extreme care, to avoid losses by spilling. Use a measured container for
the correct content of 5ozs. Replace the drain plugs before filling, also
firmly tighten the filler plugs after.
Steering head adjustment. On a new machine the filler plugs (34) should
be checked for tightness due to settling down, check as well the steering
head bearing at the first 100 miles, and then occasionally, as the mileage
increases. Using the machine with movement in these bearings will
damage the races, Movement in these bearings can usually be detected
when the front brake is applied. To check, raise the front wheel well clear
of the ground, with a box under the crankcase. Try to raise or lower the
front wheel with one hand and use the fingers of the other hand encircling
the handle bar lug where it meets the frame, when movement can be felt.
To adjust bearings a thin open ended spanner 1
a" across the flats is
needed. First release the tube clamping stud nut (28), unscrew the stem
nut (37) slightly. Use the thin spanner on the sleeve nut (30) and manipu-
late as necessary. The bearing should be devoid of play with free move-
ment. Retighten the column nut, also the clamping stud nuts,
Steering lock. The lock is pressed into the handle bar lug, and can be
removed by driving it out from underneath. A number is stamped on the
bottom of the lock for key identification.
Dismantling the forks. The forks can be removed as a unit, or the fork
legs can be removed individually. To take out one fork leg remove the
front wheel as described elsewhere. Take off the front mudguard with
stays. Release nut for pinch bolt (28). Remove filler cap plug (34), discon-
nect it from the damper rod, by using two spanners.
The fork inner tube can now be drawn downwards clear of the handle-
bar lug and fork crown. If the tube resists removal fit back the filler plug
without being connected to the damper rod, screw in a few turns, then
give it a few sharp blows with a soft faced mallet to separate the tube
from its taper fixing in the handlebar lug.
To remove the forks as a unit. Follow the instructions given for removing
a, fork leg, as far as disconnecting the filler plugs from the damper rods.
Proceed by taking off the headlamp leaving it suspended by the loom.
Separate the control cables from the levers, and remove handlebars. Re-
move the column nut (37) then give the underside of the handlebar lug
one or two blows with a mallet until it is clear of the fork tubes. At this
stage support the ends of the forks, for after removing the sleeve nut (30)
the forks will drop out. Watch for steel balls for the races, there are 18
in each race (36 in all) if a steering damper is fitted detach the fixed plate
from the frame.
To dismantle a fork slider. Remove from the fork slider the bolt fixing
damper tube (11). Unscrew the bottom cover (23), holes are provided for
a C spanner. Take away the fork slider (5),
The damper tube with the fork spring can be extracted, from the tube.
To dismantle further, take off nut securing fork spring, unscrew the dam-
per tube cap (16) with a tommy bar through the holes in the damper tube,
for if this is held in a vice it will distort and become useless. The damper
assembly sequence is clearly depicted in Fig. 24.
NOTE—When removing the oil seal, sealing washer and flanged bush pass
80
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