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4. To remove the driver have someone reach into the port and push upward on the woofer until you can reach
around its edge. Pull it away from the unit and allow it to rest on its magnet on the front of the baffle while
you remove the two wires. To free the wires press on the red and black buttons.
5. Place the woofer on the baffle adjacent to the opening allowing it to rest on its magnet. Re-attach the wires,
making sure the red wire goes to the red terminal and black to black. Don’t mix wires between the two twisted
pairs that come from the rear connector as this may cause problems with your amplifiers.
6. Carefully place the woofer into position. Align the holes in the woofer basket with those in the baffle by
reaching in through the port and rotating the speaker by grabbing the magnet.
7. Insert the eight 1/4-20 machine screws and tighten them evenly. Be careful not to puncture the woofer cone
during this process.
8. Using a 1.5 V or 9V battery, or a polarity checker, verify the polarity of each woofer. Positive voltage to pin 1+
or pin 2+ should cause the cone to move outward.
9. Carefully replace the grille, lining up the screws with their holes. Be careful not to puncture the woofer cone
with the grille screws. Gently engage all of the screws, making certain all screws are threaded before you
tighten them. The flatness of the grille is determined by the tightening of the its mounting screws. Don’t
tighten any one screw all the way before tightening the others. The face of the grille should be flat and flush
with the outer flange of the baffle. Tighten all of the grille screws a little at a time, as evenly as possible. Avoid
catching and tearing the foam on the inside of the grille. It may help to press the grille against the baffle with
one hand to keep the rubber spacer from turning as you tighten each screw.
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