22 INSTALLATION
Connecting the Water Line
Before Beginning
This water line installation is not covered by the
refrigerator warranty. Follow these instructions
carefully to minimize the risk of expensive water
damage.
If necessary, call a qualified plumber to correct
water hammer before installing the water supply
line to the refrigerator. Water banging in the pipes
(water hammer) in residential plumbing can cause
damage to refrigerator parts and lead to water
leakage or flooding.
• Turn the icemaker OFF if the refrigerator will be
used before the water line is connected.
• Do not install the icemaker tubing in areas
where the ambient temperatures fall below
freezing.
• Connect to potable water supply only.
• To prevent burns and product damage, only
connect the refrigerator water line to a cold
water supply.
• Wear eye protection during installation to
prevent injury.
Water Pressure
You will need a cold water supply.
Water Pressure
• Models with water filter:
- 20 - 120 psi (138 - 827 kPa)
• Where reverse osmosis water filtration
system is connected to a cold water supply:
- 40 - 60 psi minimum to reverse osmosis
system (2.8 kgf/cm
2
- 4.2 kgf/cm
2
, or less than
2 - 3 seconds to fill a cup of 7 oz capacity)
If the water pressure from the reverse osmosis
system is less than 20 psi or 138 kPa or 1.4 kgf/cm
2
(takes more than 4 seconds to fill a cup of 7 oz or
198 cc capacity):
• Check to see if the sediment filter in the reverse
osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if
necessary.
• Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis
system to refill after heavy usage.
• If the water pressure remains low, call a
licensed, qualified plumber.
• All installations must be in accordance with local
plumbing code requirements.
Supplies Needed
• Copper or PEX Tubing, ¼ in. outer diameter, to
connect the refrigerator to the water supply. Be
sure both ends of the tubing are cut square. To
determine how much tubing you need, measure
the distance from the water valve on the back of
the refrigerator to the water supply pipe. Then,
add 8 feet (2.4 m). Be sure there is sufficient
extra tubing (about 8 feet [2.4 m] coiled into 3
turns of about 10 in. [25 cm] diameter) to allow
the refrigerator to move out from the wall after
installation.
• Power drill.
• ½ in. or adjustable wrench.
• Flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers.
• Two ¼ in. outer diameter compression nuts
and 2 ferrules (sleeves) to connect the copper
tubing to the shutoff valve and the refrigerator
water valve.
• If your existing copper water line has a flared
fitting at the end, purchase an adapter (available
at plumbing supply stores) to connect the water
line to the refrigerator OR cut off the flared
fitting with a tube cutter and use a compression
fitting.
• Shutoff valve to connect to the cold water line.
The shutoff valve should have a water inlet with
a minimum inside diameter of 5/32 in. at the
point of connection to the COLD WATER LINE.
Saddle-type shutoff valves are included in many
water supply kits. Before purchasing, make sure
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