of the grades of oil, S.A.E. 20 as shown in the table
of lubricants. The normal oil content is five fluid ozs. (142 c.c). Attention
is only necessary at the first 1,000 miles and again at 10,000 miles when
the oil should be changed by draining. An exploded drawing of the front
forks is shown in Fig. 24 from which it will readily be seen that the fork
springs abut against the filler plugs (34), before removing these plugs
weight must be taken off the front wheel, by placing the machine on its
central stand to avoid the forks collapsing.
To drain the forks. With the machine on the central stand: Unscrew the
two filler plugs (34). Have available a container to catch oil drained, then
remove the drain plug screw (7) with its washer, with the container under
the fork leg. If the wheel is inclined to one side, draining will be more
complete. Deal with the other fork leg in a similar manner.
Filling oil. It will be seen that the air space between the fork spring, and
the inside of the tube is very close; therefore fresh oil must be filled with
79