Version 2 11 1 July 2021
The other means of countering the effect of a gust is to ease the sheets for the duration of the gust
and a way of doing this is by a Throttle curve set-up using Switch B – Winch Control. It is
acknowledged that the sheets can be eased manually at any time. But use of SwB might just
make it easier and more consistent.
Also in a gust the apparent wind moves aft and as we have suggested, the impact on heeling-over
and rounding-up can be minimised by easing sheets and increasing velocity. However this is not
the only possible response. Theoretically one could remain close-hauled and benefit from this
velocity lift by sailing a slightly higher course. In a dinghy this is often possible by hiking harder
and thus keeping the hull flat.
The recommended response to a wind gust is to slightly ease sheets although this needs to be
contested.
No recommendation is made regarding taking the velocity lift and I would welcome feedback for
further dissemination.
Rudder Use
If during the starting sequence or when racing in a variable wind, and the boat is above close-
hauled and either stationery or moving slowly, like a dinghy, it is possible that by sculling, she may
be brought down to a close-hauled course. This does not violate RRS 42 Propulsion. See RRS
42.3 (d). That is, if the hull lies above close-hauled on the Port tack, by moving the rudder stick to
the right and releasing so that the spring loading moves it to the centre neutral position, the scull
may force the bow down to close-hauled.
This suggests the rudder End points setting may have to be greater than that required for normal
steering. This cannot be done using SW A in Sport mode. There can only be one set of end
points.
It is essential to have a physical mid rudder reference point on the underside of hull so that before
launching one can determine whether the rudder is physically aligned fore-and-aft. To establish
this neutral rudder reference point, remove rudder and turn the hull upside down. Carefully align a
straight edge between centre of keel and centre of rudder post opening. Using a fine permanent
marker, draw a short line aft of the rudder trailing edge position. This will be a reference for a
neutral rudder.
Assuming a 35 degrees rudder throw say, and using a protractor, mark the position of the trailing
edge of rudder when helm is hard over - both tacks.
If there is any rudder slop, insert a short length of rigging line into the rudder post hole and trim
excess later. Replace rudder and secure after carefully aligning with neutral helm marker. Ensure
rudder moves freely.
Starting a Race
There are fundamentally two ways of starting in a yacht race.
Displacement yachts will usually start their approach coming from distance because their inherent
design and weight means they cannot easily be parked and subsequently accelerated away. The
primary skills are to pick the right lane, at the right end, (consistent with line bias and whether the
right, or middle or left hand side of the course is likely to be favoured) and judge the speed of
advance on distance so that the boat is at speed, in clear air, just behind the line when the gun
goes. Simple.
The start of a dinghy race is usually fundamentally different. In say a quality Laser fleet, once the
position on the line is determined, the boat is “parked” about one boat length back from the line
and held in position by mainsail trim so the leech just catches the wind. This, together with
judicious sculling with the rudder, the dinghy can be parked to not move down the line onto other
boats to leeward. Weather boat keep clear!
The process is; about n seconds from the start, where n will depend on the type of boat and how
well it accelerates, simultaneously quickly sheet-on, hike to keep the boat flat, and as the boat
accelerates, pull-away to close hauled. This procedure is preferred to the keel boat type start
because the need to judge time on distance is minimised.
It is not known which is best for the DF65? Maybe a mixture of both?
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