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low

any

bends or curves

at all. Check also that

the servo

plate

exactly

horizontal

in the fuselage.

Caution:

The

guide

channel

must

not

be compressed,

other-

wise the servo slide

will not be removable.

Roughen

up the inside of the

fuselage where the

guide

rail as-

sembly

fits, and spot-glue

it in

place

with s-minute

epoxy. Be

sure to check

that the servo

plate

does

not obstruct the cabin

Irame. When the

glue

has

set,

remove the wings and servo

slide

and apply a

fillet

of slow

setting epoxy to secure

the

plate.

Compression

strut

In an abrupt

landing, the wings will tend to swing

forward and

crush the

fuselage between the

leading

edges,

and the remov-

able compression

strut

avoids

this danger. Cut an 8

dia-

meter hole in both

root fairings where marked. lt is best to drill

the

hole outto 7 mm diameter in stages, and

then to lile it out ca-

refully until the strut

a light

fit, otherwise there

good

chance that

you

will lose the strut on the trip to the

flying site. Cut

the compression

strut to

length,

and check

that it lies exactly

flush with the outside surface ofthe

rootfairings.lt

mustnot

pro-

ject

on either side.

Canopy

The fit of the canopy is one of the crucial

factors in the overall

impression

which

model aircraft makes, and

for

this

reason

strongly

recommend taking

particular

care

at this stage.

Take

your

time

the effort will be worthwhile.

Place

the cabin

frame on the fuselage, and check

that the fit is

exactly

righU it should be 1

smaller than the cabin

flange all

round. Tape the frame on the

fuselage. Drill

the 3.5

mm diameter

hole where marked in the front of the cabin

frame,

and

the

diameter

hole at the rear. Hold the drill at the

angle shown, and

drill through the

frame

and the

fuselage together. Insert the rivet

thefront

holeto check for fit, then remove the cabin

lrame and

glue

the rivet to the

frame.

Drill out the

rear hole in the tuselage to 5 mm diameter,

and

check

that the latch body 7 fits in the

hole.

Cut

a slot

(about

mm x'10 mm) in the fuselage for the actuating

pin;

use a 2 mm

diameter drill

at first, then open out the slot using a small

needle

file.

Hold

the latch in

position

and check that the

actuating

can

be operated. Roughen up the

latch body and the inside of

the

fuselage, and apply a drop ol oil to the

at either end. The

latch is fixed in the

luselage

using s-minute

epoxy.

When the

glue

has set, check

that the latch stillworks, then apply

a fillet of

slow- setting

epoxy,

preferably

thickened

as before, to secure

permanently.

Leave the

fuselage inverted while the resin cures.

Retract the

latch

and

sand

the front face of the

latch

body

flush

with

the GRP

tuselage flange. Check that the cabin

frame

fits accurately, and

that the latch closes easily.

Trim the rear

hole in the cabin

frame if necessary.

Fit

the cabin

frame on the

fuselage and lock it in

position.

Check

thatit

issmallerthanthecanopyflange

byabout

1 mmall round.

Sand the

flange

to lhe

correct angle. Cut outthe canopy

5 along

the

marked line.The idealtoolisthe curved scissors

in the

MUL-

TIPLEX accessory

range. Trim the edge ol the canopy

until it is a

perfect

fit. lf

you

wish to

paint

the cabin

lrame, this is

your

last

chance to do so.

To avoid soiling

the fuselage, apply a coat ot

release agent

wax

or similar

material around the canopy

flange. lt can easily be

po-

lished

off again

when

the

job

is finished.

Position the canopy

frame on the

luselage

and

lock it in

place

with the

latch. Place the canopy over

the frame and

position

accurately.

Mark

line across canopy and

fuselage at front and

rear along the centre

seam using a

water

soluble

lelt

tip

pen.

Clean

the canopy and cabin

frame.

An excellent adhesive

for fixing the canopy to the

frame is clear

contact

cement. Apply a bead

of cement to the edge

of the

frame only. lt

essential

to work rapidly, as the

contact

glue

must

not

allowed to dry otf

in the normal way.

Place the canopy on

the frame, lining up the

felt-tip marks.

Fix

the canopy

place

with strips oI

tape, and carefully

wipe ex-

cess

glue

onto the

fuselage

side.

The contact cement

can now

be left overnight

to harden. This

is not the usual method of using

this

adhesive, but

it is ideallor our

purpose.

The

procedure

gua-

rantees a

perfect

joint

between canopy and cabin

frame.

When the

glue

has set hard

(at

least 12 hours), carefully

prise

the canopy

away

trom

the

fuselage, sliding a sharp

knife bet-

ween them

if necessary. Press the canopy

moulding onto the

't6

cabin

frame allround.

Wipe

otf

the felt- tip

marks.

Checkthe

ca-

nopy for fit, and carry out

any final trimming

required.

The canopy latch actuating

can now be cut

down carefully to

a minimum

length,

that it is less conspicuous.

Aero

tow coupling

A simple and

reliable aero

tow coupling can

be installed asfol-

lows: file out a vertical slot about

2 x

mm in the

right

hand fu-

selage

side as

lar forward as

possible.

Drill the hole with a

1.5 mm drill

lirst, then file it out to shape.

Bend the

plastic

guide

tube 26 and steel

pushrod

37 to

match

the curvature of

the fuselage between the slot

and the servo.

Solder

a clevis to the end ol

the steel rod, slip the

rod into the

tube, and connect the clevis

to the servo output arm, as close

the

pivot

axis

possible.

When the servo output arm

is at neutral, the end ofthe steel

rod

should be

visible in the slot. Cut the steel

rod to length, and de-

burr the

cut end.

Roughen up the

guide

tube and the

luselage

side,

and epoxy the

tube in olace.

with the rod central

the slot.

Use scrap

wood

strips to

hold the

guide

tube against the

fuselage while the

glue

sets. Check

that the system works

reliably.

Tie

loop into the end of the tow cord,

and fit the

loop into the

slot. lt is retained by

the wire

pushrod.

Tailplane

Squeeze

flat one end of the

pivot

tubes

(53

front and 54

rear),

using

pair

pliers;

this

prevents

the

pivot

dowels

22 and

penetrating

into the foam. Cut the

pivot

tube

spacer strips

l6, r.

and 18 to length, and

arrange them

the

machined slots

shown in the drawing.

To ensure that

the tailplane

panels

are correctly

aligned

with

each other,

place

the two

panels

on a

flat

board

with the slots

up, and

weight them down

with

the

pivot

dowels litting exactly

the

slots. Check carefully

that the sections of the

two

panels

are

exactly

in line.

Apply strips of tape on the

tailplane skins along

the edge of the

machined slots, to

keep

glue

from the surface.

The

pivot

tubes

must

installed spaced correctly

to match the all-moving

crank.

The

crank

is supplied

with a

setting

jig

help

you

here. Fit the

pivot

dowels

mm diameter

front,2 mm diameter

rear) through the appropriate

holes

the

jig,

and fit the

pivot

tubes onto the ends.

Now

glue

the tubes and the

corresponding

spacer strips

into the tailplane

panels.

Caution: the

pivot

tubes

must not be

glued

to the dowels.

Posi-

tion the

pivot

tubes sothatthey

project

by about3

atthe

tail-

plane

root.

When the

glue

has

set

hard, sand back

the underside of

the

spacer

strips

flush with the

panel

skin.

Take care

not

sand

into the skin itself. Use

sanding

block about

300

x 19 mm,

with 8o-grit

glasspaper

glued

onto

one face. Cut

the leadi

edge

13 to length and

glue

it to the

panel,

using strips of tape

hold it in

place.

Plane it to the

profile

shown

in the sectional

dra-

wings, and sand to

final

shape.

Sand off the ends

of the

leading

edge, checking

that the

faces

are

flat and true.

Drill the holes

in the root ribs 15

where marked

mm diameter

front, 3 mm diameter

rear), and

glue

them

to the tailplane

pa-

nels. Sand back

the root rib

flush with the tailplane skins,

and

sand the oivot

tube ends

flush.

Cut the

tips 14 to length,

glue

them to the

panels,

and sand

them

back

flush. Round ott the edges

as shown. Sand

down the trail-

ing edge to

an even thickness of

no more than

1mm.

Drill through the

pivot

holes in the

fin

using

a 4 mm diameter

drill,

drilling from both sides.

Roughen up

one end of the steel

rod 48,

slip a clevis

40 onto it, and bend

the

final 2 mm ol the

pushrod

right angles. Slide

the clevis back as

far as it will

go,

and solder

tothe

rod,taking careto

produce

asoundioint.

Connectthe

cle-

vistothe bottom hole

inthecrank, and slidethe

pushrod

intothe

upper bowden cable

outer

from

the

rear.

Position the crank so

that the

pivot

tube can be

threaiied through

it from the outside.

Cut

the

pivot

tube

to length, roughen

up the ends

and fit

through the

fuselage, threading the crank

onto it on the

inside.

Cutting

the curved

rear slot is a simple

job,

using a 2

drill

a cutter,

with

the

aid of the tront

pivot

dowel and the alignment

jig.

Fit

the

pivot

dowels

and

23,

and

plug

in the tailplane

pa-

nels. Check that

they are accurately

aligned: the tailplane

musl

be exactly

at right-angles

to the fin. Check

that the system

works

correctly:

the rear

pivot

dowel

must

not rub on the

Brand	Multiplex
Model	Alpina magic
Category	Toy
Language	English

Multiplex Alpina magic User Manual

Questions and Answers:

Multiplex Alpina magic Specifications

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