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aggressiveness and guiding speed; then both parameters can be fine tuned to
achieve the best possible sync between your SmartGuider and your telescope.
If you notice any significant oscillations about the zero position of one or both
graphs (overcorrection), the guiding speed should be decreased with the mount
drive keypad until the oscillation becomes less important (ideally, almost
negligible). Anyway, it must be noted that a little oscillation across the zero line is
acceptable since both graphs depict the offset between two consecutive
exposures with a 2X scale. So, two pixels on the tracking graph are actually
equivalent to one single pixel on the detector. If the oscillation continues even
with the guiding speed at its lowest possible value, the aggressiveness has to be
decreased.
In case the profile of one or both graphs keeps steadily above or below the zero
value (undercorrection), the guiding speed has to be slowly increased until the
graph profile goes back to hovering around the zero position. If no improvement
is seen even with the guiding speed at its highest value, the aggressiveness must
be increased.
On nights of bad seeing, and especially with long focal length guide scopes, it
could be worthwhile to slightly defocus the guide star, so that the effect of high-
frequency twinkling is mitigated somewhat and the camera won’t try to “guide the
seeing out”.
Should the graphs still be showing a small, jerky oscillation in spite of the above
precautions, please make sure your equipment is properly balanced in both axes.
It must be stressed that a perfect balance of all the weights, the quality and
solidity of all the mechanical supports and adapters is of paramount importance
in getting round stars and well-tracked exposures! Sometimes, trailing due to
differential flexure can ruin your pictures even with appa
rently smooth tracking.
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