Viking 2780 - Page 23

Sewing
knit and
stretch
fabrics
These
types
of
fabric
account
for
well
over
50%
of
all
garments
made.
Common
to
all
of
them
is
that they
stretch
and therefore
require
an
elastic
seam,
such as
the
elastic
straightstitch,
knit stitch
or
the
elastic
blind hem,
all
available
on
your
sewing
machine.
The
most suitable
stitches
to
use
when assembling
a
knitted
fabric
garment
are
the
elastic
straightstitch
or
the
knit stitch.
Elastic
straightstitch
is
used
when
you
want seam allowances
pressed
open.
The
knit
stitch
sews
the
parts
together
and
finishes
the seam
allowance
in
one
operation.
Here a
fine
and
proper
needle
(70—80)
is
needed.
Elastic
straightstitch
Use fine
thread,
preferable
embroidery
cotton
or
synth.
thread.
After
selecting
the
elastic
straightstitch
it is
possible
to
make
slight
adjustments
to
the
stitchlengths.
In
case
the
fabric
is
very
elastic,
the
upper
thread
tension
can be
loosened
somewhat
for
knits
with a
higher
degree
of
stretch.
-
Helpful
hint: Baste
the
seams
with ordinary
straightstitch,
stitchlength
4
and
thread
the
same
color
as
the
fabric.
When you
have
tried on
the
garment,
you
can
‘fill in
the
seams
with an
elastic
straight
seam.
It
is
not
necessary
to
remove
the basting
thread
if
you
sew
exactly
along
the
basted
seam.
You can
use the
elastic
straightstitch
for
decorative
top
stitching
as
well. It
may
be
desirable
to
loosen
the
upper
thread
tension
a
little.
For
sharper
creases
in
trousers
etc.
in
doble
knits
you
can sew
them with a
twin needle
using elastic
straightstitch.
Use
the
raised
seam
presser
foot
and
the
gimp guide,
but
do
not
use a
gimp
thread.
Sew the
trouser
creases
before
joining
the
side and
inner
leg
seams.
Elastic
Triple
ric-rac
Top
stitching
straightstitch
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