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CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1" (25.4 mm) THICK BY 3-5/8" – 6-3/4" (91 X 
173mm) WIDE 1" (25.4 mm) VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
  •  Position molding as shown in Figure 17
  •  All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
INSIDE CORNER: OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side Left side *
  1. Position molding with bottom of molding 
against the base of the saw
  1. Position molding with bottom of 
molding against the base of the saw
 2.  Miter left 45°   2. Miter right 45°
  3. Save left side of cut   3. Save left side of cut
Right side Right side
  1. Position molding with top of the molding 
resting on the base of the saw
  1. Position molding with bottom of the 
molding against the base of the saw
  2. Miter left 45°   2.  Miter left 45°
  3. Save the right side of cut   3. Save the right side of cut
*  NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the end of the molding: 
cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4 mm) longer than your final length then make 
the miter cut as described above.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1.8" (45 mm) THICK BY UP TO 7-11/16" 
(195.6mm) WIDE LAYING FLAT AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE
  •  All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
  •  All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as shown in Figure 19.
FIG. 19
INSIDE CORNER: OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side Left side
  1. Position molding with top of molding 
against the fence
  1. Position molding with bottom of the 
molding against the fence
  2. Save left side of cut   2. Save right side of cut
INSIDE CORNER: OUTSIDE CORNER:
Right side Right side
  1. Position molding with bottom of the 
molding against the fence
  1. Position molding with top of molding 
against the fence
  2. Save left side of cut   2. Save right side of cut
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. 
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added 
together, equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section 
that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against 
the wall) of38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.62° left for cutting crown molding 
at the proper angle and bevel stop pawl at 33.85° left. There is also a mark on the bevel scale 
at 33.85°.
The Bevel Setting/Type of Cut chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. 
(The numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately 
set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine 
tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING THE 
COMPOUND FEATURES
  1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (Fig. 20).
FIG. 20
FENCE
TABLE
CROWN MOLDING FLAT ON TABLE AND 
AGAINST FENCE 
  2. The settings below are for All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.
BEVEL SETTING TYPE OF CUT
33.85°
LEFT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
  1. Top of molding against fence
  2. Miter table set right 31.62°
  3. Save left end of cut
33.85°
RIGHT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
  1. Bottom of molding against fence
  2. Miter table set left 31.62°
  3. Save left end of cut