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If you cannot pass this test do not start the engine!
See the Trouble Shooting Flow Chart.
It is now time to start up the engine and see how everything works. For this test
make sure the battery charger or any other
sources are turned off. Partially discharge
the batteries (remove at least 20% of the capacity, it may take a few hours at a relativity
high discharge rate). Start the engine and watch the battery voltage to see that it levels off
at about 14.4 volts in the Acceptance Cycle. With the default values, when the battery current
falls to about 4 amps ( 2% of the battery capacity) the regulator will shift into the Float Cycle
and maintain the batteries at the Float voltage. Also check the alternator current by pressing the
TIME button and using a millivolt meter to measure the voltage drop across the alternator shunt
and comparing it to the reading on the LINK 2000-R. The millivolt reading multiplied by ten
should about equal the LINK 2000-R reading . The alternator current measurement is inherently
more inaccurate than the battery current measurement you may expect up to
+ 3 amps error.
STANDBY REGULATORS
Part of Heart Interface and Cruising Equipment’s power system design
philosophy is to consider spares and backup systems before they are needed. We have
designed the Ideal Regulator with this in mind. In our previous manuals we have shown
a wiring diagram that shows how to wire a standby regulator and a switch to choose between
the LINK 2000-R and a standby regulator. With the Ideal Regulator Output Module this
is no longer necessary since its wiring harness is compatible with standard P-Field external
regulators. Now you simply carry a spare regulator that is plug compatible and just unplug
the Ideal Regulator Module and plug in your standby regulator. You may us a simple,
adjustable, constant voltage regulator or we would suggest that you consider the Heart
Incharge Regulator (Alpha Regulator from Cruising Equipment) which provides three stage
charging, plug compatibility, and it is fully adjustable.
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