DEEP SCRATCHES AND FLAWS: (exposed fiberglass) Thoroughly clean the
damaged area with acetone to remove dirt, grease, or wax. Tape-off the
area around the flaw with masking tape. Thicken a small amount of
matching gelcoat with talcum powder or cabosil to obtain a putty-like
consistency. When ready to apply the putty, thoroughly mix a small
amount of hardener into the gel putty. A tablespoon quantity of gel
putty will require ONE DROP of hardener to cure into a hard plastic in
mild temperatures. Some experimenting will allow you to adjust the
amount of hardener to suit your needs. Over-catalyzing results in a
rubber-like substance never permitting a complete cure.
Apply the gel putty with a putty knife, filling the flaw slightly above
the surrounding surface. Allow to harden. Sand and buff as previously
mentioned for shallow scratches. Clean up hands and tools with acetone
before putty hardens.
CAUTION: The clear hardener should be handled with great care. Flush
skin or eyes with large amounts of water if contact is made with it.
Be careful when discarding uncured, mixed gelcoat material. Once
hardener is added, a chemical reaction takes place that generates heat.
Large quantities can become VERY hot. Submerge material in water until
cured for maximum safety.
NON-SKID IMPERFECTIONS: Repair of the non-skid is similar to that of
deep imperfections only that you add trace amounts of non-skid grit and
stipple the gelcoat on with the end of a brush.
GELCOAT BLISTERS: Below the water line it is possible for water to
get beneath the gelcoat and cause it to blister. This occurrence is
rare and usually takes the form of small blisters less than 1/4" in
diameter. While we try to use the latest materials and techniques in
combating this phenomenon, it is not within our ability to guarantee
this never happening due to the very nature of the materials used. If
you should find yourself with a serious case of "measles," contact the
factory for the latest recommended repair practices and advice. The
successful repair is difficult and time consuming and the services of an
expert repair facility is advised. To minimize the potential of
blisters ever forming on your bottom, this advice is offered. Never
sand your bottom gel coat off. Do not use pumice stones or a coarse
sandpaper when preparing your bottom for new bottom paint. This could
deeply scratch the gel coat surface which would increase the chance for
water passing into the laminate. Gelcoat is a water proof barrier
coating required to protect your boat's laminate, not merely a cosmetic
coating. The continued use of any epoxy based bottom paint, which is in
standard at CDY, is recommended.
BOTTOM PAINT, BOOT TOP PAINT
Your Cape Dory was painted with anti-fouling paint before it left the
factory. The area under the cradle poppets and keel supports may require
additional painting prior to launching. These areas should be well
sanded with 120 grit paper and washed with solvent to remove wax prior
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