To Next PageTo Next Page
Need help?Do you have a question about the REDSHIFT ShockStop and is the answer not in the manual?
Instructions for installing or removing the inner spring to adjust suspension stiffness.
Details on seatpost compatibility with various frame diameters and required shim usage.
Critical safety warnings regarding installation, use, and potential hazards of the seatpost.
Guidance on adjusting preload for desired suspension sag and firmness using visual cues.
Step-by-step instructions for securely installing the seatpost into the bicycle's seat tube.
Details Redshift Sports LLC's two-year warranty terms and conditions for the seatpost.
Recommendations for maintaining the seatpost, including lubrication advice for optimal performance.
The Redshift ShockStop Suspension Seatpost is a bicycle component designed to enhance riding comfort and performance by providing tunable suspension. It is specifically engineered for bicycle frames with a 27.2mm circular seat tube, though it can be used with larger diameter seat tubes by employing an appropriate diameter shim at least 100mm (4 inches) in length.
The core function of the ShockStop Seatpost is to absorb road vibrations and impacts, thereby reducing rider fatigue and improving control. This is achieved through an internal suspension mechanism that utilizes springs and a linkage system. The seatpost's suspension is fully adjustable to suit individual rider weight and preference, allowing for a customized riding experience.
The seatpost's suspension stiffness can be adjusted in two primary ways: by changing the internal springs and by adjusting the preload plug.
Spring Selection: The seatpost comes with two springs: an outer spring (pre-installed) and an inner spring (included in the package). The outer spring must always be installed. The inner spring can be optionally added to achieve a stiffer spring rate, which is often desired by heavier riders or those preferring a firmer suspension feel. The process involves removing the seatpost from the frame, unscrewing the preload plug, and then tilting the seatpost to slide out the internal components (spring spacer, springs, and spring end caps). The inner spring is then inserted inside the outer spring, and the components are reinstalled in the correct order, ensuring the protective material around the outer spring is oriented towards the top of the seatpost and the spring end caps sit flat against the spring. Grease should be applied to the outside of the outer spring and spring end caps if needed during reinstallation.
Preload Adjustment: Fine-tuning of the suspension stiffness is accomplished by adjusting the preload plug located at the bottom of the seatpost. Turning the preload plug further into the seatpost increases stiffness, while unscrewing it softens the suspension. This adjustment can be made by hand or, for additional leverage, by inserting a 4mm hex wrench through the side holes in the plug. It's crucial not to set the preload adjustment below the "1" mark, as this can cause internal parts to loosen or fall out during riding. The firmest setting is achieved when the preload plug is turned all the way in.
A general guideline for setting the preload is to adjust it so that the suspension mechanism moves down approximately 6mm (20%) from the top of its travel range when the rider is in a neutral riding position. This 20% sag point can be visually determined by removing the fender and observing the linkage pivot shaft from the side. The preload should be set so that the end of the silver pivot shaft is barely (but completely) hidden from view when seated. Another method is the "bounce test": while riding on flat ground, raising up off the saddle and then sitting down with some force to bounce the suspension. If it's easy to reach the full range of travel and a noticeable "bottom-out" is felt, the preload should be increased.
Before installation, it's recommended to measure and record the existing saddle height, fore-aft position, and tilt angle for future reference. The existing seatpost and saddle should be removed, and the inside of the bicycle's seat tube cleaned and greased (unless it's a carbon frame and specified otherwise by the manufacturer). The ShockStop Seatpost is then inserted into the seat tube to the desired height, ensuring the minimum insertion line is not visible above the frame's seatpost clamp. The seatpost clamp bolt should be tightened according to the bicycle manufacturer's torque specification.
Saddle installation involves loosening the saddle clamp bolts with a 4mm hex wrench until the threads are barely engaged in the nuts, then installing the saddle between the upper and lower clamp. The lower clamp should be positioned with the longer rail supports toward the back of the saddle. If installing the seatpost fender, the rear saddle clamp bolt must be completely removed, the fender o-ring looped around the bolt under the upper saddle clamp, and the bolt reinstalled. The front and rear clamp bolts are then lightly tightened to hold the saddle in place. The saddle's fore-aft position is adjusted within the clamp.
Saddle angle adjustment is achieved by tightening or loosening the front or rear saddle clamp bolts. Once the desired angle is set, both bolts are alternately tightened in quarter-turn increments using a torque wrench for the front bolt and a standard hex wrench for the rear bolt. The front bolt should reach 6 N-m of torque, not exceeding 9 N-m. It is crucial to avoid over-tightening saddle clamp bolts, as this can lead to seatpost failure. When tightening the rear bolt (tilting rearward), the upper saddle clamp must not contact the rear portion of the linkage mechanism. When tightening the front bolt (tilting forward), there must be a gap of at least 2mm between the upper saddle clamp and the upper linkage. Finally, the fender is installed against the rear linkage by placing its magnet on the front saddle clamp bolt, and saddle height is adjusted if necessary.
The ShockStop Seatpost is designed for quiet and smooth operation with minimal maintenance. Users are advised to periodically clean and inspect all surfaces for hairline cracks or signs of damage. Any detected cracks or damage necessitate immediate cessation of use and contact with Redshift Sports customer service.
It is important not to use grease or any lubrication on the pivot bushings, as they are designed to run dry and will perform better and last longer without lubricant.
General| Type | Suspension Stem |
|---|---|
| Travel | Up to 20mm |
| Handlebar Clamp Diameter | 31.8mm |
| Length Options | 80mm, 90mm, 100mm, 110mm, 120mm |
| Use | Road, Gravel, Commuting |
| Suspension Travel | 20mm |
| Steerer Tube Diameter | 1-1/8 inches |
| Angle | 6 degrees |
| Compatibility | Compatible with standard 1-1/8" steerer tubes |
| Diameter | 31.8mm (handlebar clamp) |
| Material | 6061 T6 Aluminum |
