frames etc, especially in older buildings. It is commonly accepted
that this alone may suffice for appliances below about 5kW
output. It must be a matter for the judgement of the installer as to
whether an extra permanent air vent is required. Where extra air
is needed an Outside Fresh Air Kit is available - to provide correct
combustion air to the stove and a trickle of fresh, pre-heated, air
to the room. An extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance in
the same building, can remove this air.
CHECK THE INSTALLATION !
Whichever method of installation is used, It is imperative that: (1)
The route for gases from the fire to the chimney terminal is
completely air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the
updraught. Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof
rope. (2) It is possible to sweep the entire length- access doors
may be required. (3) The entire construction is of durable fireproof
materials. (4) Fit a CO alarm. Once installed, light the fire,
demonstrate it to the householder, draw their attention to the
warnings and maintanance requirements. Check that:
1) It burns controllably and does not emit fumes to the room
2) The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is
completely airtight, unobstructed and able to be swept.
3) The entire construction is of durable fireproof materials.
4) Test the flue draught (hot), it should be at least 10Pa
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE
Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only
experience will show which are the best settings for you.
LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the
flueways and chimney are completely clear. (1) Empty the
ashpan and move the air slide beneath the door to the right. (2)
Place two or three firelighters close together, or screwed-up
paper covered with very thin, very dry
sticks in the centre of the grate, and light
them. (3) When they are burning well, as
the flames die down, gently add dry fuel.
(4) Don't over-fill (see diagram). To
minimise smoke emission, don't fully
close the door until the fuel is well
alight and flaming with a bright flame.
With wood logs, this normally takes
about 45 seconds. When the fire is
burning well, firmly close the door and
adjust the control.
CHECK FOR SMOKE: Apart from a
little, mostly harmless steam, when cold
and first lit, there should barely be any visible smoke from the
chimney. How to achieve this will depend on the fuel, air control
and the way you use the stove. Check the enclosed Smoke
Leaflet, or download an extra copy
from www.tiny.cc/TigerCub2
CONTROL How fast the fire burns
depends on how much air reaches
the fuel. The stove has just one air
control, below the window Move the
slide to the right for highest output, to
the left for 'low'. The control gets very
hot, so move it only with the handle
supplied. With wood logs, best
combustion, once the fire is hot, is
often with the door control fully 'low'
(left) and heat output adjusted by how often and how much fuel is
added. The best settings for you will be found from experience.
EMPTYING ASHES Stir the fire with a poker. Use the angled
ashpan tool to lift out the ashpan. Remember to let ash cool
before disposing in plastic sacks or dustbins. There is no need to
empty every last speck, but ash from mineral fuels should never
be allowed to build up so that it comes into contact with the
underside of the grate.
EXTENDED BURNING Allow the fire to burn down to a low, hot
firebed. Empty the ash and fully fill with hard fuel such as
anthracite (c30mm size is best). Set the air control to 'low' and
your stove can burn for up to ten hours without attention.
KEEPING THE WINDOW CLEAN Simply operating the stove for
a few minutes at high output will often burn-off any deposits left
by tarry or wet fuels. Severe stains can be removed when cold
with a domestic bleach cleaner. The window is not glass but a
transparent ceramic, it may develop tiny hairline cracks, these are
harmless, and a characteristic of the toughest and most heat-
resistant material known. Reduce the risk of staining by using
only very dry fuel.
OPENING THE DOOR This stove is designed to be operated
only with the door closed. Open the door very slowly to minimise
fume emission and prevent hot fuel falling out. Remember that
the whole stove becomes extremely hot.
SUMMER SHUT DOWN: Before a long period of non-use, empty
fuel and ash, remove the throat plate and leave all the air control
open to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
FUELS
Avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they burn far too violently!
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain areas special rules apply to
reduce smoke nuisance. Check with your local authority.
WOOD only emits as much carbon to the atmosphere as the tree
took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon neutral'
fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water. Burning
such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam and
produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly
damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two
years to become reasonably dry, round logs very much longer.
Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling
away are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white
residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of
cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the
fire until absolutely necessary when using wood.
For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
Split logs lengthways for drying
• Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 200mm
• Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 20% moisture)
• Fill the stove criss-cross, so air can circulate between logs.
• Fill 'little and often'
• When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use only very
small, thin, dry, sticks.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't
expect softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as
hardwood logs.
Other fuels:
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry. BNM peat briquettes are
approved for use in Smokeless Zones in the RoI.
LIGNITE (not smokeless) is a natural mineral, between peat and
coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash
HOUSECOAL or BITUMINOUS COAL (not smokeless) makes
lots of tarry smoke and large volumes of flammable gas which
make it difficult to control and risk explosions. Despite its low
cost, it rarely represents value for money. Don't use housecoal.
ANTHRACITE (Smokeless) is a natural hard, shiny form of coal.
Slow to light, it can burn for very long periods with great heat.
Despite its high price-per-bag it generally works out to be one of
the cheapest of all fuels. Use the 'small nuts' size.
BRIQUETTES Are compressed blocks of fuel, generally able to
burn for long periods and remarkable for their consistency.
Beware! Some 'smokeless' 'ovoids' contain excess sulphur and
will damage your stove. Use only approved products.
PETROLEUM COKE 'Petcoke', 'Longbeach' is made from oil, it
should never be used, it will rapidly degrade interior parts.
HOUSEHOLD WASTES Some plastics give off toxic fumes when
burned and remember that batteries and aerosols explode! The
stove is not an incinerator, so only ever use the recommended
fuels and NEVER use liquid fuels in any form.
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