ControlOMatic ChlorMaker Operating Instructions

TROUBLESHOOTING
It is always a good idea to revisit the user manual to make sure installation or maintenance steps were not
overlooked before referring to the trouble shooting section.
Red and Green Light on at the Same Time
This is by far the most common problem and is an indication of too much salt. Even if you added the correct
amount and the salt level measures OK, the indication is dependant on water temperature and other minerals in
the water. It is always a good idea to start off low and add more salt after a couple days.
If you contact ControlOMatic with this problem you will be asked for the results of the following tests.
Ÿ Easy First Test
Take the electrode out of the water and turn it on (or press boost) so it starts making chlorine, if the lights still
turn green/red then there is a problem and it isn’t the water.
Second Test – The Bucket Test
Fill a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 with spa water and 1/3 with fresh water. Turn the unit off and leave in the bucket for 5
minutes to adjust to the temperature. Turn it on and see if the lights are blue when making chlorine, if they are
then remove 1/3 of the spa water and replace with fresh water. If not try again but fill the bucket ½ with spa
water and ½ with fresh water and try again.
Power Supply Test
There is a slight chance it is the power supply, if you have a voltmeter measure the DC voltage and it should be
around 5.5 Vdc. If it is higher, like 8 then that would cause the problem and the supply is bad.
Disconnect Electrode Test
The problem is either the circuit board or the electrode. Open the control box and disconnect one of the two
wires to the electrode so the electrode is now disconnected. Turn the unit on and when it starts making chlorine
if the problem goes away then it is the electrode, if the problem doesn’t go away it is the circuit.
If after performing these tests the led’s remain red and green then there may be a short in your saltwater system
so please contact us.
Plates Need Cleaning - White Calcium Deposits
Ÿ If there is a white calcium buildup between the titanium plates, this will interfere with the chlorine production.
Disconnect the power before cleaning. Soak the cell in a mild acid (white vinegar or pH down) for 10 to 30
minutes and rinse in clean water. Repeat until the white deposits are gone
Ÿ The electrode can also be removed from cell housing for cleaning using a suitable wrench if not hand tight.
RED Lights While Making Chlorine
Ÿ Salt level low: Add salt. Before adding salt it is a good idea to measure the salt level first
Ÿ Check the cell for white calcium buildup and if present clean the plates
Ÿ Plates damaged: Unit needs to be replaced. The plates will last 7000 to 10000 hours of chlorine production
and the ChlorMaker may be at the end of its life. Note: The lower the power level you can operate on, the
longer the ChlorMaker will last
Consistently Low Chlorine
Ÿ Power level too low: Increase the power level
Ÿ Low salt level: Adjust the salt level as necessary. The ChlorMaker will make less chlorine with a lower salt
level
Ÿ Plates need cleaning: See above
Ÿ High bather load: Additional chlorine or shock may be needed
Ÿ Very high salt level: The RED and GREEN lights may be on indicating a very high salt level. When this
happens the ChlorMaker shuts down and will stop making chlorine to protect the power supply. Drain out
some of the water and refill with fresh water to lower the salt level. Cycle power or press the boost button to
start a production cycle to test again.

ControlOMatic ChlorMaker Specifications

General

Brand	ControlOMatic
Model	ChlorMaker
Category	Water Filtration Systems
Language	English