22 Stitches & sewing techniques
Flatlock sewing
A fl atlock stitch is made by sewing the seam and pulling the fabric apart to fl atten the seam. The fl atlock stitch
can be used both as a decorative construction stitch, sewing two pieces together (Standard fl atlock stitch), or for
embellishment on only one piece of fabric (Ornamental fl atlock stitch).
There are two ways to sew a fl atlock stitch. Either with the wrong sides of the fabric together to create a decorative
look, or with the right sides together, to create a ladder stitch.
Standard fl atlock stitch
• Use the left or the right needle.
• For 2-thread fl atlock: Engage the 2-thread converter
(see page 10). Thread the lower looper and the left (A)
or right (B) needle.
For 3-thread fl atlock: Thread the lower and upper
looper and the left (A) or right (B) needle.
• Set the ATD to E for 2-thread fl atlock and to F for
3-thread fl atlock.
• Place the wrong sides of the two pieces of fabric
together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of
the garment.
• Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric. The needle
thread will form a V on the underside of the fabric. The
lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the
fabric edge.
• Unfold the fabric and pull on opposite sides of the
seam to pull the stitches fl at.
Ornamental fl atlock stitch
• Place the movable upper cutter in the B position (see
page 9). The fabric should not be trimmed on this
stitch.
• Follow steps 1-3 above.
• Fold the fabric piece, wrong sides together, to sew a
decorative stitch from the right side of the garment (at
the fold).
• Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the
stitch extending off the fabric.
• Unfold the fabric and pull on opposite sides of the
stitch to fl atten.
Tip: The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the
fl atlock stitch. Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and
regular threads in the lower looper and needle.
Ladder stitch
To create a ladder stitch, sew with right sides of the fabric
together. The needle thread will be the prominent thread
that creates the ladder.
Standard fl atlock stitch Ornamental fl atlock stitch
3-thread ladder stitch