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alternator side of the alternator shunt (ASHA). Connecting it here insures a stable voltage
with little voltage drop to supply the alternator field power. The 10 Amp fuse shown should
be installed to protect the wiring.
If an isolator is used in the system this wire must be connected to the output side
of the isolator.
GND WIRE BLACK: The BLACK GND wire is the power ground. It is shown
connected to the alternator ground.
ASHB WIRE GRN: The GREEN ASHB (Alternator SHunt Battery side) must be
terminated on the small screw on the Battery side of the Alternator shunt. This wire must
be connected exactly as shown.. Since this wire is at battery voltage it should be protected
with a fuse
at the shunt as shown; install the fuse after the wiring is connected. No other
wires should be connected here.
ASHA WIRE YEL: The YELLOW ASHA (Alternator SHunt Alternator side) must be
terminated on the small screw on the alternator side of the Alternator shunt. This wire
should be connected exactly as described to ensure proper operation. Since this wire
is at battery voltage it should be protected with a fuse
at the shunt as shown; install the fuse
after the wiring is connected. No other wires should be connected here.
FINAL TEST AND START UP
Do this test with the engine OFF!
This is the final checkout. Carefully plug the 8 conductor phone cord (the larger of
the two phone cords) into the Monitor Terminal Board and the Regulator Output Module.
Check the Battery Amps scale, you should see the same low number as in progress check
#2. The green ON LED on the Output Module must be off.
Now we want to simulate the engine running, so turn on the regulator by turning the
key switch to the on position, or if an oil pressure switch is used, jumper together its two
terminals. For this test only we want to supply voltage to the REG ON terminal while the
engine is off. The green ON LED should be on. The red Charge Cycle Status light on the
Link 2000-R front panel should also be on. The red CHG LED on the Output Module,
which indicates that field voltage is being supplied, should gradually increase in brightness
during the next 30 seconds.
To verify that current is actually flowing into the alternator field use the LINK 2000-
R to check the number of amps flowing from which ever battery has been selected by the
main battery switch. You should see -3 to -5 amps of current flowing. This current is being
supplied to the alternator field, and perhaps to other instrumentation that is also turned
on with the key switch if you are not using an oil pressure switch . To verify that it is the
alternator field consuming the current, turn off the power to the REG ON terminal and
disconnect the FIELD (or REG OUT) wire from the alternator field. Repeat the test. The
current should now be about 2 to 4 amps less than it was. This test assures you that the
regulator is supplying the field current. Another easy way to test if the field is energized
is to check the magnetism of the rotor by touching the end of the shaft with a screwdriver.
Do it with the regulator turned on, and with it turned off, there should be a noticeable
difference.
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