- Anticlockwise: smaller cutting depth
- Clockwise: larger cutting depth
After each new adjustment it is advisable to carry out a trial
cut in order to check the set dimensions.
Setting the angle (Fig. 14)
With the table saw you can make diagonal cuts to the left
oriented to the stop bar from 0 ° to 45 °.
m Check before each cut, that between the stop bar (34),
cross-stop (17) and the saw blade (5) a collision is not
possible.
• Undo the fixing handle (13).
• Set the desired angle on the scale by pressing and turning
the hand wheel (12).
• Lock the fixing handle (13) again in the required angle
position.
Working with the rip fence
Setting the stop height (figs. 15-16)
• The stop rail (27) of the rip fence (15) has two guide
surfaces with different heights.
• Depending on the thickness of the material to be cut, the
stop rail (27) as shown in fig. 16 must be used for thick
material (about 25 mm workpiece thickness) and that
shown in fig. 15 for thin material (less than 25 mm
workpiece thickness).
Turning the stop rail (figs. 15-16)
• Loosen the wing nuts (28) first for rotating the stop rail
(27).
• Now, the stop rail (27) can be removed from the guide rail
(29) and pushed over it again using the corresponding
guide.
• Tighten the wing nuts (28) again.
• The stop rail (27) can be applied to the left or right of the
guide rail (29) as needed. To this end, only install the bolts
from the other side of the guide rail (29).
Setting the cutting width (fig. 17)
• The rip fence (15) must be used for longitudinal cutting of
wood parts.
• The rip fence (15) should be mounted on the right side of
the saw blade (3).
• Set the rip fence (15) on top of the guide rail for rip fence
(14).
• On the guide rail for rip fence (14), there are 2 scales
which indicate the distance between the rip fence (15) and
the saw blade (3).
• Do not push the stop rail (34) too far towards the saw blade.
• The distance between the stop rail (34) and saw blade (3)
should be about 2 cm.
Operation
Working instructions
After each new adjustment it is advisable to carry out a trial
cut in order to check the set dimensions. After switching on
the saw, wait for the blade to reach its maximum speed of
rotation before commencing with the cut.
Secure long workpieces against falling off at the end of the
cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.)
Take extra care when starting the cut!
Never use the equipment without the suction function.
Regularly check and clean the suction channels.
Suitability of the saw blades:
-- 24 teeth: soft materials, large chip depth, coarse cut profile
- 48 teeth: hard materials, small chip depth, fine cut profile
Making longitudinal cuts (Figure 19)
Longitudinal cutting (also known as slitting) is when you use
the saw to cut along the grain of the wood.
Press one edge of the workpiece against the parallel stop
(15) while the flat side lies on the saw table (1). The blade
guard (4) must always be lowered over the workpiece.
When you make a longitudinal cut, never adopt a working
position that is in line with the cutting direction.
• Set the parallel stop (15) in accordance with the workpiece
height and the desired width. (See 9.4)
• Switch on the saw.
• Place your hands (with fingers closed) flat on the workpiece
and push the workpiece along the parallel stop (15) and into
the blade (3).
• Guide at the side with your left or right hand (depending on
the position of the parallel stop) only as far as the front edge
of the saw blade guard (4).
• Always push the workpiece through to the end of the splitter
(6).
• The offcut piece remains on the saw table (1) until the blade
(3) is back in its position of rest.
• Secure long workpieces against falling off at the end of the
cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.) (e.g. roller table etc.)
Cutting narrow workpieces (Fig. 20)
Be sure to use a push stick (9) when making longitudinal cuts
in workpieces smaller than 120 mm in width. A push block is
supplied with the saw! Replace a worn or damaged push
stick immediately.
• Adjust the parallel stop to the width of workpiece you
require. (see 9.4)
• Feed in the workpiece with two hands. Always use the
push stick (9) in the area of the saw blade.
• Always push the workpiece through to the end of the
splitter.
Caution! With short workpieces, use the push stick from the
beginning.
Making angular cuts (Fig. 21)
Angular cuts must always be made using the parallel stop
(15).
• Set the blade to the desired angle. (See 9.3)
• Set the parallel stop (15) in accordance with the workpiece
width and height (see 9.4)
• Carry out the cut in accordance with the workpiece width
(see 10.1).
Making cross cuts (Fig. 22)
table and adjust to the required angle. (see 9.5). If you also want
to tilt the blade (3), use the groove (31a) which prevents your
hand and the cross stop from making contact with the blade
guard.
• Use the stop rail.
• Press the workpiece firmly against the cross stop (7).
• Switch on the saw.
• Push the cross stop (7) and the workpiece toward the blade in
order to make the cut.
• Important:
Always hold the guided part of the workpiece. Never hold
the part which is to be cut off.
• Push the cross stop (7) forward until the workpiece is cut all the
way through.
• Switch off the saw again. Do not remove the offcut until the
blade has stopped rotating.
Cutting particle boards
To prevent the cutting edges from cracking when working with
particle boards, you should not set the saw blade (3) more than
5mm greater than the thickness of the workpiece (also see 9.2).
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