15
English
To set the bevel angle past 45º to 48º, 
  1. Loosen the bevel lock knob (L).
  2. Tilt the saw head slightly to slide the bevel override (Y) to one side.
  3. Move the saw head to 48º.
  4. Tighten the bevel lock knob.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like 
material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute 
to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, 
a sharp (60 tooth carbide tip) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will 
produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it 
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising 
arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece 
of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the 
tape and carefully remove tape when finished. 
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades 
for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw 
Blades under Optional Accessories.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
 
 WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal 
injury, turn tool off and disconnect battery pack before 
making any adjustments, performing any cleaning or 
maintenance, or removing/installing attachments or 
accessories. An accidental start-up can cause injury.
   WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure 
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. 
An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is 
attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut 
that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece 
and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal 
injury may occur.
   WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the 
base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the 
workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other part of the 
work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge 
of the base of the saw.
   WARNING: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and 
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury, if your 
hands are required to be within 100mm (4") of the blade during 
the cut.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by 
hand (irregular shape, etc.), or your hand would be less than 100mm (4") 
from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used. 
Use the material clamp provided with your saw. To purchase a material 
clamp, contact your local retailer or DeWALT service centre.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be 
appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting 
and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry run before making the 
cut. 
TO INSTALL CLAMP (FIG. 13)
  1. With the clamp (AL) facing the back of the mitre saw, insert the clamp 
rod into the hole (U) behind the fence. Ensure the groove at the bottom 
of the clamp rod is fully inserted into the hole (U).
  2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.
  3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp arm up or down, then use the 
fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. 
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO 
CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT 
INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
TO ATTACH THE DUST BAG
  1. Fit the dust bag (AK) to the dust port (N) as shown in Figure 9.
TO EMPTY THE DUST BAG
  1. Remove dust bag (AK) from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust 
bag to empty.
  2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port (N).
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will 
not affect cutting performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection 
efficiency. To restore your saw's dust collection efficiency, depress the spring 
inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap it on the side of the 
trash can or dust receptacle. 
   CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or 
DeWALT dust extractor is in place. Wood dust may create a 
breathing hazard.
Cutting With Your Saw (Fig. 1)
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by 
hand (irregular shape, etc.), or your hand would be less than 100mm (4") 
from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used. Refer to Clamping 
the Workpiece for more information.
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as 
far as possible and the rail lock knob (T) is tightened. This will prevent the 
saw from sliding along its rails as the workpiece is engaged.
NOTE: DO NOT CUT METALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do 
not use any abrasive blades.
NOTE: Refer to Guard Actuation and Visibility in the Adjustments 
section for important information about the lower guard before cutting.
CROSSCUTS
Straight Cut (Fig. 1, 7A, 7B)
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A 
straight crosscut is made with the mitre arm at the zero degree position. 
Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, hold the wood firmly on the table and 
against the fence. With the rail lock knob (T) tightened, turn on the saw by 
squeezing the trigger switch (A).
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm 
smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full 
stop before raising arm. 
When cutting anything larger than a 51mm x 102mm (2" x 4"), use an out-
down-back motion with the rail lock knob (T) loosened. Pull the saw out, 
toward you, lower the saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly 
push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw blade to 
contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward 
you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
   WARNING: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and 
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury, if your 
hands are required to be within 100mm (4") of the blade during 
the cut.
NOTE: The rail lock knob (T) shown in Figure 1 must be loose to allow the 
saw to slide along its rails.
Mitre Cuts (Fig. 10, 11)
Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle other than zero. 
This angle is often 45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from 
zero to 48º left or 48° right. To mitre the saw, loosen the mitre lock knob (E) 
by turning it anticlockwise. Pull up on the mitre lock knob to move the mitre 
arm (G) to the mitre angle desired on the mitre scale (H). Turn the mitre lock 
knob clockwise to tighten. Make the cut as described above. 
When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51mm x 102mm 
(2" x 4") that are shorter in length, always place the longer side against the 
fence (Fig. 11).
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle 
as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the 
pencil line to the cut edge to determine which direction to adjust the mitre 
angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used 
technique.
Bevel Cuts (Fig. 12A, 12B)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at an angle to 
the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob (L), and 
move the saw to the left as desired. Once the desired bevel angle has been 
set, tighten the bevel lock firmly. Bevel angles can be set from 0º right to 48º 
left.