White 219R - Page 9

12
APPLICATIONS
OF
THE
SMOCKING
STITCH
This
stitch
gives
a
finished
¼
inch
seam
in
one
step.
For
kints,
it
gives
strength
and
elasticity
to
the
seams
and
prevents
the
curling
of
the
fabric
that
often
occurs
with
5/8
inch
opened
seams.
It
is
most
applicable
to
soft,
thin
knits
such
as
nylon
or
acetate
knits,
but
may
be
used
on
other
fabrics
as
well.
Always
make
test
seams
with
this
stitch.
For
woven
fsbric,
the
smocking
stitch
gives
strength
and
prevents
raveling.
It
can
be
used
on
woven
goods
to
replace
flat
felled
or
French
seams.
For
patterns
with
¼
inch
seams:
(Fig
A
)
Place
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
under
the
presser
foot
so
that
as
the
needle
swings
to
the
right,
it
comes
dosvn
at
the
raw
edge.
This
will
result
in
an
enclosed
seam
allowance.
For
patterns
with
5/8
inch
seams:
(Fig,
H
)
The
seam
allowances
may
be
trimmed
to
¼
inch
either
before
or
after
sewing.
If
trimnling
before
sewing,
proceed
as
above.
Otherwise,
sew
the
seam
with
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
on
the
etched
guide
line
“14”.
(Any
time
you
use
the
full
width
of
a
particular
stitch,
you
should
readjust
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
1/8
inch
to
the
left.)
Afterward,
trim
the
excess
fabric
near
the
stitching.
This
method
is
actually
easier
than
the
overedge
method
for
fabrics
that
curl.
Pattenu
151
Length:
5
Width:
5
Feed
Dog:
Pressure:
Nrmai
Foot:
Zigzag
Foot
SEAMS
TWIN
NEEDLES
UPPER
THREADING
AND
SEWING
1.
Be
sure
zigzag
needle
plate
and
presser
foot
are
in
place.
2.
Follow
threading
instructions
for
single
needle
with
these
exceptions:
a.
Place
two
spools
of
thread,
matching
or
contrasting
in
color,
one
on
each
spool
pin.
b.
Lead
both
threads
through
arm
thread
guides.
c.
Bring
threads
down
and
around
tension
discs
with
one
thread
passing
between
the
back
discs
and
the
other
between
the
front
discs.
Now
treat
both
threads
as
one
until
you
reach
the
needle
eye.
d.
Pass
one
thread
through
each
needle
eye
(Gid.
18).
3.
The
maximum
zigzag
stitch
width
that
can
be
sewn
when
using
twin
needle
is
at
the
number
3
setting
of
the
zigzag
width
control.
Any
position
above
the
number
3
position
will
break
the
twin
needle.
4,
Straight
stitching
and
decorative
stitch
designs
can
be
produced
in
the
same
manner
as
for
single
needle
sewing
except
for
the
maximum
zigzag
width.
Fig.
18