26 27
model no. 055-6761-2 | contact us 1-800-689-9928
• When the saw reaches full speed, slowly push the switch handle down, cutting through the leading
edge of the workpiece.
• Slowly move the switch handle toward the fence, completing the cut.
• Release the trigger and allow the blade to stop spinning before raising the cutting head and removing
the workpiece.
SETTING CUTTING DEPTH (Fig. 24)
The depth of cut can be preset for even and repetitive
shallow cuts.
• Slide the stop plate (1) towards the front position.
• Loosen the lock nut (2) to free the lock knob (3), turn
the stop knob until the cutting head down until the
teeth of the blade are at the desired depth.
• While holding the upper arm in that position, tighten
the lock nut to secured the stop knob.
• Recheck the blade depth by moving the cutting head
front to back through the full motion of typical cut
along the control arm.
CUTTING GROOVES (Fig. 25)
• Mark lines to identify the width and depth of the
desired cut on the workpiece and put the workpiece
on the table and aim the inside tip of the blade at the
line. Use a work clamp to secure the workpiece on the
table.
• Lower the cutting head so the tip of the blade touches
the top surface of the workpiece at the marked line.
• While holding the upper arm in position, loosen the
lock nut and turn the stop knob until it touches the
stop plate, then retighten the lock nut. (SEE “SETTING
CUTTING DEPTH”)
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION!
To reduce the risk of injury, return carriage to the full rear position after each crosscut operation.
CAUTION!
Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and
personal injury.
1
2
3
• Cut two parallel grooves as shown.
• Use a wood chisel or make multiple passes with a
router to remove the material between the two outside
grooves to create the groove.
CUTTING WARPED MATERIAL (Fig. 26)
When cutting warped material, be sure that the convex side
is against the fence. If the workpiece is placed with the
concave side facing the fence, it will pinch the blade near
the completion of the cutting.
AUXILIARY WOOD FENCE (Fig. 27)
When making multiple or repetitive cuts that result in
cut-off pieces of 1” (2.5 cm) or less, it is possible for the
saw blade to catch the cut-off piece and throw it out of the
saw or into the blade guard and housing, possibly causing
damage or injury. To minimize this, an auxiliary wood fence
can be mounted to your saw. Holes are provided in the
saw fence to attach an auxiliary wood fence (this provides
additional depth of cut). This fence should be constructed
of straight auxiliary wood approximately 3/4” (1.9 cm) thick
by 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) high by 16” (40.6 cm) long. Attach the
wood fence securely and make a full depth cut to make a
blade slot. Check for interference between the wood fence
and the lower blade guard. Adjust if necessary.
CUTTING BASE MOULDING (Fig. 28)
Base mouldings and many other mouldings can be cut
on a compound mitre saw. The setup of the saw depends
on moulding characteristics and applications, as shown.
Perform practice cuts on scrap material to achieve best
results:
• Always make sure mouldings rest firmly against
the fence and table. Use hold-down or C-clamps,
whenever possible, and place tape on the area being clamped to avoid marks.
• Reduce splintering by taping the cut area prior to making cut. Mark cut line directly on the tape.
• Splintering typically happens due to wrong blade application and thinness of the material.
WARNING!
DO NOT USE A DADO BLADE, use only the standard saw blade for this operation.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Fence
Mitre saw table
Workpiece
Mitre at 45°
Bevel at 0°
Fence
Mitre saw table
Mitre at 0°
Bevel at 45°
Workpiece
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