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the fuse over the plan, squaring up the formers and pinning
the assembly in place as you proceed. Be sure the front and
rear ends are aligned and that the fuse is not twisted.
❍ 5. Once satisfied that the fuse is trued up, wick some thin
CA into all of the fuse side and former joints.
❍ 6. Glue the shaped balsa tail post between the fuse sides,
flush with the rear end of the fuse sides. Check that the tail
post is vertical with a drafting triangle before the glue cures.
❍ 7. Cut and install 3/32" x 3" cross-grain sheeting to the top
of the fuse from F2 to the stab saddle. After sanding the
sheeting flush with the top edge of the fuse, remove the fuse
from the building surface, then realign and pin it back over
the plans, upside down.
❍ 8. Cut two 18" pieces from the 36" outer pushrod tube.
Sand the outside of the tubes to create a better surface for
gluing, then slide the tubes through the holes in the formers
and out through the pushrod exits at the rear of the fuse.
Glue the tubes to the formers and exit slots with medium CA.
❍ 9. Cut the rear hatch rail from 1/4" x 1/4" basswood leftover
from a main spar. Glue it in position into the notches in the
fuse doubler at F3. Cut two side hatch rails from 1/4" x 1/4" x
7-1/8" from an 18" basswood stick. Glue them in position to the
inside of the fuse. Cut the front hatch rail (to match the plans)
from 1/4" x 1/4" basswood leftover from a main spar. Glue it in
position.
❍ 10. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the 1/8" birch ply landing
gear plate into the notches ahead of F2 and to the forward
edge of F2. Wipe off any excess epoxy before it cures with a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
❍ 11. Use CA to glue the die-cut 1/8" ply forward fuse bottom
in position. Hold the fuse sides in tight contact while the CA
cures.
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