Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
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Rev D • 6/19/2023 Page - 4 of 4 QF-358
DESTROYED ONE OR TWO CYLINDERS/PISTONS:
1. Check the Bias resistance from the Black/White terminal (wire disconnected) on the Switchbox to engine ground, you should read 13-
15K Ω. Readings above 15K Ω or less than 13K Ω indicate a defective Switchbox. Due to the design of the Switchboxes, a Switchbox
with a defective bias circuit can damage a mating Switchbox (domino effect). REPLACE BOTH SWITCHBOXES AS A SET!!!!
2. Use an ANALOG DVA meter to check the voltage on the White/Black (Bias) terminal. With everything connected, run the engine at
various Rpm’s and monitor the DVA. It should remain steady for a set RPM. Fluctuation in voltage indicates a problem in the Bias
circuit. If there is a problem, disconnect everything on the White/Black terminal except the jumper from the inside Switchbox to the
outside Switchbox. Retest, if the problem persists, replace BOTH Switchboxes. If the problem went away, reconnect the items taken off
of the White/Black terminal one at a time. Re-test after every reconnection until you locate the source of the problem.
ENGINE WILL NOT STOP (KILL):
1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow (or Orange) wire(s) at the Switchbox. Connect a jumper wire to the stop wire from the Switchbox and short
it to engine ground. If this stops the Switchbox from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift
switch. If this does not stop the Switchbox from sparking, replace the Switchbox. Repeat the test as necessary for any additional
Switchboxes.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1. Regardless of whether the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often
due to improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery’s connections. #3 is the Voltage Regulator. #4 is the Stator.
2. The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
3. Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They’re ideal for outboards,
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4. Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Voltage Regulator at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly
after installation.
5. Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Regulator failure(s).
6. If there is no change, try a single (NOT more than one) known good fully charged battery that is 850+ CAA Dual Purpose, or a
cranking/starting battery that is non-maintenance free. Make sure the battery is a lead acid flooded cell battery (has vent caps on its
top).
7. Measure the DVA across the Stator’s Yellow battery charge wire pairs, while connected to the Voltage Regulator. At idle the DVA will
normally between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Voltage Regulator and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50 DVA
at idle. If the voltage is low, the Stator is possibly faulty. Perform a visual of the Stator for browning and varnish dripping. These are
signs that the Stator has overheated. If the visual inspection shows any of these signs, replace the Stator.
TACHOMETER TESTS
1. Measure the DVA across the Stator’s Yellow battery charge wire pairs, while connected to the Voltage Regulator. At idle the DVA will
normally be between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Voltage Regulator and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50
DVA at idle. If the voltage is now within specification, the Voltage Regulator is likely defective.
2. Disconnect the Voltage Regulator’s Gray wire. At 800-1,000 RPM, check the DVA on the Grey wire FROM THE VOLTAGE
REGULATOR measured to engine ground. The reading should be 8 DVA or more. If not, replace the Voltage Regulator.
3. If at least 8 DVA, run a jumper wire from the Grey wire out of the harness to one of the Stator’s Yellow wires.
4. If still no tachometer signal, try a known good tachometer.
5. If still no tachometer signal, replace the Stator.
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