7) Reassemble the components in the reverse order to
that described for removal, taking care to remake the
To replace the 12V DC heater or the IIOV AC heater,
gas connections soundly, and not forgetting to refit
proceed as described below:
the flue baffle.
1. Remove the refrigerator out of the recess as
described in item “2E”.
8) Reinstall the refrigerator in its recess. Connect the
gas and electrical supplies, and check for gas leaks.
Light the burner and check the appearance of the
flame to ensure that it is predominantly blue (when
the thermostat is at “MAX”), then leave the
refrigerator on “test” for at least an hour.
2. Remove the boiler insulation cover (D in FIG. 12) and
remove the boiler insulation (E in FIG. 12).
3. Disconnect the faulty heater (F in FIG. 12) from the
terminals and remove it from the metal pocket on the
boiler.
4. Check that the new heater is of the correct type and
voltage and fit it in the boiler tube pocket in the same
way as the original was fitted.
5. Fit the boiler insulation round the boiler tube and re-
place the boiler insulation cover.
F. Replacing of ignition system
If the flame cannot be lit because no sparks are
produced bv oushina the olunaer. olease check:
I .
Y I “II
If the connection cable between the piezo igniter (E in
6. Connect the heater leads to the terminal block and
FIG. 8) and the electrode (I in FIG. 11) is not defective
switch as before and re- install the refrigerator. Check
or loose. If it is broken or if the insulation of the wire is
for gas leaks and test the fridge for satisfactory
defective, replace the connection cable.
operation.
If the piezo igniter has to be replaced, remove the
ignition cable and pull out the defective igniter (E in
3. TROUBLESHOOTING
FIG. 8) by unscrewing the nut under the metal- plate
that holds the controls. Put in the new piezo igniter, fix
If the refrigerator fails to work, check the following points
it by screwing on the nut. Re- connect the ignition
before calling a service technician:
I I
caore.
.
If the electrode (I in FIG. 11) is defective, screw out
the burner as described in item 22b. Carefully loosen
the metal plate (G in FIG 11) by loosing srew (F) and
take qut the defective electrode. Put the ignition cable
on the new electrode and fix the metal plate (G).
Check, that the thermocouple (H) and the electrode
are in the original position
!
G Replacing of thermocouple
. .
The tip of the thermbcouple senses the flame. To replace
the thermocouple proceed ,as follows:
1. Disconnect the thermocouple connection at the flame
safety failure device (D in FIG. 8).
2. Remove the faulty thermocouple out of the burner and
put in a new one usig the description above for
changing the spark- electrode, step “F”.
3. Carefully tighten the thermocouple connection to the
falme safety failure device. Tighten it “finger- tight”
plus 114 turn. The plug must be properly tightened to
the safety device to ensure good contact.
Do not overtighten!
H. Lubrication
No lubrication is required to any part of the refrigerator or
gas controls.
I. Electric equipment
Before eventually replacing one of the electric heaters,
please check all the items of “3. TROUBLESHOOTING”.
If the fridge does not operate in one of the possible elec-
trical modes because a fuse is blown, examine the
supply wiring, cut- out relay (if installed) and repair any
faulty components or wires before fitting a new fuse and
reconnecting.
If current is available to the fridge (evt. measured with an
electricaltest- meter at the input- clamps) and the coolin-
gunit at the back does not heat up after being “on” for at
least half an hour, this indicates that the heater has an
open circuit and needs replaced by a new one. (If an
electrical test- meter is available, the two heater leads
can be disconnected and the heater tested for
continuity).
A. Instructions for STARTING THE REFRIGERATOR,
Section C, have been followed.
B. The refrigerator is level.
C. If it is possible to start the refrigerator on any of the
connected sources of energy.
D. If the refrigerator fails to work on GAS, check:
1)
That the gas bottle is not empty.
2) That all LP Gas valves in the supply line to the
refrigerator are open.
NOTE: The following checks should be performed
only by a qualified technician.
3) That sparks are generated by the piezo ignitor.
4)
That the flame continues to burn after releasing
the knob of the flame failure device (D, in FIG.8).
If not, the thermocouple may be loose or
defective.
E. If the refrigerator fails to work DC, check:
1) That the DC supply is connected to the
refrigerator.
2) That the fuse on the DC supply is intact.
3) That the DC switch is set to the “ON” position
(A, in FIG. 8).
F. If the refrigerator fails to work on AC, check:
1)
That the AC supply is connected to the
refrigerator.
2) That the fuse on the AC supply is intact.
3) That the AC switch is set to the “ON” position.
4) That the AC thermostat is not set to the “0”
position.
G. If the refrigerator is not cold enough it may be
because:
1) The ventilation is inadequate because of
reduced area of the ventilation passages
(partial blockage of grilles from wire mesh, etc.).
2)
The evaporator is frosted up.
3) The temperature control setting is incorrect.
4) The gas pressure is incorrect. Check the
pressure regulator.
5) The ambient temperature is too high.
6) Too much warm food is loaded at one time.
7)
The door is not properly closed or the magnetic
sealing strip is defective.
12
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