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DIAGNOSING PRE-AMP TUBE PROBLEMS:
At some point it is quite possible that you will experience some kind of minor pre-
amp tube noise. Rest assured - this is no cause for alarm and you can take care of the problem yourself in a matter of minutes by
simply swapping tubes. It is always a good idea to keep at least a couple of spare pre-amp tubes on hand at all times to insure unin-
terrupted performance. These minor pre-amp tube problems can take many forms but can generally be described in two categories:
Noise and Microphonics. Noise can be in the form of crackling, sputtering, white noise/hiss and/or hum. Microphonic problems usually
appear in the form of a ringing or high pitched squealing that gets worse as the gain or volume is increased thus are more noticeable
in the higher gain “HI” modes. Microphonic problems are easily identified because the problem is still present even with the instru-
ments’ volume off or unplugged altogether - unlike pick-up feedback which ceases as the instrument is turned down. Microphonic
noise is caused by mechanical vibration and shock: think of banging a microphone around and you’ll understand where the word
came from.
The best way to approach a pre-amp tube problem is to see if it occurs only in one specific mode or channel. This should lead you to
the tube needing replacement. If you cannot narrow down the trouble to a specific mode or channel, the problem may be the small
tube that drives the power tubes which is operational in all modes and channels. Though rare, a problem with the driver tube would
show up in all aspects of performance - so if you can’t narrow the problem down to being mode or channel specific, you may want to
try replacing the driver tube. Driver problems generally show themselves in the form of crackling or hum in all modes of performance
and/or weak overall output from the amplifier.
Sometimes making the diagnosis is more trouble than it’s worth and it’s faster and easier to merely replace the small pre-amp tubes
ONE AT A TIME with a replacement known to be good. But MAKE SURE you keep returning the tubes to their original socket until you
hit the one that cures the problem. You’ll notice that tubes located nearer to the INPUT jack always sound noisier...but this is because
they are at the start of the chain and their noise gets amplified over and over by the tubes that follow. The tube that goes into this
“input socket” (usually labeled V1) needs to be the least noisy of the bunch. The tube that goes at the end of the preamp chain - just
ahead of the power tubes - can be quite noisy without causing any problem at all. The tubes in your amp have already been located
in the most appropriate sockets and this is why you should NEVER pull them all out at once and ALWAYS swap them one at a time.
ALWAYS return a perfectly good tube to its original socket. Also it’s a good idea to put the amp on STANDBY when swapping tubes
to reduce the heat build up in the tubes themselves and to prevent explosive noises (which can still occur even if you are pulling the
tubes away from their sockets gently) from coming through the speaker.
To wrap the chassis, use plenty of tightly wadded up newspaper so there is at least six inches of “crush space” between the chassis
and the cardboard box. Bubble wrap also works well, but please DON’T use styrene peanuts - they will shift during transit and get
lodged inside your electronics as well as allowing your amp to end up at the bottom of the box unprotected and possibly damaged.
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