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English
FLUSH-TO CUTTING (FIG. 10)
The compact design of the saw motor housing and spindle housing
permits extremely close cutting to floors, corners and other difficult
areas.
POCKET/PLUNGE CUTTING – WOOD ONLY (FIG. 11)
The initial step in pocket cutting is to measure the surface area to be
cut and mark clearly with a pencil, chalk or scriber. Use the appropriate
blade for the application. The blade should be longer than 3-1/2"
(89 mm) and should extend past the shoe and the thickness of the
workpiece during the cut. Insert blade in blade clamp.
Next, tip the saw backward until the back edge of the shoe is resting
on the work surface and the blade clears the work surface (position 1,
Fig.11). Now switch motor on, and allow saw to come up to speed.
Grip saw firmly with both hands and begin a slow, deliberate upward
swing with the handle of the saw, keeping the bottom of the shoe
firmly in contact with the workpiece (position 2, Fig. 11). Blade will
begin to feed into material. Always be sure blade is completely through
material before continuing with pocket cut.
NOTE: In areas where blade visibility is limited, use the edge of the
saw shoe as a guide. Lines for any given cut should be extended
beyond edge of cut to be made.
FIG. 10
FIG. 11
1. STARTING POSITION FOR POCKET
CUTTING
2. ROCK TOOL UP TO NORMAL CUTTING
POSITION AFTER BLADE HAS CUT
THROUGH MATERIAL.
METAL CUTTING (FIG. 12)
Your saw has different
FIG. 12
metal cutting capacities
depending upon type of
blade used and the metal
to be cut. Use a finer
blade for ferrous metals
and a coarse blade for
non-ferrous materials. In
thin gauge sheet metals it
is best to clamp wood to
both sides of sheet. This
will insure a clean cut
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