24 | P a g e
TROUBLESHOOTING
Common Problems and Solutions
1. “Power” LED not on
Check to make sure 120 / 240 VAC input power is connected to the control. Be sure the
jumpers are set properly. Verify the input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the
fuse may have blown. The board is protected by a 20-amp mini ATO fuse located on the
circuit board above the cell connector.
2. "Generating" LED flashing
The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by
switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The BLH will run at maximum output for
the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.
3. "No Flow" LED solid or flashing
The BLH has sensed a no-flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that
the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the
wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow
switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow
switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow. If the light is flashing, the flow is
established and the BLH will turn on within 1 minute.
4. "Check Salt" LED illuminated or flashing
Check the salt level in the pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart on
page Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level
professionally checked.
5. "High Salt" LED illuminated
Check the salt level in the pool/spa. If the salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining
some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt
concentration is at recommended levels.
6. “Inspect Cell” LED flashing
Inspect and clean cells according to the directions and guidelines. When done, press the
“diagnostic” button for 3 seconds to stop the “Inspect Cell” LED flashing.
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